XR propshaft?
#1
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XR propshaft?
Is the new XR propshaft larger than the Bravo1? will my Bravo1 props fit the new XR shaft?
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Raypanic, Yes the prop shaft is bigger. I guess that's part of what makes it stronger. I'm not sure but I think all of the internal parts are bigger. Maybe someone else can shed some light on this. AND yes, you will have to buy new props. I am doing just that with my boat. I am putting on a whipple and wanted something stronger, so hopefully I won't grenade the drive. I need a new prop anyway with the whipple so no big deal. I think I will keep the Bravo for a backup, (not sure yet). I hope this helps!
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Clarification
The XZ and XR are identical except for the upper gears. The propaganda tells you the XR gears are a little better. An interesting note though is that "Goodfella" at Dollar is reporting the factory class racers he's involved with are seeing better life out of the XZ gears. This may be due to the Helical gears sliding action serving to "pump" more lube in where the teeth are meeting but that is pure speculation on my part.
These drives each use a 1.25" lower shaft vs the standard 1" and have a superior brg assy holding it all in place.
Most important- Your standard Bravo props can be used- you simply change the hub adapter with a new piece.
They say that one weakness of the standard shaft is high x's where the prop is surfacing, this loads only the blades which are in the water and puts a bending moment on the propshaft which compounds the normal torsional abuse we give it. Fatigue sets in and eventually the shaft breaks just in front of the prop and your Bravo one and 1/2 a prop shaft just became an artificial reef. One of our board members experienced this last season with stock HP500's on his 28 Daytona. Good luck!
These drives each use a 1.25" lower shaft vs the standard 1" and have a superior brg assy holding it all in place.
Most important- Your standard Bravo props can be used- you simply change the hub adapter with a new piece.
They say that one weakness of the standard shaft is high x's where the prop is surfacing, this loads only the blades which are in the water and puts a bending moment on the propshaft which compounds the normal torsional abuse we give it. Fatigue sets in and eventually the shaft breaks just in front of the prop and your Bravo one and 1/2 a prop shaft just became an artificial reef. One of our board members experienced this last season with stock HP500's on his 28 Daytona. Good luck!
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"seeing better life out of the XZ gears"
Wow didn't expect to see that. Now I am really confused. Thanks for the info I really appreciate it. It means if I do go with XR or XZ the two 32P Bravo1's I bought won't go to waste.
Wow didn't expect to see that. Now I am really confused. Thanks for the info I really appreciate it. It means if I do go with XR or XZ the two 32P Bravo1's I bought won't go to waste.
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Go with the IMCO SC, save yourself some money, and gain reliability. These drives are each assembled by the same few professionals, not on an assembly line. The complete drive with polished lower is about 8,500.00. Check with the guys at Total Marine 985-649-9888, as their prices and service are better than the rest. Jassman, AT 37' swears by them.
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Cattitude; Thanks for clearing up that prop thing. I didn't know that you could buy a new hub and use the same prop. This will help make prop testing a lot easier for me, since almost everyone around here are running Bravo's. Off to the prop tread
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New 28" Bravo
28E- thanks for reminding me- I've got to run an ad on a stock 28 B1 that I bought new and ran for 10 hrs last yr. Good luck dialing your boat in!
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