Fogging fuel injected big blocks for winterization
 

Can you fill the fuel water separator with 2 cycle oil and run the engine to fog it. If so how much 2 cycle do you put in the separator. Also can you drain the motors with the drain on the bottom(blue plastic wing nut plug), will this drain the whole motor including exhaust and water pump impeller housing then pour in antifreeze through the thermostat to fill block. Will this work and be safe like they are saying in this last issue of Powerboat?

We use a cocktail of 2 cycle oil, Mystery Oil and Sea Foam in the separator until the white smoke starts coming out of the exhaust.

As far as winterizing the blocks, Merc recommends simply draining. I dont know whick engines you have but most have drains on the blocks, coolers and the exhaust.

I prefer to drain it complete and then i fire it up on -100 glycol and then I drain it again...call me anal I guess!

Did mine this weekend.....Stabilized the remaining 10 gallons of fuel in the tank (no fogging oil). Ran it on the hose til at operating temp. Shut it down and drained it, then re-fired it on antifreeze. Then drained it again and removed the seawater pumps so new ones can be installed in the spring (or re-use these since they look good). this waws done right after I changed the oil and filters too.

I have the 6.2's, they have the drains on exhaust and thermostat housing and then one low one with the block plugs running to it.

Do they have drains on the coolers too?

No ....smart .....:drink:

Isn't it better to leave the antifreeze in the system, assuming it has corrosion inhibitors in it?

I drain the water first then fire it up on the antifreeze and leave it in for the corrosion inhibitors. And when its first fired in the spring I like the idea that the antifreeze is slippery for the sea water impeller to start turning in after sitting for a while.

That's why I remove the seawater pump for the winter...leaving the impeller sitting outside of the housing during the winter allows it to last alot longer than normal.

I've always used the water separator as the insertion point for fogging. I will drain out half the fuel and add a couple ozs of 2-cycle oil, fire up until smoking then shut down and replace the filter. However after burning a hole in the piston last year at the beginning of the season I have added sea foam to the mix as kirk has sudjested.

After reading this thread, this was what I did Tuesday night.
First I hooked up all the hoses from draining the water out last Sunday. Then I ran 3 gal of anti-freeze through using a bucket and hose.
Third I pulled off the fuel filter, dumped some gas out and filled it with 2 stroke oil. Then I ran 2 more gal of anti-freeze through as the 2 stroke oil hopefully "fogged the engine".
Last I changed the oil and fired it one last time until the oil pressure registered.
In the past I had sprayed fog through the throttle body but I guess that is not the best thing to do.
Thanks for the help...:cool:

I've never fogged an engine in my boat before. It sits inside, what does it hurt not to fog it?

P.S. Granted most of the time it's already blown up from the season, LOL...

The fogging oil coats the internal surfaces of the engine ... valves, seats, combustion chambers, and rings. It helps prevent rust from moisture in the air and "sweating" that happen during temperature variations.

I have fogged my engines for years but never thru the fuel filter. I simply take of the air cleaner, rev the engine to about 2000 and spray the fogging oil into the throttle body until the engine starts bogging down, then I shut it off. I have never had any problems...at least none that I know of. Is this method adequate or am I doing harm to my engine??

There is concern of clogging up the sensors in the intake if you have EFI. Probably fine tho. Certainly fine with a carb.

When I fogged mine that way I could never get it to bog down, I ve even tried spraying 2 cans at the same time into the intake and it didn't bog. I too have been told that this messes up the O2 sensor. I think I might try the 2 cycle oil in the separator this weekend.

Mine didn't bog down with either method.
I think you mean the MAP sensor.
The 2 stroke oil in the filter was easier for me.

Mercruiser has a special way that they want all of the E.F.I. motors done. In a portable 6 gallon gas tank 64 oz of merc 2 stroke oil 12 oz of fuel conditioner concentrate and 12 oz of fogging oil mixed with 5 gallons of regular gas. Unplug fuel supply from the engine plug in 6 gallon tank and run engine @ 1200-1500 rps for 15 min. shut down and drain all water out of engine and block and all coolers. This will procetect all the fuel system componets(high pressure fuel pumps injectors and regulators) and the internal engine parts as well