Puder,

Lift all the purple wires off the positive of the coil and attach them to the red wire of the MSD. Lift all the grey wires off the negative of the coil and attach them to the white wire of the MSD. Connect the orange wire of the MSD to the coil Positive and the black wire of the MSD to the negative of the coil. These should be the only wires on the coil. Then there are two heavier gauge wires, red and black, comming out of the MSD. They go to the battery and the additional magnetic pickup pigtail from the MSD is not used.

Now you will still have the same advance curve as before, but instead of the ignition module pulling down on the negative of the coil and inductively storing energy and releasing to the secondary, the MSD will internally charge a capacitor to 400v and apply it to the coil when the spark is needed. This will result in more energy and more voltage to the plug.

I have two sets of those cams for sale cheep if any one is intersted.

Brad's right, I have a MSD 6AL with the Tbolt IV and this is how it's wired. Iknow its a 6AL, but tell me how my motor notices the diffrence?

if i wanted more power what woudl be teh "next step up" in cams? I hav enever selected a new before so this is new teritory...

ANy help and input would be appreciated.

FYI the engeine started at a 330hp gen IV 7.4 so i have teh cast crank and such. Would a hotter cam and teh blowe rbe TOO much? I figure i would be safe with the sc525 cam becasue merc used a similar setup but used a tame cam for reliabilty. Input please!!!!

I was also thinkign abotu adding roller rockers. Now i have teh stock stamped rockers. With the sc525 cam would I have to use them? If i don't HAVE to use them woudl it be a good idea or worth soem HP if i did?

Puder, the roller rockers are a very good idea. The blower is to small to support more camshaft, stay with the 525SC selection. You will likely only see idle improvements with the MSD amplifier, typically engines of your combination don't benefit from the amplifier. The coil upgrade is always a good idea.

thanks for the quick replies.

Bruce maybe you can help me out with carb setup too. I have been told mydom 1050 is too big for this setup. I think it might be. I didn;t get much test time last season but when it ran i saw very little performance gain. Even afetr an hour (at most) my new plugs were already funky and looked pretty fouled.

I bought the blower and carb from a member here who had it on a 454 mag and said it (carb) was referenced to the blower. I still think i am runnign SUPER rich. If i was runngin very rich I would assume my performance woudl begreatly hindered BUT would running very rich also cause very high exhuast? I am runngin CMIs with water jackts and such. But i have custom tailpipes. Last season they were setup fully dru with no H2O mix at all and no water jacket on the pipe from eth headers to the tips. BUT at one point they got so hot they were glowing (at night). Woudl runngin rich cause this? A buddy of mien though if i was blowing unburt fuel out of my heads that mayeb it was burning in the pipes and causing the heat. (just his theory).

In any event. what would be the proper setup for this carb? I was thiknkign i might run it on a dyno but i wanted to get it close before going to a dyno. Oh yeah right now it has teh stock cam and large performance oval heads.

Thanks,
puder

Puder,
Bruce did a complete go over on my 1050 Dominator. Boost referenced it as well. It is a totally different animal now. Runs and idles great! The carb work alone has been the best money I spent on my boat since I bought it a few yrs ago.

Puder, I remember your custom exhaust tailpipe story, it truely brought tears to my eyes with the description of glowing red pipes and single wall tubing. The dominator is a good selection for your blower application, the 525SC uses it. That said the dominator series should be tuned by someone that at a minimum, knows what air bleeds, emulsion tubes, squirter nozzles and throttle blades have in common. If you don't know what these components do, don't screw with your carburetor, it will likely get worse. Most shops that dyno engines will calibrate the carburetor as part of the dyno process. Ask around, there are many good shops in your area. I'd suggest you have your engine dynoed, they can correct your carburetor issues at the same time. DanL can give you some unbiased input on dyno facilities, he has probably used them all at one time or another.

I've got to type faster!! I start my reply and two people have posted before I'm through. US1 Beekboat, THANKS for the kind words. We still on to dyno your monster Tuesday? All is now well in dyno repair world, it will be re-calibrated on Monday.

Bruce,
Yes, planned on Tue from your message. I will call you Mon while at work to double check that your up and running.
Thanks
Jerry