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Water in oil with pics
So I just uncover my boat and fired it up and runs 100%! I drain the oil and it looks milky. Iam replacing the stock manifolds/risers with lighting headers and pulling the stock intake for a better alum intake. So I pulled the risers off and sure enought water laying in the exhaust runners. I pulled the manifolds and the water residue in about 3 exhaust ports. I pulled the intake manifold and the gaskets looked ok but the lifter valley has milky oil laying in it. Pulled the valve covers and some of the push rods, guide plates, etc are rusty. Now my question is is it possible the water mixed with the oil from just the leaking manifolds/risers or should I pull the heads and check the head gaskets and chech the heads for cracks?
Remember this motor ran 100% and never missed a beat. Oil that I drained out http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p...8366551889.jpg The worst exhaust port on the manifold http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p...8366530004.jpg http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p...8366381961.jpg http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p...8366353685.jpg http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p...8366337766.jpg |
Run a comp. check. If the numbers look good pickel the engine with diesel fuel and cross your fingers. Water came in from the exhaust however it looks like it has been there since last season.
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Originally Posted by Westcoast
(Post 2831895)
Run a comp. check. If the numbers look good pickel the engine with diesel fuel and cross your fingers. Water came in from the exhaust however it looks like it has been there since last season.
Iam really thinking of slaping on a new intake and the headers and flushing the heck out the engine and pray its not a head gasket, head or even a cracked block. Erik |
I agree, the water has been in that engine for a while. At least since the last few runs of last season. The rusty push rods are evidence that the engine has had water in for a long time. The clean spots on the push rods, by the guide plates are evidence that the engine has been run with water in it. If it were just a case of water getting in the oil over winter lay up, the pushrods would not have shinny spots where they pass through the guides. Very possible that the water entered from a faulty manifold or riser. Water can easily pass through the rings and end up in the pan. What are those things that are wrapped around the lower part of the valve springs?
As was said, you may get away with a flush but that depends on how much rust got into the critical engine parts, like the bearings. They may be prematurely worn out from the debris in the oil. My opinion is that a complete tear down is the prudent choice. PS>>> Didnt you change the oil before winter lay up? |
Originally Posted by crapr6
(Post 2831908)
I know it deffinaly had water coming in from the manifolds/risers but will that be enought to case milky oil? I mean the water would have to be going thru the exhaust port pass the exh valve and then bypassing the piston rings to get to the oil.
Iam really thinking of slaping on a new intake and the headers and flushing the heck out the engine and pray its not a head gasket, head or even a cracked block. Erik |
pull the engine check for cracks ? with all that rust you are gamdling (at a minimum rings & bearings pushrods oilpump v alve job) PS Ihave a real niceshort block Icould sill you:drink:
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Originally Posted by Vinny P
(Post 2831910)
I agree, the water has been in that engine for a while. At least since the last few runs of last season. The rusty push rods are evidence that the engine has had water in for a long time. The clean spots on the push rods, by the guide plates are evidence that the engine has been run with water in it. If it were just a case of water getting in the oil over winter lay up, the pushrods would not have shinny spots where they pass through the guides. Very possible that the water entered from a faulty manifold or riser. Water can easily pass through the rings and end up in the pan. What are those things that are wrapped around the lower part of the valve springs?
As was said, you may get away with a flush but that depends on how much rust got into the critical engine parts, like the bearings. They may be prematurely worn out from the debris in the oil. My opinion is that a complete tear down is the prudent choice. PS>>> Didnt you change the oil before winter lay up? I never changed out the oil since it was fresh oil before I winterized it but like you said it must of been in there for a while since the push rods have rust on them. |
it looks to me like the problem has existed for a long time,id almost bet it is from a cracked exhaust manifold.i doubt the head gasgets are bad.install the headers&new intake manifold,fill the engine with new oil&filter,run it for 30 minutes[but not hard]change oil&filter,and keep your fingers crossed.if it is in your budget,pull engine,tear down&inspect all internal parts,replace parts as necessary.good luck.
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 2831937)
it looks to me like the problem has existed for a long time,id almost bet it is from a cracked exhaust manifold.i doubt the head gasgets are bad.install the headers&new intake manifold,fill the engine with new oil&filter,run it for 30 minutes[but not hard]change oil&filter,and keep your fingers crossed.if it is in your budget,pull engine,tear down&inspect all internal parts,replace parts as necessary.good luck.
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With oil that looked like that I would recomend a rebuild. I am not a machinist but that could not have been good on the bearings. If you spin a rod or main during the season you could be down for a while and cost a lot more money.
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