260 sonic porpising
#11
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,356
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From: NW Michigan
That is a very good point that I missed also. Definately do the wight thing also. Balancing a boat is important. Plus be sure and get your best buddy up front and lock the cabin door. Been there before. Make sure you at least get him out in 3 to 4's for a few minutes anyway.
#12
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,439
Likes: 93
From: yorkville,il
That is a very good point that I missed also. Definately do the wight thing also. Balancing a boat is important. Plus be sure and get your best buddy up front and lock the cabin door. Been there before. Make sure you at least get him out in 3 to 4's for a few minutes anyway. 

#14
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 22
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From: langhorne pa
#15
Whoah! Lots of chefs in the kitchen!!
Here's my recipe though!
You can try these different setups mentioned above. Some may help. Some my hurt. I wouldn't bother with a 3 blade on that boat.
I had a 1999 with an HP500EFI and ran a labbed 24B1 prop.
The notched transom is the root cause of the issue. The design of the notch is to fool the prop into thinking its on an extension box to put the prop in cleaner water for more bite and performance. However, its a finely balanced double edge sword.
As you get the boat up on plane, it naturally wants to continue to bow lift itself out of the water with the more thrust you put into the prop. As the boat continues to "rock/lift" back to the end of the hull and lift the bow, the running surface runs out of hull. This is where the notch would have been. Essentially, the boat "falls" "off plane" sorta, to where the hull right in front of the notch begins to hold the boat up again. This cycle of stretching out and then "falling" becomes known as a porpoise.
Some Sonics, depending on setup, trim, prop, fuel load, passenger loading, drive height, driver style--will porpoise; at times. The 28 was known for bad issues with this, as was some of the 35s/358s. The big boats like the 386 and up don't have this issue, but you will find it on a few of the smaller (26/28) hulls, on particular boats--depending on who monkeyed with the setup over the years trying to squeak that last .00000257881789 mph out of it.
My advice; take it or leave it:
Tuck the drive a bit. Many folks run with WAY too much trim, especially on a straight bottom boat.
Lower the tabs until the trailing edge is even with the bottom of the boat. Get extended tabs if you can to give the boat some more "hull" to run on. If you have the Bennett tabs, the extended tabs swap right in place of the 12" long ones. www.bennetttrimtabs.com
Also, you can talk to Brett at BBlades. He knows his stuff.
As does Julie and team at Throttle-Up.
Here's my recipe though!
You can try these different setups mentioned above. Some may help. Some my hurt. I wouldn't bother with a 3 blade on that boat.
I had a 1999 with an HP500EFI and ran a labbed 24B1 prop.
The notched transom is the root cause of the issue. The design of the notch is to fool the prop into thinking its on an extension box to put the prop in cleaner water for more bite and performance. However, its a finely balanced double edge sword.
As you get the boat up on plane, it naturally wants to continue to bow lift itself out of the water with the more thrust you put into the prop. As the boat continues to "rock/lift" back to the end of the hull and lift the bow, the running surface runs out of hull. This is where the notch would have been. Essentially, the boat "falls" "off plane" sorta, to where the hull right in front of the notch begins to hold the boat up again. This cycle of stretching out and then "falling" becomes known as a porpoise.
Some Sonics, depending on setup, trim, prop, fuel load, passenger loading, drive height, driver style--will porpoise; at times. The 28 was known for bad issues with this, as was some of the 35s/358s. The big boats like the 386 and up don't have this issue, but you will find it on a few of the smaller (26/28) hulls, on particular boats--depending on who monkeyed with the setup over the years trying to squeak that last .00000257881789 mph out of it.
My advice; take it or leave it:
Tuck the drive a bit. Many folks run with WAY too much trim, especially on a straight bottom boat.
Lower the tabs until the trailing edge is even with the bottom of the boat. Get extended tabs if you can to give the boat some more "hull" to run on. If you have the Bennett tabs, the extended tabs swap right in place of the 12" long ones. www.bennetttrimtabs.com
Also, you can talk to Brett at BBlades. He knows his stuff.
As does Julie and team at Throttle-Up.
Last edited by Sydwayz; 04-07-2009 at 07:03 PM.
#16
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
From: Upper Chesapeake Bay
The rocker bottom doesn't help either. I'm running 630 hp with 690 lbs of torque. I have a 26 B1 and a 25 revolution 4. The boats get on plan easier with the revolution prop. It also settles down pretty good at 50 mph cruse. I've called Sonic to see if they every did any R & D with a shorty. They didn't. Thats one thing I want to try this summer.
#17
Whoah! Lots of chefs in the kitchen!!
Here's my recipe though!
You can try these different setups mentioned above. Some may help. Some my hurt. I wouldn't bother with a 3 blade on that boat.
I had a 1999 with an HP500EFI and ran a labbed 24B1 prop.
The notched transom is the root cause of the issue. The design of the notch is to fool the prop into thinking its on an extension box to put the prop in cleaner water for more bite and performance. However, its a finely balanced double edge sword.
As you get the boat up on plane, it naturally wants to continue to bow lift itself out of the water with the more thrust you put into the prop. As the boat continues to "rock/lift" back to the end of the hull and lift the bow, the running surface runs out of hull. This is where the notch would have been. Essentially, the boat "falls" "off plane" sorta, to where the hull right in front of the notch begins to hold the boat up again. This cycle of stretching out and then "falling" becomes known as a porpoise.
Some Sonics, depending on setup, trim, prop, fuel load, passenger loading, drive height, driver style--will porpoise; at times. The 28 was known for bad issues with this, as was some of the 35s/358s. The big boats like the 386 and up don't have this issue, but you will find it on a few of the smaller (26/28) hulls, on particular boats--depending on who monkeyed with the setup over the years trying to squeak that last .00000257881789 mph out of it.
My advice; take it or leave it:
Tuck the drive a bit. Many folks run with WAY too much trim, especially on a straight bottom boat.
Lower the tabs until the trailing edge is even with the bottom of the boat. Get extended tabs if you can to give the boat some more "hull" to run on. If you have the Bennett tabs, the extended tabs swap right in place of the 12" long ones. www.bennetttrimtabs.com
Also, you can talk to Brett at BBlades. He knows his stuff.
As does Julie and team at Throttle-Up.
Here's my recipe though!
You can try these different setups mentioned above. Some may help. Some my hurt. I wouldn't bother with a 3 blade on that boat.
I had a 1999 with an HP500EFI and ran a labbed 24B1 prop.
The notched transom is the root cause of the issue. The design of the notch is to fool the prop into thinking its on an extension box to put the prop in cleaner water for more bite and performance. However, its a finely balanced double edge sword.
As you get the boat up on plane, it naturally wants to continue to bow lift itself out of the water with the more thrust you put into the prop. As the boat continues to "rock/lift" back to the end of the hull and lift the bow, the running surface runs out of hull. This is where the notch would have been. Essentially, the boat "falls" "off plane" sorta, to where the hull right in front of the notch begins to hold the boat up again. This cycle of stretching out and then "falling" becomes known as a porpoise.
Some Sonics, depending on setup, trim, prop, fuel load, passenger loading, drive height, driver style--will porpoise; at times. The 28 was known for bad issues with this, as was some of the 35s/358s. The big boats like the 386 and up don't have this issue, but you will find it on a few of the smaller (26/28) hulls, on particular boats--depending on who monkeyed with the setup over the years trying to squeak that last .00000257881789 mph out of it.
My advice; take it or leave it:
Tuck the drive a bit. Many folks run with WAY too much trim, especially on a straight bottom boat.
Lower the tabs until the trailing edge is even with the bottom of the boat. Get extended tabs if you can to give the boat some more "hull" to run on. If you have the Bennett tabs, the extended tabs swap right in place of the 12" long ones. www.bennetttrimtabs.com
Also, you can talk to Brett at BBlades. He knows his stuff.
As does Julie and team at Throttle-Up.
I also have 260 prowler 2001. When I purchased the boat I
thought something was wrong with and to find out I didnt know how to drive it. Put the tabs down with the flat edge of the boat, and trim in a little more. Thats all it takes. Do your self a faver and leave the 4-blade on. If you still want to trim up then do it at wide open throttle. The boat can take alot of trim but you have to have it moving 50+mph. Do you have the 425ho mag? I just put a new raylar 525 in mine with cmi sport tubes.
#18
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
From: Upper Chesapeake Bay
03sonic Lisen to every word in sydwayzs post!!!
I also have 260 prowler 2001. When I purchased the boat I
thought something was wrong with and to find out I didnt know how to drive it. Put the tabs down with the flat edge of the boat, and trim in a little more. Thats all it takes. Do your self a faver and leave the 4-blade on. If you still want to trim up then do it at wide open throttle. The boat can take alot of trim but you have to have it moving 50+mph. Do you have the 425ho mag? I just put a new raylar 525 in mine with cmi sport tubes.
I also have 260 prowler 2001. When I purchased the boat I
thought something was wrong with and to find out I didnt know how to drive it. Put the tabs down with the flat edge of the boat, and trim in a little more. Thats all it takes. Do your self a faver and leave the 4-blade on. If you still want to trim up then do it at wide open throttle. The boat can take alot of trim but you have to have it moving 50+mph. Do you have the 425ho mag? I just put a new raylar 525 in mine with cmi sport tubes.
Mike


