engine noise?
 

i have just installed my engine. and i had it running and am letting it warm up. i think the noise it makes in the bilge is normal. it sounds like a light tick not lifter noise. not rod or bearing noise. i think it is the valve springs. i used a borascope and verified the two clearanced rocker arms were not contacting the valve covers. it has a 731 cam, roller lifters, roller rockers. is there a normal noise that comes with them? oil level is good and is 20w-50 valvoline vr-1.

It could be exhaust flappers or exhaust shudder valves.

Or an exhaust leak IE:Head to manifold.

exhaust leack /I have had to go to MR gasket for gaskets on gils '''low cost gaskets ,will just tair:rolleyes:

If it is fuel infected, the injectors can make noise.

i am pretty sure i know what an exhaust leak sounds like. i think it is just the valvetrain. mabye the flappers. i never cared before when it was the factory setup. now every noise and drip is a big issue to me.

That would be my bet.

The internal exhaust flappers will make noise, but are generally kind of intermittent. You can put your hand on the exhaust hose where the tips connect and even feel it when you here the noise. It could just be normal valve train noise, but without actually hearing it in person, I doubt anyone will know for sure.

First thing frist who adjusted the valve train and is it right? Stop running the engine till u know the valve train is adjusted right...... did you replace the valve springs for the cam your running you can not run stock springs they will coil binde with that lift are you running stock rockers they are only good for .500 lift max or roller rockers?

I do not think that the valvesprings can make much noise unless they're broken...even then you'd probably never hear it.

More likely is that a rocker or two has been adjusted a little loose and you're hearing the tick of valve lash.

I'd recommend pulling the valve covers and making sure there's no contact with the the rocker arms, and then re-adjust the valves.


Greg

They will make noise like slaping and if they where broken then it will be late then you will here the piston eating the valve. hammering noise.

well.... it broke. now it has a miss. i can hear puffs of air comming through the intake when i am cranking it. it now makes kind of a hard tick noise that is completely intermittent. it has no relation with the miss or engine speed. im gonna pull the valve covers and take a look. and now that the lifters are pumped up how will i re-adjust the valves?

I'm trying to go through what i think it could be. everything i put in it was new. and im just not sure what could cause this. the boat was on plane. i was being easy on it. it had a noise and miss then i stopped. i listened to it for a second. it makes a snapping noise completely intermittent and has no relation with engine speed. i think a rocker broke. they were the only things i dont think i bought the best of. they were comp cams aluminum rollers 1.7 ratio. and when i set the engine up the lifteres were new so i set the pushrods to zero lash and then one half turn. so i really dont know what the hell happend. you get small puffs of air through the intake so a valve is open hopefully not enough to kiss a piston. babye it sucked a valve up or one of my new valve springs broke. or a rocker broke and jammed and the valve is open

I fired off one of my new engines yesterday with the 731 cam and new morel lifters. It look 5 minutes of so for the valve train to quiet, but it is very quiet now.

For your problem I would guess you installed the timing gear wrong on the crank and what you are hearing is the valves tapping on the pistons. If you have a crank gear with multiple keyways it is easy to do. Don't ask how I know this. Did you degree the cam in?

BT :cool:

Pull the valve covers. You have some serious problems with the valve train. More than likely something is damaged badly. Do not run the engine.

i should have adjusted the valves again after firing it! this sucks. i will let you know what i find. i will most likely get the covers off wednedsay. hopefully the valves have not kissed any pistons.

teeh teeh Igus you donot know how to adjust valves on a bb GM I sold you thoes GILS because you cryed till Isold you them 'I was just trying to help so doint git pissy ;Iam not rebilding FOUNTIN WITH USED PARTS :angry-smiley-038:&Iam not begging for parts& help"PS I HAVE LOTS OF USED PARTS>(yes i am a D.ck$$$$ tee tee ) (THATS THE MASTER TECH IN EM ):drink:

HAY you can send back GILS& I will give you back your money good luck

hahahaha i want the gils still so too bad. thats the only used parts in it. so HA! it broke with new parts!

and i adjusted the valves like i was instructed. we are both techs. but i can say i am not a highly experenced modified engine builder. i am glad to share (even my problems) to onyone on this site both to possibly help someone who could possibly get in my position. and to get help. i have always been told "no question is a dumb question and there is always someone who knows more than you" i will let you all know what i find wednesday night. pray for me!

BT, how do you know this? lol!

20 years ago, 427 bbc alcohol drag motor, Cloyes trueroller, multipe keyway crank gear, takes the time to CAREFULLY degree in solid lifter Ultradyne cam, uses offset bushing in cam gear to get it just right, disassembles engine for final cleaning, you know the rest... Yes, it's easy to do, ONCE!:drink:

ok here is what i found.... the intake rocker arm of cylinder 5 was chattered off of its mount and the pushrod was destroyed at the rocker arm. it sent the end ball about half way down the pushrod causing it to split. the exhaust side pushrod was bent into an s shape. the lifter looks fine and both pushrod ends at the lifters looked good. i used a borascope and found no signs of contact between the piston and valves. this may have been my noise. i prob. should have adjusted the valves again. i dont know what i did wrong. i have big gil anti-reversion tails and my manifolds pass at 20 psi submerged in a garbage can full of water. WHAT DID I DO?

You adjusted the valves wrong.....look up the proper sequence and procedure, put it back together and hope for the best......you may have a bent valve or two. The lifters should be fully primed.

What version of BB are you running? Do you have the Mark IV or GenV cam or the Gen VI with the stepnose? I just learned today how to adjust the cam endplay. If it is not set correctly you can have big problems.

take a look...... i am going to go back through the entire valvetrain. i set them up empty lifters (brand new) adjusted to zero lash and then 1/2 turn after. http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...2/IMG_0939.jpg

gen v block and gen 6 cam no button... using the gm performance bracket and single roller chain. the cam cannot walk due to the bracket between the sprocket and block. :ernaehrung004:

I pray the wiggling pin hasn't fallen out the wobbling hole.

were the valve springs matched to the cam for pressure and lift? possible coil binde as stated before.

145 lbs installed.... i think this lifter set might have bottomed before i hit zero lash and i didnt feel it due to them being new. and they pumped up and screwed up the whole mess. i suck! this is my first BBC ever!:mad:

It is easiest to adjust the valves with the intake off. Then you can actually see when you are at zero lash.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=hydraulicLifters

looks like that one was too loose...appeared may have been hammering the rocker before the pushrod gave up...also what push rods ? did you ck for proper lenth ? Rob

You say you set them at zero lash then 1/2 turn. How do you difine zero lash? It takes a light touch with new lifters to find this spot.

i got them from my local speed shop. i told him what lifters i had and rocker setup and he ordered them. do you think i have the incorrect length pushrods. and what is the best way to find out what size i need?

I would seriously consider pulling the head(s) to check the valves. Way cheaper to do that now than lose the valve later into the engine. I would also suggest having a pro set the lash. Little mistakes cost so much. I would not gamble an engine at this point. Take it to an engine builder to get your setup right. I use Ateco even though I know how to do this stuff. I have spent too much money fixing broken engines because I was trying to do it myself. Hi-performance parts go bad on little mistakes. That is why now I only use experts for my two strokes and four strokes go fast stuff. I was rebuilding these things when i was kid with success with stock parts and stock engines. Hi-perf is a all new game.

Don't get depressed. Figure out what went wrong and fix it. Learn from your mistakes and move on. If you don't think you can handle it, find somone local that you trust to help you. Good Luck!!

they would have no way of knowing for sure what lenth would be correct, they sell a test rocker arm and a adj push rod to check for the correct lenth...Rob

Good advice!

Start by removing a rocker from one intake and one exhaust valve. Clean the end of the valves with thinner. Sharpy marker the end of each valve and reinstall the rockers and adjust properly. Turn the engine over 2 or 3 revolutions. Remove the rockers and look for a bowtie shape approximately centered on the valves in the marker. If you have that, you pushrod are the right length.

engine noise
 

Bring it to Loto You do drywall I fix boat :drink:
Thumper

well i would at least leak it down.... something sure as hell bottomed hard...