Warning buzzer on motor swap
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Warning buzzer on motor swap
Could just be form an unused senor i'm thinking but the main code im getting is for IAC OUTPUT and my IAC % while running is about 99.98% does any of that seem wrong? because the other codes are like the PITOT CKT LO, FUEL LVL CKT HI, and STEER CKT LO. but those are because the senors are missing i believe but i don't think they would set off a wanring buzze but yea im kinda lost. i did just run the motor again and at an idle the IAC went from 47% to 99.98% just randomly, choke maybe? its an 04 5.0 MPI in a 95' bayliner
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Could just be form an unused senor i'm thinking but the main code im getting is for IAC OUTPUT and my IAC % while running is about 99.98% does any of that seem wrong? because the other codes are like the PITOT CKT LO, FUEL LVL CKT HI, and STEER CKT LO. but those are because the senors are missing i believe but i don't think they would set off a wanring buzze but yea im kinda lost. i did just run the motor again and at an idle the IAC went from 47% to 99.98% just randomly, choke maybe? its an 04 5.0 MPI in a 95' bayliner
Put your hand on the IAC after running for several minutes and see if it's hot to the touch. You can use the scanner to put the IAC through a simple test based on your input values provided that you have either CDS or Diacom.
two fuels, pitot, and steering are the norm. They won't set off a beep. If you want to split hairs you can install some inline resistors and make those codes go away.
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yea i knew the other codes were no biggy because i've seen them before on other boats similar to this one but that IAC was the first time i had seen that one, my actual question was do you think that this could be the cause for my buzzer? If so is there a way i can do like an output test or something else instead of just replacing the IAC valve or sensor and maye wasting money? but ill try putting my hand over it, if it gets hot could it be that its shorting it out in the sensor? Thanks a bunch
Cody
Cody
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yea i knew the other codes were no biggy because i've seen them before on other boats similar to this one but that IAC was the first time i had seen that one, my actual question was do you think that this could be the cause for my buzzer? If so is there a way i can do like an output test or something else instead of just replacing the IAC valve or sensor and maye wasting money? but ill try putting my hand over it, if it gets hot could it be that its shorting it out in the sensor? Thanks a bunch
Cody
Cody
Yes, it will cause the alarm to go off if it fails. The easiest way to determine whether or not a given sensor will trip the alarm is simply to unplug it and see if you hear it. Further, the IAC will also put the computer in Guardian Mode until condition is satisfied.
Under most circumstances, the IAC is not something that fails very often. Again, see if it gets hot but you'll have to run it for a while. If the wires are crossed for some unknown reason this will cause it to act up.
Last edited by SDFever; 06-05-2009 at 07:18 PM.
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Read this this might help you some basic ideas of EFI systems, Also Yes you do have a area to test the IAC, it is to reset the IAC with the scan tools. And your numbers need to be lower on the IAC also. Good luck with it.http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=305828
Last edited by Boat Tech; 06-05-2009 at 07:34 PM.
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thanks guys, yea took the iac out an tested it an no repsonse then it got hot so i'm thinking its shorted out inside the motor itself so i have a new one coming and will try it out 2 moro morning, but i read that info from the other guy having that same problem and it helped a little also.
thanks for all the help guys, cleanin some grounds on the boat now an puttin on the new one 2 moro
Cody
thanks for all the help guys, cleanin some grounds on the boat now an puttin on the new one 2 moro
Cody