Good point on the oil cooler and lines. Offten a forgotten system to flush. I agree to just toss it oout. You can never get them flushed properly. They gett clogged when they are hot and the fins are expanded. Then they cool and contract on some of the particles. You try to flush them when cold. Then when they get hot again they release the trapped metal. Better to go with new. On another note, how does a coupler get to 50-60% life left? How do you tell? Half broken? You don't need to go new, just get one that isn't coming apart on you and half broken.

The machine shop called and the crank is crqcked beyond repair. I am now considering parting out the entire boat and buying a canoe. This has gone from a $1100 for machine work, bearings, and a few new parts to $3500 for new crank, machine work, balance rotating assembly, bearings a few more new parts. I just dont think this is in me budget every 10 hours. May be in the market for a bayliner, cant stand being without a boat.

That does suck. Maybe performance boats aren't the right type for you? But in all reality, that isnt a bad price.

I don't know why you had problems at only 10 hours?

I feel for you big time. I wish I could some how help out. Keep in mind though that you can find some pretty good deals on a complete 4340 forged rotating assm. for around 1500.00. If you need help finding one if you decide to go this route let me know or at least look at ADPerformance for some options or ideas. Otherwise you could just always find a deal on a 454 and go have fun for the rest of the summer and deal with your rebuild during the off season. You can always resell the 454 or keep it for a spare. Good luck and always keep in mind "worse things can always happen." Be sure and let me know if you have any other questions and or thoughts.
Take care.
John

the spline start to wear is how you can tell the life. Also i have a stock 502 crank that I am taking out of my motor, along with connecting rods and cam.

Just like GETNRDUN said REPLACE the oil cooler and lines. There is no way to get the metal out, no way. I cut one cooler open after spinning a bearing thinking it was clean and metal flakes where still hiding everywhere. I will see if I can bring the picture back, it was posted here a few years ago.

I purchased a used oil cooler from someone (no names) that was not "just like new" that I think caused me to spin a bearing and trash an engine with 10 hours on it.

I even remember on my first boat that I had spun a couple of bearings on and grenaded the top end. After rebuilding the engine right before I was ready to put everything back in place I decided to blow through the oil lines with a compressor. Anybody that has been down this road knows what pops out the other end. (big long metal sludge terd). I know there is a lot of great engine builders out there and I learned from one of them many years ago. CLEAN - CLEAN - CLEAN.

I think the prices of these oil coolers are rediculous however well worth it when they become contaminated. I wonder if anyone has ever just run the air cooled oil coolers in a marine application...

Got a call from the machine shop today, the block is ruined. Now I dont know what to do with it. Maybe just a new short block from ateco or someone is in order, I will replace the cooler at this point, assuming I fix it at all. I may strap a few honda four bangers together and try that.
and thanks everyone for the advice and help.

If I go with a short block it will most likely be a dart block, Will my gen V lifters and cam work if I use a cam button?

I thought money was tight for ya? If you want to do this the right way but cheaper, find a used Gen V or VI block. Then find a used crank, have it turned and/or polished. Get some Eagle rods, maybe some decent TRW forged pistons and be done with it for atleast 2500 less than with a Dart block. You can find the block for under 500, crank for around 400 or so, etc.

A Dart block is not necessary unless you are gonna start making big power. Why spend the money to make 500hp?

No offense, but if you were upset about spending 3500 earlier, then you're gonna flip when you see that a bare Dart block with no machine work (new) is 2300!!