Offshoreonly.com - oil temp too hot any suggestions?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by lake speed (Post 2919645)

yes the jetting is the same. it is not a rebuild this is a totally new motor. I started witht the same jets and was going to work from there. the plugs are nice and brown with no hint of detonation. if it was detonating to the point of heating the oil wouldnt you guys think there would be some splatter on the plugs? or at least the plugs look white? the oil temp will heat up to 140 while letting the boat idle for a bit through the no wake zone. as soon as I get the boat up on plane the oil temp gradually inreases and will continue to inrease until I slow down. when I slow down and go through an idle zone the oil temp doesnt really come down like it should. the temp will decrease but not like it did with my old motor. the only way to get the oil to cool down totally is to shut the motor off and let it sit for awhile. the is the exact same oil system that I had on my other motor and it worked great. If the bearing clearances were too tight wouldnt the oil cool down at idle? I can let the oil ccol with the motor off and after starting it again it will idle all day at 140-150 degrees of oil temp but as soon as you get up on plane it heats back up?

Your oil is NOT flowing through the cooler.
Could be the oil adaptor, ie the lines to the cooler and return,
Could be a plug not fitted in the oil gallery and allowing the oil to bypass the filter and cooler,
or ???? many other reasons, put an inline pressure gauge on the cooler line.

Your motor is behaving like it has no Cooler.

Steve

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastlane40 (Post 2920009)

interesting.I'm having the same trouble with new 632's.Almost identical set up to you.Dart block,canton adapter,18x3 cooler,an12 lines,canton offshore pans,oil senders in the pan,crossovers and no thermostats at present due to water pressure issues.First lap and on it went to 260,slowed to 5000rpm and came down to 230.I too am wondering if the cooler is too small.I'm not sure about a restrictor.Definetly need a thermostat to get the motor temp up.

Sounds like you are racing.....First lap and on

A 632 is 4.6 x 4.75 stroke,
you are running a wet sump and a 'tiny' cooler, what do you expect?:eek:
The oil cannot return past the massive area of the rotating assembly.
You need a dry sump or external oil drains AND more cooler.

Steve

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpeedMaster (Post 2920173)

lol my motor is bigger than his. I think I found part of the problem. the anode on the front of the lower unit is missing. when I put the water to the lower unit it sprays out of the hole that the bolt that holds the anode on goes in and thats why my water psi is very low. I dont know if it was removed at the shop when the drive was off or??? but when its in the water you dont notice it because it is submerged. at speed there is not enough water flowing through the cooler to cool the oil I have not tested this theory but it has to be part of the problem because like I said this is the same system that I had on my 622ci motor and it worked like a champ. that would also explain why there isnt much water coming out of the cooler petcock when I OPEN IT when the engine is running. I know that the oil is flowing through the cooler because every time I have had it off it has oil in it and the cooler feels warm to the touch. I had it off yesterday and drained all the oil out and today when I took the line off the return side of the cooler it had oil in it.

Just re-read this thread. Post #45 asked what your WP was, you responded..." 2-3 lbs at idle". This isn't very important, but what is important is your water pressure and flow at speed. This needs to be 10+ lbs with a lot of flow. Based on your comments about "warm water at the cooler", I think your water circulation needs a hard look.

this is the one Bob Teague recomended to me http://teaguecustommarine.com//store...roducts_id=972

price has jumped up since I got mine

the gauge shows 2-3 pounds at idle but that is on the hose. I think that the hole in the lower where the anode bolts is leaking psi at speed. I actually reved the motor with the drain plug out of the cooler and it doesn't increase very much like it should. I will put a new anode on tomorrow and update. I dont see how there could be any water psi with it all leaking out of the hole. I tried running the boat with the nose cone in a large bucket and it wouldnt pick up water because the hole where the anode bolts wasnt submerged but when on the hose it obviosly has at least 15 pounds of psi. I hope I have finally found something but if not I will keep on looking. I really appreciate all the helpful advice.

Sounds like you may have solved it. At speed you should be running at least 10psi of water pressure.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lake speed (Post 2920235)

when I put the water to the lower unit it sprays out of the hole that the bolt that holds the anode on goes in and thats why my water psi is very low.

That's why I asked how much PSI you have underway. As stated previously, you should have 10+ psi.

I just noticed that the cooler is chromed. According to informed sources, chroming will cut the cooling ability of the cooler in half. I'd ditch that cooler and get one that has a 3 x 18 cooling element. It will have about a 24" overall length. That's a big engine and it needs a big cooler that's not chromed.