Update
 

Update….
Well, DesertRage and I went and did some testing and here’s what we found…

We re-checked the timing in better lighting condition it seemed to be just about where it was suppose to be (within reason anyway)
Kind of hard to read; maybe weak spark.

With the motor running the LED was on kind of solid but so was the good motor. Kind of a combo of off and on at fast impulses I suppose.

Turned the key on the down motor with motor not running and got no LED signal.
Tried the same on the good motor and we had a momentary bright LED signal but it didn’t stay on. (I’ve got a call into the former Crane tech to see if that is normal)
Verified this difference between the two several times.
Red Flag here!

Checked switched 12v; good. Checked main 12v; good.

Tried different curve; same.

Tried different rev limit; same.

The final test… Took number 2 spark plug wire from good motor and used it for a long coil wire from good motor's coil to the down motor’s distributor. Jumped the two distributor wires (wht/red and wht/grn) from the good motor to the down motor. Keyed up the box on the good motor and fired the down motor. How about that; fired off like it never missed a beat.

The conclusion points to a bad Crane box. First Crane box I’ve ever heard of going down and it seems I have it.
I have purchased a used box from a fellow OSO member and will be installing it early next week. Thanks SteveS

The only loop hole I see here is that it could possibly be the coil as we used the other motors coil but that wouldn’t explain no red LED flash when keying on.
These boxes were brand new in November as were the coils. It was when Crane let a few units out to Jegs, Summit and Carshop to name a few. Maybe there was something different with this vintage :hothead:

If the other unit goes down I’m going with DUI distributors!

Comments Welcomed...
Dave

Maybe the company that purchased the Crane ignition components can repair your old box and you will have a spare. Good thinking on your test solution!

I shot him an email with an iquiry about that...
Thanks

When the ignition is turned on the red light on the crane box lights up momentarily and then shuts off. Then the red light blinks when the motor is turning over indicating the box is receiving the signal from the distributor. Sounds like you don't have power to the box. Can you jumper a hot wire onto the power wire for the crane module and make sure you have a ground to the box?? Also, hook up the "bad" box on the good motor and see if it runs the good motor if you think you have power.

Is there a fuse in the power wire to the crane box?? Bad connection?

That makes me feel much better about the light not staying on :drink:

We checked voltage between the in-wire capacitor and the box on the main power wire and we had solid 12v with the key on but still no LED light.

Thanks for the feedback!
I'm open to any other ideas.
(no fuse on main 12v other than the 50amp on the starter)
Dave

Also, the crane box is like a stereo amp. The main power is supplied from a large wire off of the battery or battery switch (right?) switched inside the crane box using 12v from the boat's ignition system.

Check that you have 12v at the thin red wire on the 6 pin weather pack when the key is on. The main power wires are the 10 gage wires that go directly into the box which is not the "switch" wire from the ignition. Somewhere, you should have the thin red wire connected to the purple ignition wire on the boat/motor harness.

I would also take the capacitor out of the loop and try the box without anything in between the power supply and the box. Use a jumper for the main power and a jumper for the thin red switch wire directly from the battery to make sure.


BTW do you have the Crane HI6M manual? I have an electronic copy but it is too big to attach to a post. PM me with an email addresss and I will forward it to you.

Thanks Again Thunder...
We did check the thin red/purple as well as the heavy red with the key on and found 12v. I would assume that there is an internal relay setup in the unit for what you are talking about.
Both units show the same at the thin red and thick red going into the box with the key on. Only difference is the red LED comes on momentarily at key up on the good box and not on the non-functional one and oviously the one that lights up the LED runs perfect and the one that doesn't light will only idle and not very well.

Keep the thoughts coming!!
(yes, I have a manual; Thanks though)
Thanks
Dave

Sure does seem like you are getting close to the bad box conclusion. Great troubleshooting effort.

After rereading I would try swapping coils as the last step before box replacement.