Ignition(?) Problem HI-6M and TB-IV Distributor
08-28-2009, 03:09 PM
#21
Yes, that is the one unknown and the way I rigged the coils is pretty tidy (in other words, a PIA to get at 
)
That's why I'm putting my faith in the non-functioning red LED flag
on that box. It wouldn't know the coil was bad 
Thanks Again,
Dave
)That's why I'm putting my faith in the non-functioning red LED flag
on that box. It wouldn't know the coil was bad Thanks Again,
Dave
08-29-2009, 11:28 PM
#23
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I had almost exactly the same thing happen a week ago. I wound iup with a dim red light on the crane box - even when jumpered straight from terminal posts. hooked the tb iv back up and fired right up.
I got an email back from S&S to send them the numbers off the box if I bought within the last year and they would see if eligible for warranty replacement. They made clear that as a courtesy they were honoring crane warranties when possible.
I have not heard of one these going bad until mine crapped out so it was one of the last things i really considered seriously...
I got an email back from S&S to send them the numbers off the box if I bought within the last year and they would see if eligible for warranty replacement. They made clear that as a courtesy they were honoring crane warranties when possible.
I have not heard of one these going bad until mine crapped out so it was one of the last things i really considered seriously...
08-31-2009, 07:49 AM
#24
Making some interesting progress...
Some more interesting findings!
I had already pulled the Crane box last week and took it home. I went up Saturday morning to clean up the mount and install weather proof butt connectors on the wires to get ready for the new box I have coming.
When we cut the wires I wanted to leave what I thought at the time, was a filter on the heavy 12v line going to the box. It's actually a fuse link that is shrink wrapped (why would you shrink wrap a fuse link). When I grabbed the wire to strip it back it slipped right out of the link. I mean it literally slipped out. Turns out that the wire was never in the plastic housing far enough to ever be crimped; just far enough to touch the end of the metal contact which gave us the 12v on the ohm meter. The bare wire was clean, uncrimped virgin strand.
I'm thinking I have found a huge red flag here
(I'm about 30 miles from where the boat is kept which is why none of this happens fast )
I run home and grab the box and try to test it on the truck battery. Hook up the heavy 12v and ground and the touch the 12v switch wire; No light
OK, maybe it needs all the wires hooked up to get the verification light so Sunday morning back to the boat. I just stick the main power wires and then the distributor wires into the butt connectors. No light... Finish sticking the coil wires and tach wire in and holy crapola, a solid red light with the key
Not a momentary flash but solid.
I call BobL on the way home to chat about my findings and he tells me he had a brand new one last year for customer that had the exact same issue
I was not in a position to start the motor and I didn't want to crimp my leads until I'm sure this is the direction I'm taking.
Now I'm thinking that the red light is suppose to stay on as the Crane tech and BobL said so i'm going to pull the other link and check it as well. More than likely it's the same way; it can't sustain the full 12v thru the bad connection under load.
I'm thinking that the crimp person/machine was having a bad day which may also explain wtfo's issue as well.
Can someone actually verify if the light actually stays on or just flashes once.
I think I'm close to finding that I have a good box and some poor human mfg process control.
More to come!
Thanks,
Dave
I had already pulled the Crane box last week and took it home. I went up Saturday morning to clean up the mount and install weather proof butt connectors on the wires to get ready for the new box I have coming.
When we cut the wires I wanted to leave what I thought at the time, was a filter on the heavy 12v line going to the box. It's actually a fuse link that is shrink wrapped (why would you shrink wrap a fuse link). When I grabbed the wire to strip it back it slipped right out of the link. I mean it literally slipped out. Turns out that the wire was never in the plastic housing far enough to ever be crimped; just far enough to touch the end of the metal contact which gave us the 12v on the ohm meter. The bare wire was clean, uncrimped virgin strand.
I'm thinking I have found a huge red flag here
(I'm about 30 miles from where the boat is kept which is why none of this happens fast )
I run home and grab the box and try to test it on the truck battery. Hook up the heavy 12v and ground and the touch the 12v switch wire; No light
OK, maybe it needs all the wires hooked up to get the verification light so Sunday morning back to the boat. I just stick the main power wires and then the distributor wires into the butt connectors. No light... Finish sticking the coil wires and tach wire in and holy crapola, a solid red light with the key
Not a momentary flash but solid.I call BobL on the way home to chat about my findings and he tells me he had a brand new one last year for customer that had the exact same issue
I was not in a position to start the motor and I didn't want to crimp my leads until I'm sure this is the direction I'm taking.
Now I'm thinking that the red light is suppose to stay on as the Crane tech and BobL said so i'm going to pull the other link and check it as well. More than likely it's the same way; it can't sustain the full 12v thru the bad connection under load.
I'm thinking that the crimp person/machine was having a bad day which may also explain wtfo's issue as well.
Can someone actually verify if the light actually stays on or just flashes once.
I think I'm close to finding that I have a good box and some poor human mfg process control.
More to come!
Thanks,
Dave
Last edited by Nordicflame; 08-31-2009 at 07:51 AM.
08-31-2009, 08:14 AM
#25
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Great news! As you re-rig, consider using the Weatherpack connections on all your connections. The correct crimping tool is a little pricey, but you it is a good investment in reliability. If you have the MSD crimping tool, they offer separate jaws for Weatherpack connector crimping. All the parts are available at Jegs/Summit. Summit also sells a Weatherpack starter kit.
08-31-2009, 06:33 PM
#27
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Some more interesting findings!
I had already pulled the Crane box last week and took it home. I went up Saturday morning to clean up the mount and install weather proof butt connectors on the wires to get ready for the new box I have coming.
When we cut the wires I wanted to leave what I thought at the time, was a filter on the heavy 12v line going to the box. It's actually a fuse link that is shrink wrapped (why would you shrink wrap a fuse link). When I grabbed the wire to strip it back it slipped right out of the link. I mean it literally slipped out. Turns out that the wire was never in the plastic housing far enough to ever be crimped; just far enough to touch the end of the metal contact which gave us the 12v on the ohm meter. The bare wire was clean, uncrimped virgin strand.
I'm thinking I have found a huge red flag here
(I'm about 30 miles from where the boat is kept which is why none of this happens fast )
I run home and grab the box and try to test it on the truck battery. Hook up the heavy 12v and ground and the touch the 12v switch wire; No light
OK, maybe it needs all the wires hooked up to get the verification light so Sunday morning back to the boat. I just stick the main power wires and then the distributor wires into the butt connectors. No light... Finish sticking the coil wires and tach wire in and holy crapola, a solid red light with the key Not a momentary flash but solid.
I call BobL on the way home to chat about my findings and he tells me he had a brand new one last year for customer that had the exact same issue
I was not in a position to start the motor and I didn't want to crimp my leads until I'm sure this is the direction I'm taking.
Now I'm thinking that the red light is suppose to stay on as the Crane tech and BobL said so i'm going to pull the other link and check it as well. More than likely it's the same way; it can't sustain the full 12v thru the bad connection under load.
I'm thinking that the crimp person/machine was having a bad day which may also explain wtfo's issue as well.
Can someone actually verify if the light actually stays on or just flashes once.
I think I'm close to finding that I have a good box and some poor human mfg process control.
More to come!
Thanks,
Dave
I had already pulled the Crane box last week and took it home. I went up Saturday morning to clean up the mount and install weather proof butt connectors on the wires to get ready for the new box I have coming.
When we cut the wires I wanted to leave what I thought at the time, was a filter on the heavy 12v line going to the box. It's actually a fuse link that is shrink wrapped (why would you shrink wrap a fuse link). When I grabbed the wire to strip it back it slipped right out of the link. I mean it literally slipped out. Turns out that the wire was never in the plastic housing far enough to ever be crimped; just far enough to touch the end of the metal contact which gave us the 12v on the ohm meter. The bare wire was clean, uncrimped virgin strand.
I'm thinking I have found a huge red flag here
(I'm about 30 miles from where the boat is kept which is why none of this happens fast )
I run home and grab the box and try to test it on the truck battery. Hook up the heavy 12v and ground and the touch the 12v switch wire; No light
OK, maybe it needs all the wires hooked up to get the verification light so Sunday morning back to the boat. I just stick the main power wires and then the distributor wires into the butt connectors. No light... Finish sticking the coil wires and tach wire in and holy crapola, a solid red light with the key
Not a momentary flash but solid.I call BobL on the way home to chat about my findings and he tells me he had a brand new one last year for customer that had the exact same issue
I was not in a position to start the motor and I didn't want to crimp my leads until I'm sure this is the direction I'm taking.
Now I'm thinking that the red light is suppose to stay on as the Crane tech and BobL said so i'm going to pull the other link and check it as well. More than likely it's the same way; it can't sustain the full 12v thru the bad connection under load.
I'm thinking that the crimp person/machine was having a bad day which may also explain wtfo's issue as well.
Can someone actually verify if the light actually stays on or just flashes once.
I think I'm close to finding that I have a good box and some poor human mfg process control.
More to come!
Thanks,
Dave
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