Biggus

iTrader: (1)

I`d like to hear some thoughts on this subject. Up here the water temp is in the high 30`s the ice went out last week. My new boat has blower motors and has no thermostats. The oil and water temp guages don`t move at all and the motor is building very little heat. Is it safe to run fairly hard with the oil and water temp that cold?

I`ve been told in the past that oil does not lubricate properly until it reaches over 100 degrees.

It has 20-50 Kendall oil in it at the moment

Thanks, Kurt.

Audiofn

How about the Kieth Eickhart Oil T-Stats? THat should warm you up faster. I have heard that the problem is with cold oil you can build up so much preasure that it actually worms out the Bearings.

Jon

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Biggus, this is from my FIRST HAND ACTAUL EXPERIENCE!

My blower motor also never would build any temps, oil or water, according to my gauges. And this was during the SUMMER. When I disassembled the motor last fall, it was FULL of condensation in the lifter galley from running cold. So much that I scooped it out with with my hand. In just between weekend runs, the condensation was so high that the moisture was starting to pit my new roller cam and it did take out 2 sets of new lifters. I can only imagine what more damage would have been done if I would have waited a couple of weeks after my last run to tear into the motor, and not the 2 days that I did. I spent a lot of time and $ this winter to make sure that I will have both temps for now on. Chances are that if you could get your engine temp up, your oil will come up too. I made up my own type of bypass setup using a crossover so that I could run a t-stat, yet control water pressure. You just can't add a t-stat and go. Does not work like that.

excaleagle42

if the block stays cold and the pistons warm up and expand, it can accelerate ring wear.

candyman35

US1 Fountain,
Would a restrictor in place of a thermostat work for the cold months?

Biggus,
Do a search for Oil Thermostats. There was a link to a very inexpensive one that fits between the oil filter and the filter base. I believe engine builders want the oil to stay above 180 when running hard.

Dan

MIKEHTMSR24

If you don't have one buy one. You need to keep that pressure under 25 max preferred 18.
I have a Gary Grimes water dump system. Cost me a few bucks but well worth it. 770/475/5272.
Their is a lot of work ahead of you when you try to get water and oil temps right with the correct water pressure when using a crossover system.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

candyman,
Glad you brougt that up. I was using a restrictor for the last 2 yrs. With no restrictor, I had very little water pressure and absolutely no temps. With a restrictor smaller than I was using, WP was higher than I wanted. Didn't run it that way, so no ideal on what it did for temps. With the restrictor I was using, my WP was right at 15-18, never any water temp, but did see the oil temp come off the stop a couple of times, barely though, when running long and hard.

MIKEHTM is right on the money. You don't remove the water recirc pump and install a crossover, and maybe a bypass hose and t-stat and think you are set to go. You need to get water pressure water temp and oil temp all dialed in together. This is why I have installed the oil-stat unit that is used on the HP500's to control oil temp, and incorporated the stock Merc bypass tee into my crossover setup to control waterpressure, while allowing me to run a t-stat for the engine temps.