Dayum Eddie i thought u were approved :lolhit:i read in a thread that he was giving you the engine job months ago :eek:






















Eddie the Catman likes str@kin your C ck:lolhit:LOL
did i say that outload ?:kiss:

How about some grade 5 Titanium rods,pricey:eek::drink:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CROWE...QQcmdZViewItem

Just think if we could have roller bearing crank and rods in a bbc.:cool:

I don't see why it can't be done. Outboards use roller bearings on the crank and rods. I just don't know if they could handle the loads of a BBC. I have to imagine that if it could be done then it would have been done by now. They have used roller bearings in the camshaft for years, so there must be a reason they don't use them for the crank and rods.
Eddie

Pro Stockers in NHRA already had roller main bearings. That is why the rule states you must use a babbit bearing.

I think F1 and Indy motors have them, I would think some import cars do.Chris we were at Daytona way back, they did a show like PRI days before the race,I don't remember the name,one booths had a Titanium crank shaft,it was pretty cool,they were something like 10k,they had already outlawed it in Nascar.I guess the piston weight would be a problem?zing zing:drink:

I remember when Crower came out with the inroad cam,we tried even selling them at WD just to try and get some out there,$$

Strip, What is an in-road cam ?

sorry Mississippi, sp in rad:drink:

I got mixed up ,its a inverse radious cam,long time ago:drink:

Are they worth doing, dry sump w/10" vacuum....55 or 60 mm, .903 + or .937 lifters ?

Do you prefer none, single or double lube tubes, DLC pins, coated pistons, non inner-cooled ?

Torrington bearings are never bad unless they come apart. You're wasting your time worrying about friction loss via the cam journal at this point in your endeavor.

If you really want to have an indestructible valve train, start looking at 82 C rockwell camshaft and 1" flat tappet with 2:1 rocker ratio. You can achieve better valve stability and longevity.

As fast or can be faster than most roller profiles and will live longer than the short block. :)

None. I will use piston oilers to keep the pins lubed and the pistons temps down in a dry sump application. As for the coatings, it can't hurt. It all depends on the app. That will determine if it is neccessary.In my 1200/1400, the only thing coated is the bearings. Never had a need to coat anything else. I just haven't seen the need to fix something that isn't broken.
In your case, I would spend the money on an intercooler and not worry about all the coatings for the power you are trying to make. I'm not saying the coatings do not work. I am all about overbuilding and doing whatever is needed to make the most reliable and longest lasting engine possible. I just don't think they are neccessary for what you are trying to accomplish.
Eddie

These engines will safely make the power they make. Sure, some want the moon and want it to run on junk fuel. Reasonable, safe power with durability is "our" objective. We are of the opinion enough power will push a barn wall as fast as you want to go. We're also of the opinion, proper hull set up and a couple of other non typical things will do what we want it to do, with less power. For example, recently we were involved with making changes to a high profile boat that would run 148, after changes 161+.

The inner cooler is an interesting subject. Personally, we would rather invest in piston sprayers, lube tubes,
DLC pins, coated pistons, dry sump w/vacuum and etc. Anything to keep the holes as cool as possible, while adding durability. We're also suspicious the blower by pass valve is another area that needs development, would reduce heat, and add durability. If there is an inner cooler w/dimpled fins angled and spaced to the various runners then we need that also, a little more boost and perhaps a 1671, providing for under drive.

Richard, Good point, are you referring to the Mopar combination....lifter bushings or not ?