What flywheel are you using??
10-20-2009, 07:53 PM
#11
VIP Member
D!ck I remember another thread on this,they were saying run the heavy stock one,ill have to do a search,cant remember.
all the gm flywheels ive seen are cast with casting #'s then machined for the clutch surface.ex or internal
ball,.I would think with a light weight one,it would rev quicker :less drag,but with a bravo style drive just makes it easyier to break something and once your up to top speed trying to run a # the rotating mass is already up to speed and probally doesent have that much drag??
like Tyler says it helps accelerate coming out of the turns.
kind like running a automatic flywheel on a race car
Guessing around here
Rob
all the gm flywheels ive seen are cast with casting #'s then machined for the clutch surface.ex or internal
ball,.I would think with a light weight one,it would rev quicker :less drag,but with a bravo style drive just makes it easyier to break something and once your up to top speed trying to run a # the rotating mass is already up to speed and probally doesent have that much drag??
like Tyler says it helps accelerate coming out of the turns.
kind like running a automatic flywheel on a race car
Guessing around here
Rob
10-20-2009, 07:55 PM
#12
Charter Member #601
Charter MemberThread Starter
Gary,
you are correct. The 10-130 is the one I need.
I was looking at what I thought was the correct McLeod. But the guy mislead me.
Did you have to do any clearancing of the back of yours to fit your crank? Or did it mount right up?
you are correct. The 10-130 is the one I need.
I was looking at what I thought was the correct McLeod. But the guy mislead me.
Did you have to do any clearancing of the back of yours to fit your crank? Or did it mount right up?
10-20-2009, 08:05 PM
#13
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Dick,
If you decide on aluminum, I have one 13-14 (?) lbs Keith Eickert flywheel in my shop. Excellent condition. I could UPS on Sunday if you want. $210 delivered. Another option is a trade for your steel one? If the steel one doesn't help my idle, we can trade back in 2010
Ben
If you decide on aluminum, I have one 13-14 (?) lbs Keith Eickert flywheel in my shop. Excellent condition. I could UPS on Sunday if you want. $210 delivered. Another option is a trade for your steel one? If the steel one doesn't help my idle, we can trade back in 2010
Ben
10-20-2009, 08:18 PM
#14
Bolted right up, used ARP bolts. Didn't want to go to light and didn't trust the stock one when I turn it up.
10-20-2009, 08:49 PM
#15
Charter Member #601
Charter MemberThread Starter
Ben,
I like the idea of a heavy one.. 30# is what I have been running with no issues at idle in and out of gear. I think I like the idea of that Hays 10-130. That should put me back to where I have been.
I just didnt know if you get what you pay for in this instance. When you see $100 difference it makes me wonder why. But if Gary is good with the Hays, I can be also.
Tx the 502 is Gen V and a different balance than the Gen IV 454, but has the same bolt pattern, so careful with mix and match.
Gary,
I was going to fire it this past weekend, but ended up with problems (self induced) with the electronics. Getting that worked out this week. If I can find some transistors tomorrow, then maybe by the end of the week?? Headed out of town on Sat and Sunday.. So more delays!! Getting close!
Thanks for all of the ideas guys!!
Appreciate it!
Dick
I like the idea of a heavy one.. 30# is what I have been running with no issues at idle in and out of gear. I think I like the idea of that Hays 10-130. That should put me back to where I have been.
I just didnt know if you get what you pay for in this instance. When you see $100 difference it makes me wonder why. But if Gary is good with the Hays, I can be also.
Tx the 502 is Gen V and a different balance than the Gen IV 454, but has the same bolt pattern, so careful with mix and match.
Gary,
I was going to fire it this past weekend, but ended up with problems (self induced) with the electronics. Getting that worked out this week. If I can find some transistors tomorrow, then maybe by the end of the week?? Headed out of town on Sat and Sunday.. So more delays!! Getting close!
Thanks for all of the ideas guys!!
Appreciate it!
Dick
10-20-2009, 09:04 PM
#16
Gary,
I was going to fire it this past weekend, but ended up with problems (self induced) with the electronics. Getting that worked out this week. If I can find some transistors tomorrow, then maybe by the end of the week?? Headed out of town on Sat and Sunday.. So more delays!! Getting close!
Thanks for all of the ideas guys!!
Appreciate it!
Dick[/QUOTE]
It doesn't look like you'll be seeing the water this year, that sucks. If you need any spare parts let me know.
PS. my drive is still running strong, 30 hrs, 1400 plus hp. THANKS !!
I was going to fire it this past weekend, but ended up with problems (self induced) with the electronics. Getting that worked out this week. If I can find some transistors tomorrow, then maybe by the end of the week?? Headed out of town on Sat and Sunday.. So more delays!! Getting close!
Thanks for all of the ideas guys!!
Appreciate it!
Dick[/QUOTE]
It doesn't look like you'll be seeing the water this year, that sucks. If you need any spare parts let me know.
PS. my drive is still running strong, 30 hrs, 1400 plus hp. THANKS !!
10-21-2009, 10:19 AM
#19
Registered
I use a cast iron unit from Pioneer on engines under 700 hp. It is more than acceptable and very economical at under $150. On engines between 700-1000 hp, I use the 40 lb unit and on engines over 1000 hp, I use the 50 lb flywheel. I have found that the larger engines, which typically go in larger, heavier boats, really benefit from the increased inertia of the heavier flywheel. I would not run the cast iron flywheel on anything over 700 hp. I've seen one explode on a 1200 hp engine. Chit flew everywhere. Made one hell of a mess.
The only steel flywheel I have used is the Hays. I can't speak about any of the others, but the Hays have been flawless and well worth the money.
This is from Hay's website:
Q: Should I use an aluminum or steel flywheel?
A: Aluminum flywheels with their lighter weight, are typically used in oval track and road race applications and are also popular in high-horsepower, light weight drag cars. These vehicles rely on engine horsepower to drive the wheels. Steel flywheels are used in applications that require additional engine torque for performance. A heavier flywheel can help acceleration from a standing start and keep the engine's RPM and power up. These are characteristics needed most in high-torque applications such as tractor pulling.
Boats definitely qualify as high torque applications.
Hope this helps.
Eddie
The only steel flywheel I have used is the Hays. I can't speak about any of the others, but the Hays have been flawless and well worth the money.
This is from Hay's website:
Q: Should I use an aluminum or steel flywheel?
A: Aluminum flywheels with their lighter weight, are typically used in oval track and road race applications and are also popular in high-horsepower, light weight drag cars. These vehicles rely on engine horsepower to drive the wheels. Steel flywheels are used in applications that require additional engine torque for performance. A heavier flywheel can help acceleration from a standing start and keep the engine's RPM and power up. These are characteristics needed most in high-torque applications such as tractor pulling.
Boats definitely qualify as high torque applications.
Hope this helps.
Eddie
10-21-2009, 02:02 PM
#20
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Eddie,
Thanks for the input to this thread. Your approach is very logical. I will order the Hays 10-130 billet flywheel. We will likely end up with 30 lbs steel flywheels on both engines. We no longer race out of the corners.
Ben
Thanks for the input to this thread. Your approach is very logical. I will order the Hays 10-130 billet flywheel. We will likely end up with 30 lbs steel flywheels on both engines. We no longer race out of the corners.
Ben
