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Gary,
You are welcome for the drive!! Always glad to help out. I talked to Hays today and found Bill a very knowledgeable guy. Unlike the others I had talked to at Ram and Mcleod. He explained the steel is A36 and comes from USA!! The flywheel is also USA! He described several options and the 10-130 is the cheapest of all of them and as good of quality as the rest if not better. Ben, The flywheel I have now is a Mcleod and one tooth is broken. I posted this question to find out if there was any difference between the a cheaper ones (Hays or Ram) and the more expensive Mcleod. Seems the quantity of wheels Hays does helps with costs. I stopped by the local speed shop and they had 8 of them in stock and would match Summit's price, so I brought one home with me! As far as physical differences, I dont really see any. Bill explained to me they are built not to blow up.. the ring gear is also made not to explode. They test batches of the steel they use for several properties and then every year they send in wheels to be spin tested attempting to blow them up, to see if that the quality is maintained. The spin testing is done with the ring gear on it. All in all I liked the knowledge the Hays engineer had. I know own one and hope to give it a good home behind my medium sized, 572 - M4, motor. All the billet wheels I considered were SFI certified. I believe they are of all the same quality as far as safety is concerned. Thanks again for everyone's input. Dick |
This is all you need to run if you have a gen v or vi 115.00 plus shipping plus some good arp bolts and loc-tite
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...96987/10002/-1 |
Originally Posted by Young Performance
(Post 2976807)
I use a cast iron unit from Pioneer on engines under 700 hp. It is more than acceptable and very economical at under $150. On engines between 700-1000 hp, I use the 40 lb unit and on engines over 1000 hp, I use the 50 lb flywheel. I have found that the larger engines, which typically go in larger, heavier boats, really benefit from the increased inertia of the heavier flywheel. I would not run the cast iron flywheel on anything over 700 hp. I've seen one explode on a 1200 hp engine. Chit flew everywhere. Made one hell of a mess.
The only steel flywheel I have used is the Hays. I can't speak about any of the others, but the Hays have been flawless and well worth the money. This is from Hay's website: Q: Should I use an aluminum or steel flywheel? A: Aluminum flywheels with their lighter weight, are typically used in oval track and road race applications and are also popular in high-horsepower, light weight drag cars. These vehicles rely on engine horsepower to drive the wheels. Steel flywheels are used in applications that require additional engine torque for performance. A heavier flywheel can help acceleration from a standing start and keep the engine's RPM and power up. These are characteristics needed most in high-torque applications such as tractor pulling. Boats definitely qualify as high torque applications. Hope this helps. Eddie |
After a little more research, the Hays 10-130 billet steel flywheel is set up for a front mount starter. Hays said the ring gear is not reversible. This leaves the Hays "Marine flywheel" 10-320...with the usual marine pricing :eek:
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I cut the Hay's flywheels myself for the top mount starters. I have never bought the marine flywheel. Been cutting them for years and never had a problem with them. Any machine shop the has a lathe with a 14" swing can do it. Good luck.
Eddie |
Thanks Eddie, I will pursue this option. Do you just cut the surface flat or do you leave a small ridge similar to the GM/Merc flywheel?
Ben |
I leave a small shoulder. I cut the backside the same width as the factory one. It ends up leaving a small shoulder in the center of the flywheel. Off the top of my head, the shoulder is about .150".
Eddie |
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