MrCIG

iTrader: (1)

Where can you buy a water pressure relief valve?
And what is the max water pressure you should have?

RumRunner

Contact Gary @ Grimes Auto Marine in GA. He's got a deal they make that is adjustable, and will flow all of your excess so you don't have any problems. (770) 475-5272

WETTE VETTE

This is the water pressure valve I use. I put a tee after my oil cooler and before the cross over. I ran the tee run to the flow control shown. It is kinda hard to see against the black background. It is adjustable and dumps overboard. It is a Deltrol part number EF30B. It is made out of brass and has 1/2" NPT ports. I use 3/4" heater hose and crome plated brass fittings from CP perf. I made the tee out of aluminum on a lathe. It works great. I have it set at 23 psi at WOT. If I shut it off it runs at 32 psi. The valve can be purchased from a McMaster Carr catalog, or I could get one for you. Let me know if you are interested.

MIKEHTMSR24

Gary has spent a lot of time and developement on his system. Gary told me Mercury was looking at it. They have already bought some. He has a patent on it.
Wette Vette not to knock at all what you have done. It will work just fine probably for 99% of the time. BBBBut
Gary told me you need at least a 1" id on your dump system. He said if the boat airs out and then on reentry the motor will see a spike of water pressure. As high as 50 to 60 lbs. If the dump hose is not big enough it can't get rid of the pressure fast enough. My Grimes system runs at 18 lbs at wide open. He told me that 22 was a max. He also told me that blown head gaskets can be caused by this pressure being too high when the boat flies and then enters the water @ 50+ lbs. of water pressure. It ain't cheap but it is past me now. I can now run a thermostat and have correct engine block temp and correct water pressure with my crossover setup. Get an IR gun sometime and check your difference in head temps. You won't believe how much difference their is if you have a crossover set up. Gary has a cure for that also. Gary is a very good engine builder and knows car engines and also the other half. Boat engines.
My engine that Gary spec'd the parts for me
540ci
683 hp @5680
676 torque @ 4700

WETTE VETTE

Mike,
That is a sweet looking motor. Out of curiosity, where does Gary tap into the system to dump the water? To control pressure spikes on my motor I teed a 10 psi 3/4" check valve before my sea strainer. This will open and dump excess water at inlet pressures over 10 psi. I didn't mention this earlier because it really doesn't control the pressure, just gets rid of spikes. In my opinion the inlet side of the system is where spikes have to be relieved. If the spike makes it past the pump, the motor is going to see that spike. It may not even show up on the gauge. I have had great success on my motor which makes 700 Plus HP with 13:1 compression. It turns 6200 RPM at WOT, uses a stainless crossover with a 142 degree thermostat which maintains 150 degrees in all conditions. If it weren't right I would be into detonation in a hurry. I don't think it is real innovative, but as a hydraulics engineer it just makes sense. I am curious how his compares to mine. Here is a picture of the check relief on the inlet side of my strainer. If I knew someone had something like this available I would probably have bought it, but it wouldn't have been nearly as much fun as doing it myself. Nice picture in Hot Boat.

MIKEHTMSR24

I started out using a pressure relief valve from Mcmaster Carr. At the time they really didn't have one made for water totally but it worked pretty good except I couldn't get the engine temp thing goin on. Now they have valves made for water. They ain't cheap either. My system was set up like Gary does it.
After the oil cooler he fabbed a SS y pipe. One side going to the engine and the other side going to the custom built pressure relief valve and then to the dump at the transom. I bought a transom fitting that had an angle to it and put it over the outdrive. This adds more lake water to the drive for cooling along with my drive shower. All parts are 1.25". The valve and the tee and the dump.
Sounds like you are right on target with the way mine is set up.
With your background no wonder you come up with your own design. I just don't know if your system could handle the volume to dump that spike in the proper time frame.
I bought the 1" valve from McMaster Carr and should have bought the 1.25". Their was a big difference in price and I took the cheaper route. Gary didn't like the 1" NPT because this made the ID's too small. This valve he has is about 3 to 4 " in dia. and about 5 to 6 " long. Sorry don't have a camera or scanner to take pics.

WETTE VETTE

That sounds like a really cool system. You have mentioned it is kinda salty. How much we talkin? This is what I love about HP motor sports. It gives the average joe a chance to tinker and hopefully come up with some cool things. I personally spend more time tinkering on the boat and the corvette than I do driving them. Hopefully Mr. Cig has the answer he was looking for.

MrCIG

iTrader: (1)

Thanks so much for the responses. I see that it is more involved then what I thought.
I will have to look at my setup and see how i can incorporate these ideas on my motors. I have transmissions and coolers that are mounted on the trans housings.
I was thinking of just comming out of the intake manifold.
Do you think that would work or not.

Thanks
Mark

jdnca1

I use the same system Wette Vette has described on my 26 Carrea cat with a 900hp Naturally aspirated 632 Merlin. I had very high pressures and was getting leaks through the intake because of the excessive pressures. Went the no thermostat route which helped, but couldn't get any heat in the motor. Also tried coming out the intake manifold which worked, but sevelrly starved the CMI's. After Wette Vette and I installed this system on my boat, I was able to put my thermostat back in and simply adjust the Deltrol valve until max pressure came down to my target of 20 psi @100+ mph. No spike problems, no leaks through the intake, and no starvation to the CMI's. The best thing is its a fairly cheap set-up to copy. As a side note, based on my observations water pressure really begins to build as you cross 80 mph. As in 40% increases the next 25 mph. MikeHTM, that is a good looking motor, same colors as mine. Did you paint your intake or powder coat it?

MIKEHTMSR24

To the tune of 600 bucks. I spent about $140 on the pressure relief valve from McMaster-Carr. Transom dump and fittings went well over $200. I did end up selling it to someone who wasn't running a stat. My problem with my set up was the temp kept fluxuating. I drilled the holes and several different sizes on several stats. No luck. Gary has got a certain stat that he uses to keep temps level. Mine will start out warming up and stop at 180* then it will run about 140 to 150 all the time no matter what rpm. With my ID's being so large I have a lot of room to adjust my pressure. We started out at 14 psi and water tested it. Gary then took the valve apart (5 minutes) and bumped it up to about 18. You should see the water dumping on my outdrive. Megatons of water.
jdnca1, I have a large liquid filled water pressure gauge on the intake. I also have an electric water pressure gauge on the dash. It is not accurate but linier. Do you have a good gauge that you can see if yours does spike?
Will you be at Cumberland on 7/4? I will be up the whole week. Maybe if you are there we can hook up.
Base coat clear coat entire engine. 200 hours no problems.
Wette Vette you housier boy. I was borned in Corydon, IN.

Scotty Cannon's engine in his 25 talon (just like the red, white, and black one on Cumberland). #6 drive 135+ GPS. Scotty is the NHRA Oakley funny car driver. He boats on our lake. The Talon on Cumberland started out in northern IN and my buddy in SC bought it and took out the stock carbed 502 and had John Triplett (Louisville, KY) build a 510, 871 that ran it about 118 on Gaf. speedo.