Got a couple of the M77HV's for my winter project. What intermediate shaft should I order?? The box has a note that says you should run a "pinned" intermediate shaft, do you have a part number??

Guys, just as a heads up on these oil pump questions.
Here's a quick suggestion for those not sure which pump is better to use.
Buy or get a hold of a Melling MV77HV and a Melling 10778C. Take them apart and compare. You will quickly see visually first glance which is a better pump! and a better drive shaft setup, as well as oil pump pressure relief spring and adjustment. Just a quick suggestion.
If you can't see or understand the differences, you should not be fooling with engines and internals especialy oil pumps!

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

Pretty much any name brand aftermarket drive rod will be pinned. I use and ARP #135-7901. The stock ones are just turned down at the end and have a plastic sleeve covering the connection point. The good ones have a pin the engages in the pump and a steel sleeve covering it up. They are much, much stronger. The ARP is about $15.
Eddie

For those of us who don't have quick access to the two pumps mentioned, can you be more specific or possibly post a picture of what you are talking about?

Thanks Eddie.

With the ARP 135-7901 the sleeve is welded onto the shaft, correct?? No separate sleeve required?

I don't really have a lot of time right now to hold oil pump class 101, but i will just say that the Melling select series pumps, especially the 10778C unit solves many issues with the older HV series pumps, heres' a little info:
1. One of the big problems with the older pumps is that the shafts for both gears in the pump are unsupported on the cover end. What does this mean? When an oil pump is pumping hard at higher rpms especially with the higher viscosity oils that marine engines generaly use the two gears that actually mesh and pump the oil tend to be pushed away from each other under high loads. This in turn causes the gear faces to slowly get a top to bottom rounding and wear unevenly.
The gear spread then causes the top of the gears at the cover plate end to start digging into the carefully machined cover plate unevenly. If you've taken oil pumps apart over the years after use you see these conditions and the subsequent pressure losses and of course some more metal in the oil.
It's this unsupported at both ends shaft problem that is cured by Mellings new design, where the shafts now have extensions that go into carefully machined recesses in the top cover to support the shaft and gears at BOTH ENDS!
Whola! end of gear seperation and wear problems!
2. the 10778 also uses a hex drive oil pump drive shaft coupling between the intermediate shaft and the distributor drive. This in turn eliminates the old shaft wobble, misalignment and the many times breakage issues between the shafts and subsequent engine catastrophie!
3. the oil pump pressure relief on the 10778C has the spring ( by the way, throw the extra in the box away and do not use it, the standard one is just right!) held by a nice adjustable threaded plug so no more fooling around with rolled pins and washers to open and inspect plunger for burrs or such!

In all these items in Raylar's opinion make the Melling 10778C oil pump a far superior product to the older pump series and it requires no real modifications or fooling with to make a great pressure producing, long life oil pump system in any BBC wet sump system!

If you can inspect these two pumps you will see what I am explaining here and its easy to see the differences.

Hell I did it anyway!
Class Dismissed!

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

running at the mouth
Ray ,Eddie and others,Ive been told by a few of the big engine builders, like you, tell me that the BBC does not have a oiling Issue,but like most of us we are anal and it cant hurt doing all the tricks,oil drain back,I still believe in the 10778,after talking to 2 different engineers making sure I dont get to different answer's, the construction of the 10778 (the new series) is improved over the old hv series, The old style had powder casted parts in it, the new style has the steel parts,I was also told that all the HP pumps are tested,they are set at 75psi,also a 75psi spring..

Remember most boats have electric gages with vido senders.big variances.if ya run a mechanical gage/hose the length can cause a diff reading,if ya want to go off that end.

I did a lot of research ,I found that rod /main bearing clearance make a diff in pressure,My Hustler had Meling KE oil pumps and picks ups.bearing clearance was around .0025 .one was off ,changed the sender it changed, Ive never seen a fluctuation in pressure,if you see a jump its prob in the sender or spring valve chatter?

I tear down my motor down every winter,really for repolishing, there is no signs of a oil issue,the bearings look reusable,tight in the saddle and your usual shinnynest and little trash,I'm pushing my bottom end pretty heavy,850hp stock crank.

now ya have the billet pumps,300+.then do you really have a oil pan with kick out that would benefit that extra oil con toll

I thing the bottom end set up makes the most diff.these guys that do it every day see the stuff and I bet that most oil problems are bad Assembly.

Remember I'm just some Mississippi redneck Furniture boy

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...uild-up-2.html


and I need beer money and some money for Whipple stickers,,http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...ght-money.html

Heloo oil pump guru's! I have an oil pump (the good one as described above) that appears to drag slightly when rotating by hand (using a shaft made for spinning it). When I put it on the first time I swear it would rotate smooth. Removed pan, took pump back to bench for a close look. Everything looked fine and it felt smooth rotating it. I went and did some simple blueprinting to be certain it was ok. Put it back in and it was still smooth. Put oil in and the drag is back! wtf? I would say about 25% of the rotation has a slight drag when it's pumping oil. I hooked my drill to the tool and looked for surging oil pressure but it seems to be working perfectly. Anyone hear of such a thing? Engine #1 didn't do this.

Someone asked about drive shafts. For what it is worth my builder specified he wanted the Milodon shafts, so consider them in the absence of any other advice.