Alpha to Bravo swap, what to expect
#11
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Joined: Dec 2009
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Why are you putting in bravo gear?
You cant re-use any alpha stuff I mentioned. They are different. If your existing coupler is more than 10 years old and or if alignment hasnt been maintained it becomes a wear issue. Put a new one in while its easy.
You cant re-use any alpha stuff I mentioned. They are different. If your existing coupler is more than 10 years old and or if alignment hasnt been maintained it becomes a wear issue. Put a new one in while its easy.
#12
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,439
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From: yorkville,il
Is it neccessary to replace the couplers, or you just do it as a norm? My couplers still look new, and I'm not changing to more power, so the couplers shouldn't know any different if they are driving Alphas or Bravos, correct? Thinking that both drives use the same inner plate, transom plate and even the input shaft, I assume the shaft engages the coupler the same amount?
#13
Mike, here's the deal. Maybe this will explain some of my questions.
The boat is a 29', 10' beam 9000# (according to the brochure, seems high??) cruiser with twin 350's. I have to wonder if the Alphas are at their max limit, especially when getting on plain. But then it has been going since '95 with no problems as is. SOooo??
It is a water kept boat, so the drives are shot from corrosion and will be replaced with new aftermarkets, and I'm going to rebuild both transom assemblies. They have some corrosion that will require some part replacing too, but can still be under new pricing by 1/2. I've got all winter, so my time is not a factor here, other wise new units would be in order. I've been pricing out all my options, and can 'possibly' be into Bravos for less than $1k more for the added Bravo beef, providing I can use some of my parts such as couplers and a couple other items that are the same between both setups. Finding used seawater pumps and brackets will be the biggest obsticle w/o spending new money for them. I just replaced the transom that wasn't expected, and have been doing alot of other upgrades, so I'm trying to keep cost down where possible. Not trying to go cheap, just not replacing parts that I already have that are interchangeble and are in perfectly good condition. Plus every thing is doubled here. Now seems like the best time to upgrade to a Bravo IF I were to do so. Trying to decide which route is best, for THIS particular boat, keeping cost and boat value in check.
Thanks
The boat is a 29', 10' beam 9000# (according to the brochure, seems high??) cruiser with twin 350's. I have to wonder if the Alphas are at their max limit, especially when getting on plain. But then it has been going since '95 with no problems as is. SOooo??
It is a water kept boat, so the drives are shot from corrosion and will be replaced with new aftermarkets, and I'm going to rebuild both transom assemblies. They have some corrosion that will require some part replacing too, but can still be under new pricing by 1/2. I've got all winter, so my time is not a factor here, other wise new units would be in order. I've been pricing out all my options, and can 'possibly' be into Bravos for less than $1k more for the added Bravo beef, providing I can use some of my parts such as couplers and a couple other items that are the same between both setups. Finding used seawater pumps and brackets will be the biggest obsticle w/o spending new money for them. I just replaced the transom that wasn't expected, and have been doing alot of other upgrades, so I'm trying to keep cost down where possible. Not trying to go cheap, just not replacing parts that I already have that are interchangeble and are in perfectly good condition. Plus every thing is doubled here. Now seems like the best time to upgrade to a Bravo IF I were to do so. Trying to decide which route is best, for THIS particular boat, keeping cost and boat value in check.
Thanks
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 01-03-2010 at 11:15 AM.
#14
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: IAD/FLL
If you're REALLY not going to throw cams/etc into the motors while they're out, and you're REALLY not going to want to hammer the throttles a little harder once you get it all back together, I don't see the value going to Bravos.
But I agree, the coupler shouldn't know what drive is back there. The difference is in the torque rating - probably 300lbft for Alpha 400 for std Bravo.
The Alpha's weak link is shock loading - they don't like that. But they can handle power and weight more than most here give them credit.
But I agree, the coupler shouldn't know what drive is back there. The difference is in the torque rating - probably 300lbft for Alpha 400 for std Bravo.
The Alpha's weak link is shock loading - they don't like that. But they can handle power and weight more than most here give them credit.
#15
But I agree, the coupler shouldn't know what drive is back there. The difference is in the torque rating - probably 300lbft for Alpha 400 for std Bravo.
The Alpha's weak link is shock loading - they don't like that. But they can handle power and weight more than most here give them credit.
The Alpha's weak link is shock loading - they don't like that. But they can handle power and weight more than most here give them credit.
BTW, The motors run like new, start when keys are turned, so just oil changes. I agree the Alphas getting a bad rap in general. I know of several Pachangas with 454/ alphas and never a problem, but those boats are 1/4 of the weight.
On to the shock loading weak link....
Being a cruiser, I don't see shock load being a problem. Don't think wave jumping is a concern either. I never hammer out of the hole either, not that it would jump up on plain if I would. But when I do have a load of people, it can take some time to get over the hump, for then I have to push the throttles forward, but only after I've started moving forward. That's the grey area I'm unsure about. Power applied gadually, but all of it on those times of full loads. Lower pitched props might be better and sticking with the Alphas for simplicity?
Thanks!
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 01-03-2010 at 12:26 PM.
#16
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: IAD/FLL
Get the SEI Alphas and poor the coals on when you need to. Ideally the boat needs duoprops, but not cost effective. I know you've been around long enough to understand the tradeoffs with pitch changes. There ought to be plenty of sets around to try once you get it all back together.
What you need is more power to spin the props you already have. Vortec heads/intake/cam...or at least a torquier cam/intake setup.
Good luck with whatever you decide!
What you need is more power to spin the props you already have. Vortec heads/intake/cam...or at least a torquier cam/intake setup.
Good luck with whatever you decide!
#17
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 268
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From: Chatham.Ontario
I would just go alpha and save yourself some money. YOu shouldn't have a problem hasn't for 12 years and probably won't in the next 12. The bravos will slow you down too.
Qouted right from you.
"but I prefer not to replace parts to just be replacing them when there are no gains to be noticed."
And in your situation i don't see any real gains
Qouted right from you.
"but I prefer not to replace parts to just be replacing them when there are no gains to be noticed."
And in your situation i don't see any real gains




