whats next? looking for future up grades on 454
 

ok, i am on a tight budget and i like to plan my build ups and buy parts for them as i go. the engine as is will be running this spring but like i said i like to start collecting parts so i am looking for a game plan, keep in mind this is a tight budget build.

right now the lower end is a gen 6 454 that was a NON mag mpi block which means it is not a forged lower end, i have read allot saying that the crank should handle 5-600hp, not sure if thats true or not? the short block had 50 hours on it when i got it. i have added since then

the "vortec" style heads off a 99 mpi that i have had viatom seals installed, isky 8205 springs, locks, spacers, retianers, arp studs, scorpion roller rockers.......

crane 731 cam

crane hi-6m box

edelbrock air gap intake

holley 750

k&n flame arrestor

thunderbolt igntion setup

i think its a 14" oil cooler

permacool thermostat

gil exhuast

i used the stock valves, push rods and timing chain, all are low hour

here is a question i have, i was trying to find a cam lock plate to fit a gen vi motor and cant seem to locate one, are they not made? are they not needed since there is a retainer plate to hold the cam in?

i have considered going to a 496 stroker setup, there are many online for sale, are they any good? i dont think i need a forged crank?, i would like to be around 500-550hp and the cast stuff seems to be rated to at least that if not more. if i go that route i would like to build another short block and transfer all of my stuff of off my existing motor over to it. or maybe i should just stick to this setup? who knows. any comments or advice on whats next or should i be happy with the combo i have? it would be a goal of mine to be able to go 70ish, not sure how far off i am yet, i will know as soon as all of this snow melts

:coolcowboy: bump

I am currently building two 496 stroker engines and its not cheap. I would not use cast cranks or pistons on anything over 400HP.
You are going to need alot more to get to your 500-550 goals.
I hear you on the snow, it might melt by May at this pace.

yea this snow is just horrible this year, i am built for a warmer climate lol. how much do you think a stroker short block will run me? are hyperutecic pistons acceptable? i am not planning any boost or anything crazy

Get Forged pistons. Your 750 carb would be on the small side for a 496.

I am guessing cost wise, you may be better off buying a completely assembled shortblock 496 from someone like dynoflo or similar. You will have a NEW Dart block, Forged crank, pistons, etc. Everything NEW, assembled and balanced. I would imagine with buying a stroker kit, machine work, couple new parts here and there, it might get close in cost to just buy new. Plus you can always sell your old stuff off.

Only issue would be is your gen VI heads. I belive the dart blocks are gen IV style. Then again, you can sell your heads, and get some Dart Pro 1's or similiar. Basically a brand new motor and 550+HP all day long.

well if i get a short block then i can re use my heads. also if i go that route i am gonna hve to make sure it is a gen 6 motor so i can run my cam in it. it may be a good option though. also looking into finding a 502 block. found one that hada hole in the side of it, said it was wacked with a sludge hammer or something? not sure if that can be fixed, could have got it for 500 bucks though.

you can, but the little oval port heads were the worse thing chevy ever made.

you can buy 496, 4340 rotating asm. for around 2k. you heads and intake are the key to all your power though. Vortec heads even hold back a 454.

NEVER buy a block that needs repair unless you know what your doing.

I ran an add in the paper looking for 502's. Only had two responces, first one an old farmer who had a 402 in an old car in the barn, the second a guy in town had one in a burned up truck for $700 which would be a good deal but I needed a pair. That is why I decied to keep my block and oil pan and build a couple of strokers.
Like mentioned above
Rotating assembly $2,000
Dart Pro 1 Heads $2,500
Cam & lifters $1,000
Machine work and all the other goodies adds up fast X 2.

well if i need 2k for the rotating assembly i dont think it will cost much more then 500 in machine work, i will assemble it myself so i am at oir around 2500, thats about what i was looking for at the top of my budget. does that guy in town still have that 502? if so do you know if its a gen V or VI? thats part of the reason i have not gone bigger yet, with twins everything costs double! i am trying to solve my oil line issues, i am thinking -10 push lock fittings and i would love to find a cam bolt lock plate but i cant find one anywhere, i would think this would be a common part but i guess not. i need this snow to go away so i can get out and make a list of what i have left to get running

My buddy has a couple bare GEN VI 502 blocks like new. If your interested, i'll call him and get a price.

He has the large oval vortec heads. Those are pretty good heads for what he is doing. The peanut port heads are the ones that suck.

I thought you just got this thing back together. I usually wait till I blow somthing up till I do somthing with it. :lolhit: Actually last year I took a perfectly good running engine apart to put a roller cam in. I gained 5 MPH so it was well worth it. If I were you I would bore and stroke it to a 489 or 496, definatly get forged pistons, crank and rods (h-beam). With the cam and heads you have that should put you near the 500HP mark. You have small chambers (about 100cc) with the vortec heads so flat top pistons would work fine. Make sure you upgrade your oiling system. When the economy pics up I may consider getting a 502 block and switching all my stroker parts (All I would need are new pistons) over to the new bock to get a 540CI+ engine. :D It never ends......
This is unrelated, did you raise your x dim when you rebuilt you transom?

yea i just got the motor put together and have not even ran it yet, i have cabin fever and i could be working on a engine in my shop so i have been more or less just been putting togther a plan so i can start collecting parts for the next short block. as far as the oiling system goes, what else should i be looking for? i have the 18" cooler, i have a block adapter with built in thermostat and no remote filter (before i mentioned the wrong thermostat) and i am running -10 fittings/hose for the lines. if i can truely get to the 500 mark and run a true 70 mph that is all i want/need (for now, lol) i am not ready to spend the money to do k planes and external stering just yet and maybe not until the next boat.

jeff you asked about the transom, i am not sure what the x dimm means but i replaced it pretty much exactly how the factory had done it except sealed up allot better, after my transom and helping with a buddies 98 25 outlaw i am not impressed with bajas fiberglassing as far as sealing up potential rot locations. there were however reasons for both rotting out though.

thanks for the replies to everyone!

You can run a cast crank at 500hp no problem. Ive run full cast motors at 500hp before with no ill effects. Just make sure you run a rev limiter. Not only HP stresses a motor, it is the combination of RPM's and HP that will take it's toll on your crank, rods, and pistons. So as long as you are smooth with the throttle and are careful with your water re-entry you will be fine. The question to ask is, what else will you want to upgrade in the future? If you ever see a blower or anything else in your future that will dramatically raise HP you might want to bite the bullet and go forged now so you dont have to later.

I would spend money differently than some suggest. I'm mostly in agreement with outlawman. I run scat cast cranks, forged pistons in one engine, KB hypers in the other. 650-700hp per engine spinning about 5400rpm with 6psi and 9.5:1 compression. Last run of the yr WOT for many miles. Melted 5 forged pistons, hypers are fine. Cranks are fine after 5yrs of wicked abuse. I'd focus $$ on inconnel exh valves, good exhaust system, cometic head gaskets and maybe forged rods with the 7/16 rod bolt. Make sure you get the assembly balanced and run a large, thermostatically controlled oil cooler. Set the quench up at no more than .040" to avert detonation and destruction.

Thats great, I had not realized you got the better parts for the oiling system. You should be set with that part.
I am doing my transom project right now, it takes a little extra work on the ouside to raise the engine and drive. I should gain about 6MPH by raising it up 3".

just curious on what kind of wood you are using on the transom?

on the oiling system i was able to save some cash by not relocating the oil filter, now i only need 4 fittings and hose. also less spots for failure.

now i just need some warmer weather!

Marine Ply with 9 plys void free. Very heavy but very strong.