[QUOTE=Irishtornado;3019740]3000 watts of stereo is why I need 5 batteries...I could probably ditch 1, but the 2 main ones in the engine compartment I have to have for the stereo or all I hear is CLICK CLICK when I go to start it. I'm guessing you mean 3-4 inches in prop height not pitch. I had 496HO's before the 500efi's I have a set of 30's labbed by Bblades that I was spinning 4700rpm's with the HO's. I'm guessing it's going to be close and need a little tweeking, but of course I don't know jackchit...I do know there is what I would call a "rocker" about 5-6ft from the transom a hump in the bottom from gunwale to V rises about 1/2" off the bottom and then there are the built in hooks in front of the tabs. Thats all I can find with a 6' straight edge while its on the trailer. Boat has always had a hardtime getting on plane as well. Usually I have to use tabs full down to make it easy on drives. 280 Kplanes[/QUO ****************************** I have never herd of any 302 haveing to use tabs like that .you should have had 28s labbed with all that weight and I would of bet it would have went faster 4700 is lugged down the motors .dont make to many changes at once ,its hard to tell what worked and what didnt.if the boxes raise you x and the shorty raise it moreyou wont even get on plain with a 4 blade When you put the new motors in out all four batterys behind the seat .My swim platform sits 6 inches lower then any other 33 ol I found that the boat went faster with 3 more people I move everthing back added strainers ,sshatch mirrors Diamound plate on the back of my seat 55 lb dumbells ,one on each side as counter weight for my ac ,porcein head 20 inch flat screen ,microwave fridge some other **** it does have a long porpois in the70,s in flat water only, when I approch 80 mph the boat gets real light 97 its like an arrow real smooth then I have to work for a few more last day out I saw 99.8 she will go right to 96 /97 with a fuel tank and 3 adults Man its a rush my harts beating just talking about it

[QUOTE=crayolacrazy;3020227]The YouTube video's are with 28p labbed 4blades. It stands on it's ass if I don't use the tabs. Batteries are under rear bench and on both sides of motors. Only thing I have in cuddy is fridge, porta potty and sub box built under Vberth

Sounds like my problem..Downside is I don't have 3g's to fix it right now..Blew my budget on power and drives.

my boat did the exact same thing ,until you straight edge the bottom we are all guessing .I would say its a small rocker as small as 1/8 in the strakes I also lengthened my strakes it went slower we cut out thethe new work The way I found my issues the boat was on stands and i took a picture from the back to the front showing the glare where ever there was a shadow it was a rocker on the pad it was only 1/8 in 11 feet It shouldnt cost that much to fix I got real tired of takeing the boat to people that didnt care so I learned how to do it my self call me 412 7810881

i had the same problem before i had my hull bp'd. Ihad to use tab to get on plan and it porpoised like crazy. I also had hooks someone built into the hull in front of the tabs.

Mine has hooks in front of the tabs too. I think the person that put mine there was named Baja.:lolhit:

So who did repairs to there boat and what were the results? What were the costs and did it solve the problems?

Finally some nice weather today to lay under the boat Ben. How would one dertermine CG? What do you think of me just adding 5' to the strake as a start point? It seems like any additional length would help with the chine walk. Thoughts?

Hang you boat in a single strap in a Travel Lift at any marina with your normal set up for speed...two people in the boat and 30 gals of fuel? You just lift the boat and move the strap until the hull clears the water and the boat is balanced. Measure from the transom to the center of the strap. If you do this ($50 +/-), you can likely hit the right strake length on the first pass.

You let me know when you wanna take a look at it. I can't move it right now, but if your guessing you could take care of a few things lets talk in the spring. Your boat runs impressive thats for sure.

Ahh, thanks. So what would be the affect of a strake lengthened too far? No bow lift?

Yes...

Well this project is out due to cost...I don't know who's finding its affordable to do this, but with everything else I have going on(repowering, boxes, fixing things) there's just no money left to spend especially close to $1000 a foot which is pretty much what I've been quoted across the board. So this is definately a next year project assumming the economy picks up so my business will as well. Sorry if I've wasted anyones time, but spending all the money on the boat leaves none to enjoy it..

Here's the plan. It seems like all the hook is in the last 4-5" near the transom. I am going to get that ground out like panther did and re gelled. We will see what change that makes. The new strakes are in transit to me at 6' each made out of red oak. If the chine problem still exists with the hook removed and my new full hydro steering, I will try the strakes. How is it you can screw these to the bottom BenPerfected? It seems that would be weak. How thick is the bottom?

PS your strake templates will arrive back with my new strakes BP. I'll get them on their way back to you right away when I get them. It should be this week. I'll shoot you a PM for the ship to addy. Thanks for lending them to me, that was nice of you and made a very difficult task simple.

BT

Don't give up yet Irish. My boat is heading to the shop next week. I am trying to work a deal with the guy to do both.

Blue,
No hurry, I just want them long term. What was suggested to us was the following process that worked great. Buy a quart of white gel coat and a bag of Cabisil (can't spell it but is a finely ground F/G). First, cut to lenght and pre-drill the oak (about 12" centers) and countersink for wood screws that allow the screws to go about 3/8 " into the hull....you will not go thru the hull but it really doesn't matter as you will fill the holes anyway. Dry fit and screw on the strake extensions and then remove. Sand the bottom where the strake extension will mount....we used a cheap power hand sander.
You now mix the gel coat with the hardener and stir in Cabisil until it is a paste. Put the paste on one oak strake and stick/screw it in-place...remove the excess paste before it hardens. Use more paste on the top surface of the strake to smooth the transition and add surface hardness. Repeat with second strake. Use the sander to clean up the installed strake. You are now ready to test.
There is nothing you will be doing that won't sand off the hull.

Seems simple enough BP. What did you do with the area where new strake and old strake meet? Grind out and square off the old strake so the new one butts up tight? What did you do to make the strake extension permanent once you were happy with the length?

BT

Blue,
We just butted the wood strake to the existing strake. We were doing this in the field so our butt joint was somewhat sloppy. I think maybe an 1/8" gap or a notch at the joint that you fill with the paste might be best. It isn't really important that everything is perfect as this is mostly an effort to find the right length. The goal is for 2-3 degrees of bow lift with close to zero porpoise in smooth water. I would test with 50-75 gal of fuel...whatever you usually run.
If you have the option, a video camera from a stationary boat while you make a run is very helpful to replay the testing. It will easily show even a small porpoise by viewing the spray coming off the stake....is it moving fore and aft?
When you are finished testing, the wood is removed and you have to now build the strakes in F/G. If this is going to a DIY project, I know some F/G guys that would explain the strake build process. Our install and testing was all done on the trailer.
Ben

I think I need to change the name of my boat to ""Budget Blown" let me know