Bottom Blueprinting
 

Has anyone done this and what kind of costs are involved. Who is best to do the work. Just wondering what it would take to have it done to a 30ft. Any perfromance gains handling and speed has anyone seen from this type of work. I think it woild be ideal to have the tweeked just right and run low power. I live in the northeast

Expect to pay between 3000-6000 to have this done. Depending how bad it is.

My boat with 4 ft level is not perectly flat. there is 2 curves in, about 1/16 inch in the 4 ft secton 1 ft up from the vee. One spot is a little worse, looks like some kind of touch up.
Anyone in pa Nj do this kind of work or is this minor. Iwill run it for now but in the future i may really try to dial in my boat. Both sides seem to be the same. Manufactures should fine tune there bottoms out of the mold, it would be pretty simple at that point.

We do that kind of work. I am located in NE PA.. The price depends on the amount of work involved. Price would really depend on how much bottom work is required on yours. ;)

I am doing a blue print on a boat currently in our shop. If you want to look into it further with me, feel free to give me a call. Anyplace in Jersey is a pretty easy drive to us.. :)

Jamie / Lakeside Restorations 570-639-2628

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If you are going to blueprint the bottom, I would recommend you have the last 8 feet of the bottom completed. To really capatilize on the "new bottom" you also want the work on the ideal X....just money :eek:

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/v...g-results.html <----link. try the search button ;)

it was worth every penny and I would do it again in a heart beat.

So according to your post you only paid $700.00. I guess I"ll be calling these guys tomorrow cause everywhere else I've talked to they quote over the phone 3000-6000.00 depending on the amount of work.

My boat is quite a bit smaller than yours but yes I paid just over $700 for the job. We brought in 2 boats for him to do so I think he may have given me a little price break. Last I talked to him he charges $50 an hour plus material, which I thought was quite reasonable. Everytime I've been in there he was working on skaters, outerlimits and cigarettes if that tells you anything. Chris is top notch.

Edit: I know a lot of other guys do the entire hull while Chris only does the running surface which may make quite a price difference.

Well I have me and a buddy that both wanna get this done, so I'll give him a call his prices seem very reasonable and he's close to me. Even if it's double what yours cost it's still half of what my minimum quote is and I like your #'s you got from doing it.

There ya go! :drink: Believe me the numbers aren't near as impressive as the handling/ride quality difference. Chris is topnotch, believe me he'll make sure you and your buddy are taken care of. Tell him Erick with the 22' velocity recommended him, he should get a kick out of it.

Talked to Chris today roughly 2500-3500 is what he's quoting on the phone. You must've not had much bottom work done.

pick up my heads at Tyler Crockets and bring me your boat ill do the last 6 feet 1500 to 2000 I have a gallon of ice white left it would be nice to see a picture of your boat running I like to see where the water brakes and . Most 302,s run high and dry allready so if you see any hooks or rocker in the bottom this would be a good thing . since you have an 03 I would say a shorty would work

Wow, I don't know what the big price dif would be. My boats shorter but not 4 to five times smaller. I had some rockers and hooks in my hull, he actually said it was pretty bad. I'm cornfused:(

Yea me too...Was actually shocked:eek: sorta was figuring double..

Here's a couple pics of it running...

No he did not have much done and the reason being issssssssssss Chris , mostly removed an add on that somebody else put on the bottom of the hull before Erick purchased the boat that was not in the mold which was causing the boat to handle badly and scrap speed and this is why the job was only $700 to do . I would also like to mention , that if everybody does the Math at 50 dollars an hour to blueprint a bottom which comes to 14 hr's of labor Plus material's that is like going to K mart for the blue light special and to tell you the truth , i can not think of any glass guy out there blueprinting a bottom for that price .

Dave , before people can give you a direct quote they really have to look at the bottom of your boat and if the shigles on the bottom of your boat were built into the mold considering your boat is an outlaw hull and the part was pulled green like the people from Baja told you and you want the strakes razor sharp along with the transom edge done and the glass work that is envolved after removing the shingles and putting the bottom back in jell Your boat is not going to be a straight forward blueprint job . Dave , if you can get your boat done for 15 hundred to 2 K from CRAYOLACRAZY , i Strongly suggest that you just might want to go for it . Dave , i also see that you were asking OFFSHORE GINGER , ( Artie ) on Serious offshore about blueprinting your bottom and might i mention that Artie has over 30 years experience doing fiberglass repair and before you make a choice Art has been blueprinting bottoms for years along with adding strakes and pads to boats when he worked at Skater and has a few threads out there showing the work he has done on the old Don Q Rum and in fact he added the lifting strakes to that hull . Hi Steve .

Dave just remember that not everybody see's the same gains and realistically nobody can ever gurantee how much speed you will achieve from blueprinting the bottom because every boat is different .

Thanks for all the replys.

Aren't most of your gains at WOT fully trimmed?

I noticed a difference as soon as the boat got on plain. My boat was very sensitive to every little ripple in the water before, jet ski wake would make it shift back and forth. Now its just goes thru the water smooth as can be and it did increase my cruising speed slightly. But like you say the biggest difference was at wot. My bow used to wonder and it would chine walk REALLY easy. Now at WOT i could take my hands off the wheel if I dared, there's no effort to keeping it on the pad. Of course the best part is the MPH I gained fulled trimmed and wot.:coolcowboy:

You arent at full throttle in that picture are you? If you are, how much fuel and people are you carrying? ...the whole damn boat is in the water.

FWIW - the water at 70 MPH breaks about 2-3 feet behind me on my 342

Here's another picture with 3 people full of fuel and 3 coolers I'm WFO here...

I will take some pictures this weekend and see what it looks like. Once you have the boxes and shorties on it will all be different anyway...

Mine has a healthy hook and I am contemplating getting it removed this winter or doing it myself. Right now not much of the boat is in the water at WOT and I believe more will be in the water after hook removal. The quote I got last winter was 2k to fix the bottom. Last year I did the raising of the x dimension like Ben perfected said and gained 10mph along with new camshafts.

Here she is north of 90mph. She can get quite a bit of chine walk going if the water is too flat. As you can see, not much panther in the water.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbCfHt242pY

Runs well. I like your other utube pass that you made. It looked like the conditions were perfect for a high speed pass. I would like to hit 94 with my 32 however for now I have to be content with 80 and that's a guess since it never hit the water last year with my new 496 builds.

This one is better if you like to hear my built by me mills ;) I knew you would appreciate that getrdunn. It just doesn't show the lack of boat in the water quite as well. More chop is actually better for my rig with the bottom as is. I was getting a bit of walk that day which causes me to have to back out as you could hear me do in this vid.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_0deyyZoZ4

what I would do is find the center of gravity ,move as much weight to the back you need bow lift ,it looks to flat .after you find your CG you would want to shorten the lower two lifting strakes Think of it like a lever with the CG being the pivit point the ferther back the CG the less wetted surface,the boats being pushed always to the surface .I hope this helps ,easy way to prove this is put 2 80lb sandbags beside the engines what kind of power do you have and what else are doing,WE had my 33ol with ac porcelin head, microwave 20 inch flat screen sink and fridge 75 mph to78 with stock 496 ho,s spinning 30 labbed turning in and its 1.5 mph faster with people in the back seat

Problem is there's not much I can move without taking out the galley pack and the porta potty. I have 3 batteries under rear bench and 2 in the engine compartment otherwise thats it...And of course normal gear for a weekend away, but I know clothes don't weigh that much. Thats how the boat has always ran no matter what..

I'm putting 500efi's in it and Imco boxes and shorties. Drive height is 7.25" right now. I know nothing about the bottom and won't claim to, so it's definately not something I'm willing to take on.

Blue,
In your video, it looks like you are running out of bottom (strake support). Can you stop your video (side view) and pick a reference point where the spray leaves the bottom? If you are porpoising, the spray will appear to be moving forward and aft. With our boat. the inner stake was way short (designed for 60-70 MPH) and at 85-90+ MPH you are losing stability and scrubbing speed. You can test by lengthening the strakes by screwing and glueing (gel coat paste) short pieces of oak to the existing inner strakes until you get control. We started by picking a strake length that was 1/2 way between the forward and aft spray points. You can see the spray points best by starting and stopping your video and splitting the difference. After the final testing, we had the strakes permanently lengthened almost 5' :eek: from the length out of Wellcraft mold. Another method is to just put your oak test strakes at about 12" behind the CG...you will be close.
If you want to pursue this, we have two 12" pieces of oak that we have on the shelf that match the factory strake you could borrow to get some wood cut locally.
Ben

Dave , you really need to post some pics of the areas where the shingles are that you want removed and to tell you the truth it just might be a good idea to hold off on the bottom until you test the boat with the new boxes and motors just to see where you are at, and go from there .

Thats a good thought Ben. If you look at this vid it looks like the spray is exiting maybe 6-12" from the transom. The boat is almost completely out of the water. The blue strip is the end of the side of the boat. I'll study this some more. I guess you are suggesting I need to lengthen the strake to fix the walk as opposed to eliminate the hook?

PS Allicat38 - sorry for the HJ. If its a problem I will take my discussion off line or to a new thread. Just say the word.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHkTn7YeZuU

why in the world do you have 5 batterys, yachts dont have that many ,maybe 3 anyways after you make your changes you can meet me at the lake maybe near put in bay I have a place in Marblehead will dial her in I have lots of props ,just adding the power will change the additude of the boat My 302 ran 74 with454 mags only 2 batterys HA HA, with the new hp you should need to go up about 3 to4 inches

3000 watts of stereo is why I need 5 batteries...I could probably ditch 1, but the 2 main ones in the engine compartment I have to have for the stereo or all I hear is CLICK CLICK when I go to start it. I'm guessing you mean 3-4 inches in prop height not pitch. I had 496HO's before the 500efi's I have a set of 30's labbed by Bblades that I was spinning 4700rpm's with the HO's. I'm guessing it's going to be close and need a little tweeking, but of course I don't know jackchit...I do know there is what I would call a "rocker" about 5-6ft from the transom a hump in the bottom from gunwale to V rises about 1/2" off the bottom and then there are the built in hooks in front of the tabs. Thats all I can find with a 6' straight edge while its on the trailer. Boat has always had a hardtime getting on plane as well. Usually I have to use tabs full down to make it easy on drives. 280 Kplanes

I also have a BAD bounce when running trimmed up as this video shows..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyP5c...eature=related

http://www.youtube.com/user/nightlif.../4/fURqm-UVloY

Keep in mind that my boat is loaded down for a weekend on the water, but it almost always rides like this...I call it the "BAJA BOUNCE" I'm guessing it's something to do with the bottom, but again I know nothing about bottom blueprinting reason for this thread I guess.

Rocker will cause pospoising like you have. Hook will cause the bow to stay low bow steer if bad enough.

Now that's some valuable info dude!!!!!!!

I blueprinted the bottom on my last Scarab back in 99' timeframe and picked up a little. I had healthy hook across most of the stern... I ground it all out flat, deep enough that I hit the cheese cloth (had to fill that in..:lolhit:) and sharpened all the strakes... It's been a good 10 years but I think I gained 3-4 mph from doing it! :drink:

[QUOTE=Irishtornado;3019740]3000 watts of stereo is why I need 5 batteries...I could probably ditch 1, but the 2 main ones in the engine compartment I have to have for the stereo or all I hear is CLICK CLICK when I go to start it. I'm guessing you mean 3-4 inches in prop height not pitch. I had 496HO's before the 500efi's I have a set of 30's labbed by Bblades that I was spinning 4700rpm's with the HO's. I'm guessing it's going to be close and need a little tweeking, but of course I don't know jackchit...I do know there is what I would call a "rocker" about 5-6ft from the transom a hump in the bottom from gunwale to V rises about 1/2" off the bottom and then there are the built in hooks in front of the tabs. Thats all I can find with a 6' straight edge while its on the trailer. Boat has always had a hardtime getting on plane as well. Usually I have to use tabs full down to make it easy on drives. 280 Kplanes[/QUO ********************************** I have never herd of any 302 haveing to use tabs like that .you should have had 28s labbed with all that weight and I would of bet it would have went faster 4700 is lugged down the motors .dont make to many changes at once ,its hard to tell what worked and what didnt.if the boxes raise you x and the shorty raise it moreyou wont even get on plain with a 4 blade When you put the new motors in out all four batterys behind the seat .My swim platform sits 6 inches lower then any other 33 ol I found that the boat went faster with 3 more people I move everthing back added strainers ,sshatch mirrors Diamound plate on the back of my seat 55 lb dumbells ,one on each side as counter weight for my ac ,porcein head 20 inch flat screen ,microwave fridge some other **** it does have a long porpois in the70,s in flat water only, when I approch 80 mph the boat gets real light 97 its like an arrow real smooth then I have to work for a few more last day out I saw 99.8 she will go right to 96 /97 with a fuel tank and 3 adults Man its a rush my harts beating just talking about it