|
Originally Posted by BenPerfected
(Post 3025415)
Hang you boat in a single strap in a Travel Lift at any marina with your normal set up for speed...two people in the boat and 30 gals of fuel? You just lift the boat and move the strap until the hull clears the water and the boat is balanced. Measure from the transom to the center of the strap. If you do this ($50 +/-), you can likely hit the right strake length on the first pass.
|
Originally Posted by blue thunder
(Post 3026053)
Ahh, thanks. So what would be the affect of a strake lengthened too far? No bow lift?
|
Well this project is out due to cost...I don't know who's finding its affordable to do this, but with everything else I have going on(repowering, boxes, fixing things) there's just no money left to spend especially close to $1000 a foot which is pretty much what I've been quoted across the board. So this is definately a next year project assumming the economy picks up so my business will as well. Sorry if I've wasted anyones time, but spending all the money on the boat leaves none to enjoy it..
|
Originally Posted by BenPerfected
(Post 3018932)
Blue,
In your video, it looks like you are running out of bottom (strake support). Can you stop your video (side view) and pick a reference point where the spray leaves the bottom? If you are porpoising, the spray will appear to be moving forward and aft. With our boat. the inner stake was way short (designed for 60-70 MPH) and at 85-90+ MPH you are losing stability and scrubbing speed. You can test by lengthening the strakes by screwing and glueing (gel coat paste) short pieces of oak to the existing inner strakes until you get control. We started by picking a strake length that was 1/2 way between the forward and aft spray points. You can see the spray points best by starting and stopping your video and splitting the difference. After the final testing, we had the strakes permanently lengthened almost 5' :eek: from the length out of Wellcraft mold. Another method is to just put your oak test strakes at about 12" behind the CG...you will be close. If you want to pursue this, we have two 12" pieces of oak that we have on the shelf that match the factory strake you could borrow to get some wood cut locally. Ben PS your strake templates will arrive back with my new strakes BP. I'll get them on their way back to you right away when I get them. It should be this week. I'll shoot you a PM for the ship to addy. Thanks for lending them to me, that was nice of you and made a very difficult task simple. BT |
Originally Posted by Irishtornado
(Post 3039186)
Well this project is out due to cost...I don't know who's finding its affordable to do this, but with everything else I have going on(repowering, boxes, fixing things) there's just no money left to spend especially close to $1000 a foot which is pretty much what I've been quoted across the board. So this is definately a next year project assumming the economy picks up so my business will as well. Sorry if I've wasted anyones time, but spending all the money on the boat leaves none to enjoy it..
|
Blue,
No hurry, I just want them long term. What was suggested to us was the following process that worked great. Buy a quart of white gel coat and a bag of Cabisil (can't spell it but is a finely ground F/G). First, cut to lenght and pre-drill the oak (about 12" centers) and countersink for wood screws that allow the screws to go about 3/8 " into the hull....you will not go thru the hull but it really doesn't matter as you will fill the holes anyway. Dry fit and screw on the strake extensions and then remove. Sand the bottom where the strake extension will mount....we used a cheap power hand sander. You now mix the gel coat with the hardener and stir in Cabisil until it is a paste. Put the paste on one oak strake and stick/screw it in-place...remove the excess paste before it hardens. Use more paste on the top surface of the strake to smooth the transition and add surface hardness. Repeat with second strake. Use the sander to clean up the installed strake. You are now ready to test. There is nothing you will be doing that won't sand off the hull. |
Seems simple enough BP. What did you do with the area where new strake and old strake meet? Grind out and square off the old strake so the new one butts up tight? What did you do to make the strake extension permanent once you were happy with the length?
BT |
Blue,
We just butted the wood strake to the existing strake. We were doing this in the field so our butt joint was somewhat sloppy. I think maybe an 1/8" gap or a notch at the joint that you fill with the paste might be best. It isn't really important that everything is perfect as this is mostly an effort to find the right length. The goal is for 2-3 degrees of bow lift with close to zero porpoise in smooth water. I would test with 50-75 gal of fuel...whatever you usually run. If you have the option, a video camera from a stationary boat while you make a run is very helpful to replay the testing. It will easily show even a small porpoise by viewing the spray coming off the stake....is it moving fore and aft? When you are finished testing, the wood is removed and you have to now build the strakes in F/G. If this is going to a DIY project, I know some F/G guys that would explain the strake build process. Our install and testing was all done on the trailer. Ben |
Originally Posted by indywhsle
(Post 3067261)
Don't give up yet Irish. My boat is heading to the shop next week. I am trying to work a deal with the guy to do both.
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:16 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.