Ben,

Mine are polished and I could get the bung welded in but with the hours I have on them I'm thinking of going new to protect the engines.

Thanks
Mark

Thanks for the feedback. I'll let you guys know what I find out.

I'm doing the same Mark, mine are 2000 and its just time for me to upgrade, Teague has them 2 ways, with the merc welded water pipes, or the ones with rubber that have clamps. the factory merc weld is a 200 doller per set upgrade. I will put both my old sets up for sale after I test them for the price of one new set, so for the bargain shopper there ya go, I'm sure you should as well.

We will beat anyones advertised pricing for CMI headers.. Bigger stock and better prices than anyone!

Yes we are on the exact same page.

I learned something interesting today. The welded tubes are a Mercury ONLY item. The reason for them is if your water pump fails the first thing to catch fire are the rubber tubes on the bottom of the non-Mercury units. I think it is worth the extra money.

Thanks and good luck

Yep, i didnt know that until Eric Told me, I agree well worth it, still very easy to drain down. Merc Engenering sure paid off for that one.

oh and I have the bung welded on my tailpipes, and just keep an old O2 senser in it.

Be careful that you have enough clearance on all four fixed SS water manifolds. I think you mat be worrying about a non-issue. If you use the CMI SS water line manifold and the CMI short hoses that can be trimmed, you have the flexibility to trim the hoses to length if needed to clear your rigging, stringers, etc.
If your water supply stops long enough to burn up the short 1" rubber 90 degree connector hoses, you have likely already incurred significant heat damage to multiply components....and likely the engines.

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Anyone can beat advertised prices...

I'll have to call them. I need a few sets of clamps. I noticed those things really vary in pricing. My 4 CMI tails are selling on ebay for about the cost of new clamps.