Blown Oil Cooler
#1
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From: Atlanta,GA
Started up the engines today and blew an oil cooler and water got mixed in the oil.Caught it after about a minute or so and was only at idle.Removed as much oil as I could and would like to know if anybody has any suggestions of anything else I need to do.I figure I will replace the cooler and refill engine with oil and new filter.Probably do it a coulpe times,anything else I need to do.Thanks Fishead
#2
Welcome to my world. First off, did the engine run long enough to emulsify the water into the oil? If no, and the water readily seperates from the oil, do what you said. If the oil and water are emulsified you need to find a way to "cut" the slug that is now in your engine. Kerosine is always an option. Don't start engine though, just fill (gallon or so) and shake engine best you can. Best if you can drain kero through drain plug in pan, use vacuum, if necessary. Then change oil many, many times. 3-5 I would do. Hopefully you caught it before it became emulsified.
Good Luck,
BT
Good Luck,
BT
#3
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From: Atlanta,GA
Unfortunately the oil and water came out in a milky concoction.I guess I need to do the Kerosene deal.Should I pull off the intake manifold and pour it in the lifter valley or add it to the valve covers and run the oil pump by puling off the distrubutor or just crank the engine over without starting.I think the oil primer would do best I would hate to turn the engine over without oil but I guess the Kerosene would lube the bearings.Let me know what you think.Thanks
#4
I would not run the motor or even crank it over with kerosene in it. I would pull the distributor and turn the oil pump with a primer tool. I prefer the homemade type of primer made from an old distributor. Those thin shaft type primers that attach to the oil pump are not very good, they don't pump oil to all the lifters. Without a distributor in place, the oil dumps out of the rear main oil galley and drops back into the pan. If you cut up a distributor, the oiling system works as designed. After you run the kerosene through the motor ( you can also use automatic transmission fluid ) I would run fresh motor oil a few times using the same method with the primer. Leave running the motor for last until you get as much contaminated oil out as possible.
#5
fishead,
I am not sure I would run the oil pump with the kerosene in the motor.. not sure how that will affect the bearings.. I would wash the motor out.. with the kerosene and maybe run a 10wt oil in the pump to wash out the gook in the oil galleries.. just prime the pump and turn the motor over by hand.. well have a buddy run the drill on the pump and turn it over..
By chance were you running a synthetic oil..that would be in your favor.. if not flush it good. Pull the valve covers and look for water in the low areas. take a peek down into the intake valley.. The water will seperate from the oil after a while. I have seen water and moisture build up.. a paper towel will suck up the water and oil..
I ran my motor on a test stand once and was trying a set of Gil headers.. got some terrible reversion. Milky oil... I ran the motor for about 5-10 min. I drained the oil and ran it again to figure out what was going on with the reversion.. Well I went thru a case of oil in the process, but I didnt get too carried away with the wash out and i didnt have any problems with bearings.. So go the extra mile.. you should be ok..
Unless someone else has had a bad experience with it.. let us both know about it..
Good luck man..
Dick
I am not sure I would run the oil pump with the kerosene in the motor.. not sure how that will affect the bearings.. I would wash the motor out.. with the kerosene and maybe run a 10wt oil in the pump to wash out the gook in the oil galleries.. just prime the pump and turn the motor over by hand.. well have a buddy run the drill on the pump and turn it over..
By chance were you running a synthetic oil..that would be in your favor.. if not flush it good. Pull the valve covers and look for water in the low areas. take a peek down into the intake valley.. The water will seperate from the oil after a while. I have seen water and moisture build up.. a paper towel will suck up the water and oil..
I ran my motor on a test stand once and was trying a set of Gil headers.. got some terrible reversion. Milky oil... I ran the motor for about 5-10 min. I drained the oil and ran it again to figure out what was going on with the reversion.. Well I went thru a case of oil in the process, but I didnt get too carried away with the wash out and i didnt have any problems with bearings.. So go the extra mile.. you should be ok..
Unless someone else has had a bad experience with it.. let us both know about it..
Good luck man..
Dick
#6
If you do any of what was said here, you will be ok. The only thing I would add is after you refill the motor with oil and run it the first time (getting it plenty hot) change the oil and filter one more time. This will only be a distant memory after that!
BT
BT
#7
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From: Atlanta,GA
Okay here is what I did.Took out as much oil and water mixture as I could.Then took out distributor and poured in 2 Gallons of Kerasene.I have 8 quart oil pans.Ran the oil pump with a primer and drill.Even took off the remote oil filter to make sure lines are clean.Put new filter back on and continued circulating for about five minutes.Then emptied oil pans and repeated the process.After emptying again filled with oil and new filter and ran engine up to temp.Oil was thin because you just cannot get all the kerosene out.Emptied the pan once again.Tommorrow I will pull the boat out on a more level surface and make sure everything is out of the pan and will refill again with new filter.Everything runs just fine.Oil pressure is 55 at idle when cold which was normal and down to mabout 30 when hot which was also about normal.Catastrophe averted.
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