what is the best nose cones for my bravo1 drives, and my oil temp never went above 190 last season and i got alot of milky oil in the valve covers and oil fill cap, what oil t stat should i get for my 500hps.

A 220* oil stat removes water well.
You can get sometimes oil temps up to 230 regardless of your stat temp if you run the dog out of it, but a 220 stat temp will let you get proper oil temps even at low cruise.

Nose cones? What speeds are you running and what's your propshaft height? how far are the drives from the hull notch, what trim setting gives you best speed?

There are several profiles out there, but sometimes they do more harm than good...

My 32 active thunder runs 85 plus , trim up to 6or7 out of 10, 32 thunder has a high x, my calculated slip #s were 18 or more. my oil temp hard running still never over 200.

Had same issue on my last boat. Installed the Merc oil stat unit and it went away. Before hand, running at speed was not the issue, it was when I idled back to the ramp that the oil cooled down fast enough to pull in moisture.

Let me know and we can get you some product links to look at for the stats.

send me the links to [email protected] thanks

US1 ... these the merc Tstats you used? If so .. you could run cruise or idle with 200* temps? .... I have been chasing this problem for a while .... I am running KE Tstats and the only way to get over 200* is run very hard .... Cruise or idle forget 200* .... I did install a bypass sytem (water) around the oil coolers so I can get temps up during cruise ...m

I'm looking for a t-stat or replacement spring/etc for a large
aircraft oil cooler I have that I might run, but it opens @160,
a bit too low, would like to get it up to 200-210 if possible,
or gut it and install diff. t-stat

For what its worth, my oil temp never get beyond about 160f. 180f on an all day romp was the best I saw last yr. I had near zero cheese under the breathers and no signs of moisture under the valve covers. I'd say for those getting milky oil and 180 oil temp you have reversion in the exhaust most likely. Hotter oil temps will help, but there are other ways to reduce it like leaning out the a/f, turning up the idle a bit and so on.

BT

Blue
Your 160 to 180 max oil temp even running hard is good news. If accurate, it says your oil cooler is big enough so your oil doesn't overheat. IMO, you could still benefit by using a oil thermostat that will slow/control the oil circulation just enough to hold your oil temp at a steady at a number like 218 degrees.
It seems to me that something may not be right with a gauge, sender or the sender location. You should be showing signs of water in the oil system with max oil temp of 160-180. As your not showing any condensation, it tells me your oil temp may be getting higher than your gauge is reading. One benefit of an oil thermostat is they are accurate...at least the KE's are. If your cooler is big enough and your gauge and sender set up is right, your gauges will show a rock steady 218 with enough RPM.
When we come back from boating, I expect condensation to form that night that will not cook-off until the next run that builds enough heat to provide a 212+ oil temp. This might be a steady run of 5,000+ RPM....don't really know the exact point. Most boats would vary anyway.

Ben