Rockfish71

Was the boat leaning to that side and also the water might have came in through the exhaust

86BAJA

Ok So To Answer a few questions I had to start the motor after being submerged...ergh...I did it after getting all the water out of the bilge because i had no other way to move it to the ramp to get it out of the water, i know a stupid move but didnt know how else to get it out. when i took it in i told them to winterize the boat and fix the leak and they then called and told me about the milky oil. I want to trouble shoot everything else before i jump straight to the block. The mechanic called me an hour ago with a quote on a new block......WITHOUT even looking at the motor...Didnt even take it in the shop....So I'm going to pick up the boat tomm and start from square one on my own. I have been writting down everything you guys have said and going to make a list and start moving right down the list and see what happens. So what are you guys thinking?......

bobsbillets

Change the oil and run it operating temp. If you run the engine for a few hours on the lake under a load the water will evaporate.

FIXX

iTrader: (2)

get some 5w30 and change the oil several yimes,make sure you reach under the engine and pull the plug to and let it drain in the bilge and out the drain hole into a drain pan,,then get some degreecer and clean the bilge when done.. i know its a pain in the azz to get at the drain plug but you have to do it, theirs usually between 1-2 quarts of oil in the pan after sucking it out.

86BAJA

Hey Thanks for all the help I wiill give all these steps a shot and keep you guys updated with the latest......

90mphRAGE

Hey all,

What is this kerosen flush you speak of? What's the procedure?
I have water in my valve covers after a run. I've solved the problem, but can't get all the water out even after 6+ changes. I run a whipple & no thermostat, so tem never gets up enough to burn off moisture.