Yes, just like that. There are more lines than using the thermo. oil cooler, but no more than using a remote mounted thermostat. By using the thermofilter instead of the thermostatic oil cooler, you will have 2 additional hoses. I find it really easy to plumb since the 4 hoses are all going to one place. They can all be strapped together in a nice, neat bundle.
Eddie

I installed the "700hp" Hardin Marine thermostatically controlled oil cooler and have been dissapointed with its cooling capacity with my ~600hp modified naturally aspirated closed cooling 496HO. The engine coolant stays nice and cool at 140F max with a 120F thermostat at extended WOT runs but during extended WOT running the oil temp keeps climbing until I shut it down at 270F (after about 15 min) because I do not want the oil that hot. I have tremendous sea water flow through the oil cooler with 43psi+ sea water pressure at WOT and good oil flow with -10 lines and fittings for 75-80 psi oil cold/warm at WOT...until things get real hot then the oil pressure goes south. I am running a HV oil pump. I checked the oil temperature thermostat and it closes at the 190F set temperature as it should then forceing all oil flow through the cooling HE.

It just seems that the 3"x 18" cooler is over rated as far as the "700hp" cooling capacity. I wish I would have gone with the 1000hp unit for my ~600hp.

RAGE,
just a suggestion. after reading your post are you ABSOLUTLY certain that your plumbing is correct. I have seen an application much like yours that exhibited symptoms you described that was rigged by a very a reputable person only to find it was plumbed "in to in" and "out to out" and the flow in the cooler running parallel with the cooling water instead of against it. once this was corrected everything was much more predictable. that cooler should be large enough. good luck.

Rage:

Is there any possibility that the thermostat is corroded? It sounds like if the temperature is climbing as you're at WOT, you could be bypassing more than you think because the T stat isn't expanding. The cooler design is sized properly up to 700hp. If you're running 600hp, something is likely wrong in the hookup or you've got some blockage.

One other thing: the thermostat throw could be short (possibly incorrect T stat -- throw should be .300") which could keep it from shutting off against the fitting causing excessive bypass.

Check those and lmk.


Russ

Well Smokinbob I was told by Hardin Marine tech line and a reputable engine builder that they both had tested both parrallel flow and opposing flow and found no difference with that oil cooler. So I installed it the most convient way which happened to be parrallel flow. But having tested everything for proper function and exhausted everything else I could think of or was told to try to reduce max oil temperature during extended running I decided to try opposing flow. I have replumbed the flow to opposing but have not yet been able to get a long WOT run in to see if that makes any difference in reducing the extended run max oil temperature.

I will post the results when I have them.

Thanks for the input.

Russ,

I thermocoupled the bypass line and its temperature stabilizes at ~190F thermostat setting while the engine oil keeps climbing way above that during hard runs.

How can the throw of the thermostat be measured?

Thanks.

rage,,, do you think you could be running to lean at wot,,,and that,s some of your oil over heating problem

TWIN-SPINS, Thanks for the thought but most of the extended WOT runs where the oil gets too hot are AFR runs one cylinder at a time for ECU fuel table calibration. I am always in the 12.5 AFR sweet spot at WOT or I adjust fuel pressure to get there.

Mr Cool, Question if you can: with this oil cooler operating properly and good sea water (at lets say 70F or cooler) flow and oil flow rates what should be the max stabilized oil temperature 1.) into the oil cooler and/or 2.) out of the oil cooler when hooked up to a properly running 700 hp naturally aspirated engine running WOT for extended periods for a closed cooling engine with engine coolant stabilized at 140F max? Just trying to get my bearings here.

Rage, I know pretty much nothing about a 496HO so excuse my ignorance. Has this engine been apart and modified at all? Does the 496 block have the same oil by-pass spring on the block that other Gen blocks have? I had a friend that his spring was bad or wrong so it by-passed a good portion of the oil and never cooled it. Also what is your timing, if I remember from another post years ago someone was having High oil temperatures and his timing was (I think) retarded to much and was creating High oil temps, (experts correct me if I'm wrong) also a lean condition can drive up oil temps.
Just throwing some other suggestions out there.
Good luck