Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Technical > General Q & A
I Keep Breaking U Joints And Destroying Transom Units >

I Keep Breaking U Joints And Destroying Transom Units

Notices

I Keep Breaking U Joints And Destroying Transom Units

Thread Tools
 
Old 03-27-2010, 12:08 PM
  #11  
Charter Member # 55
Charter Member
 
Griff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Omaha/LOTO
Posts: 19,558
Received 1,821 Likes on 907 Posts
Default

I would bet that either the mounts or transom are flexing under the torque. You need offshore engine mounts if you don't have them. Transom could be wet and flexing as well.
Griff is offline  
Old 03-27-2010, 12:57 PM
  #12  
Charter Member #927
Charter Member
 
Payton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: IN
Posts: 4,834
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

[QUOTE= I borrowed a good coupler, lined up the motor and ran it for another 6-8yrs without a problem.


[/QUOTE]

Dick, remind me not to loan you anything I might want back.
Payton is offline  
Old 03-27-2010, 03:01 PM
  #13  
Registered
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Westport, Kentucky
Posts: 1,321
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Not to overlook the obvious but do the drive rams have the correct stops in them and trim limit switch adjusted to prevent u-joints from binding? This was part of a swap from Bravo to Bravo XR.
BadDog is offline  
Old 03-27-2010, 04:59 PM
  #14  
Registered
 
tomas_wallin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Posts: 1,229
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by tommymonza
with your drive bolted on have some body big jump up and down on the cavitation plate while you look at the transom at the bottom of the boat and transom assembly.
My bet is there is not enough glass or there is rot down by the drain plug and when you hammer it the whole transom assembly is flexing in on the bottom and stressing your u-joints.
+1 If the transom isn't thick enough (2"+ something) the driveshaft would bottom out in the crankshaft and put a huge stress on the u-joint.
tomas_wallin is offline  
Old 03-27-2010, 05:47 PM
  #15  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default ................

everytime I fixed it I put a new coupler in just to be on the safe side because I didnt know what was causing it to break. I just checked the stringers and the transom both are solid and didnt see any flex in either of them. Both motor mounts are solid and no movement. Everytime it broke I was just cruising along about 60 or so but not under any torque or anything. What do you think the possibility of maybe the flywheel having a defect with either the coupler mounting holes or just the casting of the flywheel itself ????? I am running the Dart Big M block now compared to the GM block I was running in the old set up. Does that block have different specs or need to use different parts ?????
darin is offline  
Old 03-27-2010, 06:16 PM
  #16  
Charter Member
Charter Member
 
bowtie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 667
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

If you can put the alignment tool in and out with 2 fingers, alignment is ok. When you say you replaced the whole motor, is the flywheel housing new. The new rear mounts don't require the lock washer type spacer on top of the mounts like the old ones did. If they put the new engine in without knowing this you would have an alignment problem. But alignment problems usually are compensated for by the rubber coupler, which should fail before the u joints. Also are you replacing the entire u joint shaft and yoke complete or just replacing the joints. I would replace the entire assembly, not cheap but these are not like the old joints that you could smack in with a hammer.
bowtie is offline  
Old 03-27-2010, 06:23 PM
  #17  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default ............

Each time it has been new from mercury shaft, u joints, ect.
darin is offline  
Old 03-27-2010, 07:39 PM
  #18  
Registered
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: dallas tx.
Posts: 1,186
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...p-coupler.html what about something like this causing your problem???
TWIN-SPINS is offline  
Old 03-27-2010, 07:41 PM
  #19  
Registered
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Between A Womans Leggs in IL
Posts: 6,306
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default fixx

you replaced several gimbal's,couplers and ujoints..the aleignment is spot on,, my next strp would be to start looking into the drive.their may either be a bearing starting to go bad then locks up after a few hours of use or mabe a broken tooth off of one of the gears getting jammed wher its not soppose to be and locking up then shering the ujoint..i had a volvo do this years ago and it turned out to be the drive..
FIXX is offline  
Old 03-28-2010, 08:22 AM
  #20  
Registered
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Fredericksburg, Va
Posts: 4,554
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

If the alignment is right, then the hull as it is is junk, stringers and or transom flexing under power killing the parts....just like anything else when that boat was built they never intended it to handle that amount of power...not much extra built in...no different than sticking a big H/P engine in a street car and wonder why the rear expired...you may run without hatch, and have someone watch the engine for movement under power..transome flex going to be tuff to see. good luck, Rob
ezstriper is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.