milky oil under valve covers..compression test
#21
There are 2 hoses on each engine plumbed from the valve covers to the flame arrester..No breathers or PCV..Just hose to arrester. I just installed 2 PCV's one on each valve cover on each engine..Since my carbs no longer had a large vacuum port, I had to install a 1" aluminum spacer with a 1/4" port under the carb.
Everything I've read about pcv's seems that they also remove moisture.. so i'll know within a month or so if that cured my problem...
Everything I've read about pcv's seems that they also remove moisture.. so i'll know within a month or so if that cured my problem...
Last edited by 35fountain; 03-31-2010 at 09:28 PM.
#22
#23
I noticed you had the short risers, what cam do you have in these engines? I use the EMI exhaust with the long risers. Before I knew better I ran a aftermarket cam with the stock exhaust and it caused reversion. I saw the same thing with the oil you are experiencing. I cannot explain why it would only be on one engine.
Correct me if i'm wrong ..........
Reversion is water being sucked back into the exhaust portion of the riser pipe at engine idle speeds and after running at high rpms then pulling back on the throttle to idle position with large duration + overlap camshafts. . Then what happens to that water?? Turns to steam ?? How would that steam get into the valve covers and cause the oil to turn milky?? wouldn't wash the plugs clean ?? passes the rings and ends up into the pan?? Wouldn't it eventually buildup and show in the pan oil ??
Can someone clarify this
Last edited by 35fountain; 04-01-2010 at 02:56 PM.
#25
If you are on the edge of reversion pcv valves are a good fix. If you have reversion looking up the pipe you would see efforvecence (sp?) white spots after all is dry. If it is pure black carbon looking you have no reversion.
Slight reversion really just humidfies the crankcase after shutdown. As the engine decelerates to a stop the reversion increases. Then it sits there closed up and heat rises to the valve covers and condenses like an aquarium. Another helpful thing with slight reversion is to remove your oil fill caps/breathers at the end of the weekend. It allows the moisture to excape during the week.
Slight reversion really just humidfies the crankcase after shutdown. As the engine decelerates to a stop the reversion increases. Then it sits there closed up and heat rises to the valve covers and condenses like an aquarium. Another helpful thing with slight reversion is to remove your oil fill caps/breathers at the end of the weekend. It allows the moisture to excape during the week.
#27
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,233
Likes: 1
From: pa
Ihad the same exact problem last seaon on both my 500hps, but my oil temp never gets above 190 even hard running, so i assum it is condensation,, where is the oil tstats on 500hp carb motors.
Last edited by rssteiny; 04-01-2010 at 07:43 PM.
#28
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 20
From: Millstadt, IL
If it were me I would ditch the silent choice and get the long risers. Just my .02 cents, I know a lot about this stuff because I broke a lot of parts. Cheaper to set it up right than get towed in and be out of boating for the summer. I would not run the short risers and silent choice on anything other than a completly stock engine.
#29
#30
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 333
Likes: 2
From: Fairless Hills Pa
Pressure test the water system on the engine. I Had the problem of an intake gasket leaking water into the oil galley very slowly one time. If it does not hold pressure you definitly have a leak somewhere. Also oil coolers and parts like that could do it too.



