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-   -   milky oil under valve covers..compression test (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/227184-milky-oil-under-valve-covers-compression-test.html)

jeff1000man 04-03-2010 05:47 AM


Originally Posted by TubzzFormula 271 (Post 3080290)
They removed the heads and had them cut and put new head gaskets on. Nothing else was changed.

They changed something. Sounds like a head gasket isn't sealing properly :eek: Did they torque the bolts properly? Why did they shave the head surface? IF there were no problems, there was no reson to deck them unless you were trying to get a little more compresion.

If you decked the heads, you need a thicker intake gasket. I just thought of that. Pull you intakes and check and make sure they are sealing properly. Did you have to re adjust the carbs at idle when you got the engines put back together??

TubzzFormula 271 04-03-2010 06:21 AM


Originally Posted by jeff1000man (Post 3080352)
They changed something. Sounds like a head gasket isn't sealing properly :eek: Did they torque the bolts properly? Why did they shave the head surface? IF there were no problems, there was no reson to deck them unless you were trying to get a little more compresion.

If you decked the heads, you need a thicker intake gasket. I just thought of that. Pull you intakes and check and make sure they are sealing properly. Did you have to re adjust the carbs at idle when you got the engines put back together??

Just a top end refresh because Ive heard about 500HP Springs, so basically Preventative Maintenance to make myself feel better and know this.. carbs were re adjusted.

rssteiny 04-03-2010 07:36 AM


Originally Posted by 35fountain (Post 3080222)
I would just change the stat...It maybe getting stuck in a slightly open position allowing constant flow to the cooler..and keeping you temps at 190

I believe the part number is Merc # 816163

What bothers me is that it is both motors, do you think they both would be sticking open, ill put new ones in while i have it all apart anyway.

35fountain 04-03-2010 08:44 AM


Originally Posted by rssteiny (Post 3080383)
What bothers me is that it is both motors, do you think they both would be sticking open, ill put new ones in while i have it all apart anyway.

strange...how about your gauges and senders..
you need to get yourself a handheld laser temp control..point shoot and read the temp..I got one..at least you'll know if the senders and gauges are accurate.

rssteiny 04-03-2010 11:34 AM


Originally Posted by 35fountain (Post 3080409)
strange...how about your gauges and senders..
you need to get yourself a handheld laser temp control..point shoot and read the temp..I got one..at least you'll know if the senders and gauges are accurate.

Same there as well both guages or senders would be strange.

blue thunder 04-04-2010 07:04 PM


Originally Posted by offthefront (Post 3080181)
:drink:

Thanks!! I was starting to think no one could hear me from my computer. :grinser010:

90mphRAGE 04-18-2010 09:32 PM

Been reading this post & it's insightful. I have the same problem with milk in valve covers only. Thing is, I know why. I had the motor completely gone through & on the lake test day, lost a hose clamp for cooling & it got hot. Long story short, heads warped & that's where the water came in. Now all is repaired, but I can't seem to get that last bit of water out of the system. No more is getting in. I've left oil caps off like you said to let it all evaporate, didn't work (forgot they were off & made a mess though). I've changed the oil a dozen times & still have milk after a run. Is there a way to "flush" the oil system? I've heard something about flushing with kerosene.
I have a whipple w/ no pvc, just a tube into the flame arrestor.
Should I even worry about it?

blue thunder 04-19-2010 04:41 PM


Originally Posted by 90mphRAGE (Post 3090377)
Been reading this post & it's insightful. I have the same problem with milk in valve covers only. Thing is, I know why. I had the motor completely gone through & on the lake test day, lost a hose clamp for cooling & it got hot. Long story short, heads warped & that's where the water came in. Now all is repaired, but I can't seem to get that last bit of water out of the system. No more is getting in. I've left oil caps off like you said to let it all evaporate, didn't work (forgot they were off & made a mess though). I've changed the oil a dozen times & still have milk after a run. Is there a way to "flush" the oil system? I've heard something about flushing with kerosene.
I have a whipple w/ no pvc, just a tube into the flame arrestor.
Should I even worry about it?


If your oil got emulsified with water you will need to get it pretty hot to clear out. Definately above 212*. What is yours getting to? If it is too low there are things you could do to get it up temporarily.

I've had many emulsified messes and alway cleaned out the internals with diesel fuel or kero. Put about 10 gallons in the engine and drive around town (towing) a while a couple different days. I also run the priming tool with the kero in there to flush out the cooler and lines. Drain kero then perferably through the oil pan drain plug. Then new oil/filter, run it on the hose, change oil again and whala cheese free

If you could pressure test the cooling system that would be a good first move.

90mphRAGE 04-19-2010 05:15 PM


Originally Posted by blue thunder (Post 3091284)
If your oil got emulsified with water you will need to get it pretty hot to clear out. Definately above 212*. What is yours getting to? If it is too low there are things you could do to get it up temporarily.

I've had many emulsified messes and alway cleaned out the internals with diesel fuel or kero. Put about 10 gallons in the engine and drive around town (towing) a while a couple different days. I also run the priming tool with the kero in there to flush out the cooler and lines. Drain kero then perferably through the oil pan drain plug. Then new oil/filter, run it on the hose, change oil again and whala cheese free

If you could pressure test the cooling system that would be a good first move.

Thanks,

I'll try the warming up thing first. I generally don't see the needle move above 110 water temp. I don't have a oil temp gauge, but plan on adding one ( I think the HP500EFI harness already has a wire?). Also, does the HP500 have a oil thermostat I'm not seeing somewhere? How could I temporarily heat it up?
I just fill the oil, cylinders and all w/ diesel & "shake it up" by towing it around, drain, add oil & run on hose, change again? Is that how it's done?
Sounds messy, but not as bad as the alternative.


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