They changed something. Sounds like a head gasket isn't sealing properly Did they torque the bolts properly? Why did they shave the head surface? IF there were no problems, there was no reson to deck them unless you were trying to get a little more compresion.

If you decked the heads, you need a thicker intake gasket. I just thought of that. Pull you intakes and check and make sure they are sealing properly. Did you have to re adjust the carbs at idle when you got the engines put back together??

Just a top end refresh because Ive heard about 500HP Springs, so basically Preventative Maintenance to make myself feel better and know this.. carbs were re adjusted.

What bothers me is that it is both motors, do you think they both would be sticking open, ill put new ones in while i have it all apart anyway.

strange...how about your gauges and senders..
you need to get yourself a handheld laser temp control..point shoot and read the temp..I got one..at least you'll know if the senders and gauges are accurate.

Same there as well both guages or senders would be strange.

Thanks!! I was starting to think no one could hear me from my computer.

Been reading this post & it's insightful. I have the same problem with milk in valve covers only. Thing is, I know why. I had the motor completely gone through & on the lake test day, lost a hose clamp for cooling & it got hot. Long story short, heads warped & that's where the water came in. Now all is repaired, but I can't seem to get that last bit of water out of the system. No more is getting in. I've left oil caps off like you said to let it all evaporate, didn't work (forgot they were off & made a mess though). I've changed the oil a dozen times & still have milk after a run. Is there a way to "flush" the oil system? I've heard something about flushing with kerosene.
I have a whipple w/ no pvc, just a tube into the flame arrestor.
Should I even worry about it?

If your oil got emulsified with water you will need to get it pretty hot to clear out. Definately above 212*. What is yours getting to? If it is too low there are things you could do to get it up temporarily.

I've had many emulsified messes and alway cleaned out the internals with diesel fuel or kero. Put about 10 gallons in the engine and drive around town (towing) a while a couple different days. I also run the priming tool with the kero in there to flush out the cooler and lines. Drain kero then perferably through the oil pan drain plug. Then new oil/filter, run it on the hose, change oil again and whala cheese free

If you could pressure test the cooling system that would be a good first move.

Thanks,

I'll try the warming up thing first. I generally don't see the needle move above 110 water temp. I don't have a oil temp gauge, but plan on adding one ( I think the HP500EFI harness already has a wire?). Also, does the HP500 have a oil thermostat I'm not seeing somewhere? How could I temporarily heat it up?
I just fill the oil, cylinders and all w/ diesel & "shake it up" by towing it around, drain, add oil & run on hose, change again? Is that how it's done?
Sounds messy, but not as bad as the alternative.

That's how I have done it many times. Best way of course is total teardown. The hp500 has a sandwich tsat in betw the filter and remote filter pad.