Intro and two part question
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 458
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Hello everyone. I've been lurking on this board for quite some time learning lots of valuable info. My beast is nothing like a fountain, donzi, formula but I'm still looking to push some more power for cruising/fun. Here's my set up:
89 Maxum 2300 open bow
stock 7.4 bravo.
I'm replacing it with:
stroked 498
070 over flat top probe srs pistons
scat forged I beam rods
scat forged crank
bow tie aluminum heads
ultradyne hydr roller 601/601 @ 230*238* duration
Pretty much new block, heads, rotating, intake, carb, the rest will come off my current 454
Questions:
1. I just received a set of 496 take off aluminum manifolds with stainless risers. The risers have connecting water hoses in front and rear coming up from the manifolds. How do I set these up with current thermo assembly? Do I run the hose from thermo to riser and plug the manifold?
2. What is the benefit of Quick and Quiet II? I understand open thru hull and prop but does this lower the dc level due to open prop. I can't afford choice right now but I don't want to scream too loud so i'm thinking of some baffles/mufflers in the tips. Should I leave y pipe or go straight thru with silencers?
I currently boat what's left of Lake Mead. All opinions welcome.
89 Maxum 2300 open bow
stock 7.4 bravo.
I'm replacing it with:
stroked 498
070 over flat top probe srs pistons
scat forged I beam rods
scat forged crank
bow tie aluminum heads
ultradyne hydr roller 601/601 @ 230*238* duration
Pretty much new block, heads, rotating, intake, carb, the rest will come off my current 454
Questions:
1. I just received a set of 496 take off aluminum manifolds with stainless risers. The risers have connecting water hoses in front and rear coming up from the manifolds. How do I set these up with current thermo assembly? Do I run the hose from thermo to riser and plug the manifold?
2. What is the benefit of Quick and Quiet II? I understand open thru hull and prop but does this lower the dc level due to open prop. I can't afford choice right now but I don't want to scream too loud so i'm thinking of some baffles/mufflers in the tips. Should I leave y pipe or go straight thru with silencers?
I currently boat what's left of Lake Mead. All opinions welcome.
#2
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,306
Likes: 1
From: Between A Womans Leggs in IL
Hello everyone. I've been lurking on this board for quite some time learning lots of valuable info. My beast is nothing like a fountain, donzi, formula but I'm still looking to push some more power for cruising/fun. Here's my set up:
89 Maxum 2300 open bow
stock 7.4 bravo.
I'm replacing it with:
stroked 498
070 over flat top probe srs pistons
scat forged I beam rods
scat forged crank
bow tie aluminum heads
ultradyne hydr roller 601/601 @ 230*238* duration
Pretty much new block, heads, rotating, intake, carb, the rest will come off my current 454
Questions:
1. I just received a set of 496 take off aluminum manifolds with stainless risers. The risers have connecting water hoses in front and rear coming up from the manifolds. How do I set these up with current thermo assembly? Do I run the hose from thermo to riser and plug the manifold?
2. What is the benefit of Quick and Quiet II? I understand open thru hull and prop but does this lower the dc level due to open prop. I can't afford choice right now but I don't want to scream too loud so i'm thinking of some baffles/mufflers in the tips. Should I leave y pipe or go straight thru with silencers?
I currently boat what's left of Lake Mead. All opinions welcome.
89 Maxum 2300 open bow
stock 7.4 bravo.
I'm replacing it with:
stroked 498
070 over flat top probe srs pistons
scat forged I beam rods
scat forged crank
bow tie aluminum heads
ultradyne hydr roller 601/601 @ 230*238* duration
Pretty much new block, heads, rotating, intake, carb, the rest will come off my current 454
Questions:
1. I just received a set of 496 take off aluminum manifolds with stainless risers. The risers have connecting water hoses in front and rear coming up from the manifolds. How do I set these up with current thermo assembly? Do I run the hose from thermo to riser and plug the manifold?
2. What is the benefit of Quick and Quiet II? I understand open thru hull and prop but does this lower the dc level due to open prop. I can't afford choice right now but I don't want to scream too loud so i'm thinking of some baffles/mufflers in the tips. Should I leave y pipe or go straight thru with silencers?
I currently boat what's left of Lake Mead. All opinions welcome.
and don't take them apart,those gaskets are like 40-60 bucks a piece..
their should be a fitting on the bottom of the manifold, out from the thermostat housing to the fitting on the bottom of the manifold,if you have a 4 port housing you need to either get a y connector and connect 2 hoses in to one or replace the thermostat housing with this one..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=370319170134
whats the LSA on that cam..
#3
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 458
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Here's the info on the cam:
284*/292*
230*/238*
112* LSA
108* ICL
.3533"/.3533" lobe
.601"/.601" valve w/1.7 rockers
The HR14 is the master lobe number for the intake
The HR15 is the master lobe number for the exhaust
The I/T 5266 is the serial number
The thermo housing in the link has the same # of hoses going to exhaust as stock. I'll just get a y connector for the riser hose.
284*/292*
230*/238*
112* LSA
108* ICL
.3533"/.3533" lobe
.601"/.601" valve w/1.7 rockers
The HR14 is the master lobe number for the intake
The HR15 is the master lobe number for the exhaust
The I/T 5266 is the serial number
The thermo housing in the link has the same # of hoses going to exhaust as stock. I'll just get a y connector for the riser hose.
#4
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,306
Likes: 1
From: Between A Womans Leggs in IL
Here's the info on the cam:
284*/292*
230*/238*
112* LSA
108* ICL
.3533"/.3533" lobe
.601"/.601" valve w/1.7 rockers
The HR14 is the master lobe number for the intake
The HR15 is the master lobe number for the exhaust
The I/T 5266 is the serial number
The thermo housing in the link has the same # of hoses going to exhaust as stock. I'll just get a y connector for the riser hose.
284*/292*
230*/238*
112* LSA
108* ICL
.3533"/.3533" lobe
.601"/.601" valve w/1.7 rockers
The HR14 is the master lobe number for the intake
The HR15 is the master lobe number for the exhaust
The I/T 5266 is the serial number
The thermo housing in the link has the same # of hoses going to exhaust as stock. I'll just get a y connector for the riser hose.
is this what you have?
#8
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Registered
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 458
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
What is the most practical application to fight reversion in my situation?
Should I weld and extenstion to the inner exhaust pipe so the water isn't introduced until the end?
Or, is it as simple as plugging the hose holes on the outside and inside bends of the riser along with one of the manifold's holes and run one hose from manifold and connect to end of exhaust?
I drew a pic showing both scenarios but I can't attach.
Should I weld and extenstion to the inner exhaust pipe so the water isn't introduced until the end?
Or, is it as simple as plugging the hose holes on the outside and inside bends of the riser along with one of the manifold's holes and run one hose from manifold and connect to end of exhaust?
I drew a pic showing both scenarios but I can't attach.




I'm trying to find out how to combat reversion with 496ho manifolds. Any useful opinions appreciated.