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Old 04-29-2010, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by cabin fever
Oil looked ok when I was looking at it.

Started on the hose at the sellers house in 15 degree weather, ran for aprox 10 min. Motor never got warm.

Brought the boat home. Cleaned, polished, added some bling, etc. NEVER started the boat cuase it was still to cold out. Finally drained the oil, and refilled (since I didn't know how old the oil was) When I drained it, I noticed a little water, but chalkded it up to condesation at the time, nothing like what I have now.

Used the boat for 30 min, and thought the oil PSI was to high, so I got scared, and put it back on the trailer. Called the seller. told him I put straight 50 VRI in. He said to run 20/50VRI. Drained again, and noticed a small amount of water, again thought it was condensation (still nothing like I have now). Ran it aprox 2 hrs. Boat ran great. Perfect day on the water. Got home check oil, and noticed right away from the dipstick I had problems.

I'm not petty. I expect little things to break, and fix. I even stated if it was just intake gaskets, or even head gaskets I didn't expect any help, but I'm starting to fear its internal right now the biggest frustration is not knowing whats going on.
15* weather?? i hope you drained the block before you towed the boat to your home..even a short distance it will freeze and the headers would definately freeze..

dont use a thick oil when flushing,use a 30w oil,will drain more then a thicker oil,,are you sucking the oil out?
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Old 04-29-2010, 10:53 AM
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Yea, drained the block, and headers before I left. Weather warmed up to above freezing during the trip home

We didn't drain the oil cooler, so it was one the first things i checked (it was still good)

I've been using straight 30 to flush.
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Old 04-29-2010, 10:57 AM
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Cabin fever did you actually un hook the rear of the headers from the rubber hose? The newer style headers were bolted underneath! The older ones were one piece and didn't bolt to the tail pipes, which is what you are describing. The older ones could be rotted out inside, meaning the inside pipe routing the exhaust gasses could be leaking. If that happens you could be sucking water in. Also when you shut down the motor, water can leak into the inside pipes and run down into the exhast port into the combustion chamber!
After running and you let it sit a few minutes, is the motor hard to turn over?
If so water is filling the cylinder with water, pushing it past the piston rings and into the oil!
Just trying to help you figure this **** out. I know headers can create havick.
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Old 04-29-2010, 11:05 AM
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I appreciate your help!!!!

I have the headers off, and on my work bench. I took some pictures to describe what i was talkking about, but I can't post pics here. The motor never has a hard time starting. usually turns right over, and fires right up.
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Old 04-29-2010, 11:17 AM
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Try and get those headers pressure tested. That would be the easiest fix. If the water isn't drained after use and sets in them for some time they will rott. I hope thats all it is, maybe you will get lucky and it's the headers leaking. Not that headers are cheap though. Let us know, we want you on the water.
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Old 04-29-2010, 11:30 AM
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Lightnings are not easy to pressure test unless you have a jig. I would just send them back to Jan and see what he says but from everything you describe, the headers are your problem. This is not good news. New SS headers run about $4k or so depending on what you buy.

Are your headers stainless or standard and how old are they?
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Old 04-29-2010, 11:39 AM
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Standard. Powercoated Red (which I could care less about)

wouldn't I be able to see some evidence of leakage? I would think I would see some rust or something?
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Old 04-29-2010, 11:50 AM
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not always. What happens with cracked headers is the crack may not open up untill the motor is at operating temp. Depending on the cam, when your running over 2500 you blow any leaking water out the pipes but when you slow down the water reverts. The leak may get bigger as you slow down because the water pressure will drop as the engine speed comes down but the exhaust gasses temps are still very high. Once it's inside the combustion chamber it won't compress and gets pushed passed the rings. By the time you get shut down most of the residual water that leaked in dries up from engine heat.
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Old 04-29-2010, 11:51 AM
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You probably wont see anything, because the crack/rott could be anywhere up inside those tubes. Reversion is a *****.
I wish someone could lone you a set of headers to just try out. Also you may be able to find a decent used set for cheap.
Those lightning headers you have are old! They are not stainless and will corroid. Is there a pyro sensor installed on them?
Sometimes guys will try and weld one on and cause a leak.
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Old 04-29-2010, 11:53 AM
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You may notice some white hard water stains in the pipes. this is caused from minerals out of the water calcining on the pipes from the high temps.
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