ok guys. Bought waterbums ear setup, and dropped a motor in to see how its gonna line up. Everything went perfect, except the motor needs to go back 1/2" for the rear bolts that go thru the ears and inner transom. With the front plate bolted to the L brackets, im 1/2" too far forward...damn

Now do i move the motors back to where they need to be, and re-drill the holes in the stringers, or new holes in the Aluminum angle iron to give me that 1/2"...

best to make new L brakets you dont want more holes in your stringers

Could you just use a 1/2 pc of alum for a shim between the motor plate and the L stringer motor mount? Maybe drill one hole, thru bolt and then mark spacer with a transfer punch. Drill all holes in the spacer slighter larger than the mount bolts for a easy install.

i agree with tnt1,get new l bracket and drill new holes.
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Mr fixxall;

Can you elaborate on this? We are going throught it currently on a new rig job -- what does installing longer dowell pins do?
What am i missing in your description?
Are there different starters available for this application?


Thanks, Dave

U need to just mill down the bellhousing 1/4 inch and all is good !!!!!!!
the ring gear on the engine is also running on the back side , DONT FORGET THAT !

just mill off whats added on the rear mounting plate ..but if they are already for rear mounts ..watch out !

Not sure what you are rigging, but I have the mounts for the ssm setup that bolt to the transmission, then inner transom plate. I went with rear raceplates, only because that's how mine was rigged. I actually like the ear setup better. If you need the ears, ill give ya a good deal!

whenever you use a rear stringer mount engine plate your extending the bell housing back .250,your bell housing wont sit rite with the motor plate so you need to knock out the rear engine doll pins and install longer ones so you wont sheer the heads of the bolts off..the pins are designed to keep the engine and bell housing in line and if the bell housing does not sit even with the pins it could throw the crankshaft center line off then you could have other problems like wearing out the mains or the transmission pump..
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...22006/10002/-1

as for starters their are 2 different lengths to the nose of the starter,depends on how deep the starter ring is..

Not trying to start a fight here but I have never heard of a longer nose for a top mount starter. I have always thought those come in one flavor. And if using one the ring gear is always on the rear of the flywheel. Block mounted starter uses ring gear on the front and does not care about the flywheel housing.

Also, do not forget about the engagement of the transmission to the drive plate. Most of the flat style plates barely grab as it is. The dished plates are better in that regard.

Yes, kudos on the long dowels. They are often overlooked.

Some of the standard flywheel housings don't really have enough meat on them to machine. We have taken meat off both the front and back sides (both starter & trans) to get that 1/4".

The front/rear mounts are a really good idea if the boat is going to be run hard. I personally dont like to see the engine supported by the transmission. Have seen more than a handful of cracked flywheel housings. Also the transom deflects more than you would believe. Put a Go-Pro back there and run out to one of the cribs (you Chicago guys know what those are) one day this fall when the wind is out of the NE and take a look.

Can anybody post any pics on this?