mine did the same thing after putting a big cam in, so my builder added some spacers that had adjustemnts to them, it helped a bunch, they look cool as well.

I agree with everything Jeff1000 says. Lots of issues seem to come from guys cranking the idle speed screw up to get the engine to idle higher. Ends up with a crappy idle mixure, as the carb comes off the idle circuit. If adjusting the little mixture screws on each side of the bowl has almost no effect, the idle speed screw is prob set too high.

Oh, and sometimes adding more base timing and taking a little out the the advance can help clean up the idle.

U need bigger idle air bleeds !!!!!! go 2 sizes up and u be fine....

Iam running 1" hvh super sucker spacers new this year but it always had 1 " open spacers

Rick,

Put a little more fuel in the idle circuits like 1/8 turn additional(out) on each screw until it stops stalling. Shouldn't affect the idle to the point it will hurt the drives.

I still say after the carb is ajusted out that a really good valve adjustment makes all the difference in the world when you are trying to strengthen an idle. Re set them after you run the boat for a while and the lifters are pumped up.

Strengthen the idle screws until it stops stalling. The only issue you will have is that the carb will be loaded up strong when you come off plane, but a quick bump to the throttle will get them straight again.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

retighten the carb to manifold bolts,,,sounds like a vacuum leak

here's a good read for ya to give you a ides on how a carb works..

http://www.candsspecialties.com/tuning.html

Go to 3/4 turn out and retest (in 1/4 from where you are at 1 turn out). If still not satisfied go to 1/2 turn out. That should do it. If not, you will need to open the secondardy idle srcrew a bit so we can close the primary idle screw to get on the idle circuit.

Both were at 1 turn out im going to turn them all the way in then 1 1/2 turn out then go from there on water this weekend.

Thanks guys