Rinker Captiva 262 SS performance ???
 

I recently purchased a pretty rare boat and finding specs or even articles has been pretty tough. The few blurbs I have found online have pretty much come from searching here. http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...ance-boat.html
I am hoping to get some info from you guys.

2002 Rinker Captiva 262 SS, 496 MAG (base) Bravo 1, 1.50, 15.25X24 4 blade Bravo 1 prop. 4800 pounds empty. The engine seems strong and runs smooth throughout the rev range. Whole boat has 40 hours.

From what I see, this boat should run at least 60 or better. My best has been 51 on GPS at about 4500 rpm. It acts like it's over propped in my limited opinion. I'm not sure if I am down on power or this boat really isn't as fast as I have heard it to be.

Does anybody have thoughts on this?

PS- here are some recent pictures
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1280167483
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1280167564

PS-my buddy was out yesterday with hos Baja 272 Islander 502, 420hp. With his labbed prop he is hitting 72-74 on GPS. That boat is even heavier than mine.

It just seems to me like there is a problem

Pretty low hours for an '02 boat. Did you do a thorough look through, plugs, plug wires, cap/rotor? Bots tend to get a bit old just sitting around. Could be the injectors are a bit dirty as well. Maybe it just needs a few tanks of fuel and run time. Very strong old engine, and that's a heavy boat.

The boat has done a lot of sitting in storage in a garage and also a barn. Although it looks immaculate, I agree, I should pull the plugs and put fresh filters in the fuel system.

I have run about 60-80 gallons of fresh gas through it so far.

After winter storage one year, I lost 600 rpm's and lots of top end. Replaced the plugs and they were mostly back.

Good to know. I will head over this morning and check these things out. I may be able to get some fresh plugs in today. I am also gonna try a get a new water separator in.

I think to much pitch prop for that boat and engine..drop down to a 22

I'm a noob when it comes to props, I admit. What I can tell you is that I contacted Rinker last Tuesday and they told me that this was the prop that they recommended and installed from the factory.

When I asked about the specs for the boat they said they were having trouble locating them. Outside of weighing 4800 pounds, I don't know :confused:

I see you're in Waterbury, where do you run that boat?

I found that the idler pulley is on it's way out and throwing off a fair amount of fine black plastic around the front of the engine. This also includes throwing it into the flame arrestor where it is being ingested into the throttle body and intake.

I have ordered a new idler pulley and cleaned out the flame arrestor, throttle body bore and blade. Could this stufff have gotten elsewhere and be causing a problem/restriction?

CT River. I'm at the Hartford Yacht Club

Mathematically you are runing 25% slip. Something is not right. That engine makes peak power at 4600 RPM, so you are in the ball park RPM wise. This much slip tells me you've got excessive drag(or you're way over trimming). Maybe the bottom of the boat is dirty, tabs are dragging or it's not trimming out properly.

Bob
Full Throttle Marine

Your tach may be off, like was said your prop slip it too high. I do think you may be overproped. Where do you have it trimmed at WOT. I would think the boat should run 58-60 MPH. Maybe you are in "Safe Mode" have somone hook it up to a scan tool.
Just to let you know a 272 with a 502mag runs about 66MPH. Not sure how he could have gotten those numbers unless he was on the trailor. :lolhit:

with trim tabs all the way up I am about half way up on trim. I have a very slight rooster tail coming off the prop. Any higher and I lose speed and gain some RPMs. Any lower and I also lose speed. Once I'm trimmed out I can pull back to about half throttle and still maintain mid 40s MPH around 3800-4000.

I replaced 7 of the 8 plugs today (last one required some bracket removal for access, didn't have the patience today), new fuel filter and separator. Tomorrow I will check the wires with a multimeter and timing.

I also found that the idler pulley is on it's way out and throwing off a fair amount of fine black plastic around the front of the engine. This also includes throwing it into the flame arrestor where it is being ingested into the throttle body and intake.

Hull is very clean. You could eat off of it
I have the tabs all the way up, how would I determine drag?
I think I have it trimmed well but see my post above.

What is your drive ratio? It should be stamped on the drive up by the label.
I see you posted 1.5 so ignore the question. Let us know how it runs after the tuneup.
Also, you may want to try a Mirage prop if you want speed.

New plugs, fuel separator, fuel filter, cleaned flame arrestor and throttle body, rebuilt the sea water pump. No change

The second prop I tried was a 23 Mirage, didn't want to come out of the hole. I have had the best overall performance with the 4 blade 24. I even have a labbed 23 4 blade on it right now. No real difference.

Doing compression test and fuel pressure tomorrow hopefully. The marina can't hook up the scan tool for at least a week they said.

Outside of all this, I am stumped. Is this really just a slow boat?

I had a 99 Rinker Captiva 232 with a 454MagMPI, weighing 4200lb. From the factory, the boat came with a Mirage Plus 21 and top speed was 60-61. They set the boat up with the drive pretty deep--for general family use. My best speed was 63 with a Mirage Plus 23 labbed and some aftermarket manifolds.

You may be over-propped and your drive may be in deep like mine was. It may not be as fast as you are hoping.

Now that I think about it, I'm sure I remember reading a performance report about your boat. I will look through my mags this weekend and let you know if I find it. I don't remember the numbers being bad...

Potential is There!
 

I found the magazine test: Family and Performance Boating,
March 2002. Top speed with a Mag HO 425hp, standard Bravo Drive and a labbed 24 Merc prop (they didn't say which one) was 66. So it seems that 60-62 should be obtainable numbers with your package. One or more things must be wrong somewhere.

Good luck with your quest...

P.S. They hit 70.5mph with a 500efi and an ITS Bravo drive, same prop.

You're killing me over here! I emailed a guy that had one listed on eBay yesterday with the HO motor. He said his was 64 on gps. I'm still looking for answers.

Well, at least you know the boat hull has the speed potential! How did the compression test turn out? Hopefully the computer scan will show a bad sensor or something...Maybe you can get the full throttle rpm read from the computer so you know what the actual engine speed at WOT is (in case your tach is off).

By the way, the magazine article said 4500 lbs dry weight, but the mags don't always report the most accurate data for that stuff.

Compression was 155-160 at each cylinder cold.

Fuel pressure key on, engine off is about 45 pounds with the pump running. Pressure immediately drops off to around 38 pounds once the pump stops running. What should fuel pressure be at speed?

Plugs are replaced, wires tested fine.

I have 2 people believing that the injectors should be pulled and cleaned.

Pretty much all I have at the moment.

Still waiting for an appointment to get the scan from the marina.

Sounds like the basic engine is solid. I don't think the fuel pressure will drop much as you are running. If so, then there might be a restriction in the fuel lines/pick-up. You should also check your fuel vent line is open, but you would probably already have noticed a problem when filling up.

One other thing to check with engine off: is the throttle plate open all the way when you put the throttle lever down?

Hope you find something in the scan...

Checked the plate and it is fully open when the throttle lever is fully open. I may pull the injector tonight and drop them off to a place that cleans and flow tests them. Other than a sensor issue that I can't find until the scan, I'm at a loss.

Suntimes,
Any chance I could buy that issue from you or get you to scan it for me?

I can scan it--just PM me your e-mail...

Well I think that this package is just slow from the factory. Nobody seems to have any test results for the Mag/B1 option, only for the HO/B1X.

In talking to Rinker they advised that the HO and 500efi options used the labbed B1 24 prop and spacer, not the standard B1 24 prop that I was equipped with.

So in conclusion, the differences between the extra 50 horses, extra 500-600 RPM and labbed prop with spacer are probably the reasons for my "missing" speed.

I spoke to Ray at Raylar and will be adding a 103 cam and having them flash the ECU. I also have an email in to BBlades for a prop.

Thank you all so much for your advice, knowledge and patients!

I'm very familiar with this boat and Rinker's in general. How did the boat sit on the trailer when you found it? Was the hull overhanging the bunks? Make sure you do not have any trailer-induced hook in the hull. Being that it is a Rinker, you could have a heavy boat from them.

Our local marine dealer has sold them for years and you would be amazed at how much difference in weight there can be between identical model/equipped Rinkers. A friend of mine is a Merc tech that worked at the dealership for a few years. He would show me cutouts of the hulls where he would add Corsa exhaust. There was never one cutout that was the same thickness side to side or boat to boat. Some cutouts were really thick and others almost paper thin. My buddy and I bought new 232 Rinkers in 1999 with the same motors. My boat was a full 2 MPH faster on GPS. Obviously the workers laying up the boats were not much into quality control!

The 496 MAG can turn 4,800 RPM. You are giving up some speed there most likely. I have the same motor in my currrent boat and I definitely run faster at 4,800 RPM than 4,500 RPM. Brett from BBlades worked my props. I would start with Brett (assuming your hull is not hooked) and work with him on a prop to get you turning 4,800 RPM. Also, did they do a leak-down test when they did the compression test? A leak-down test will be a better indicator of the health of the motor. Where all the plugs firing when you pulled them? It is hard to hear a miss in these motors with wet exhaust.

This boat should run upper-50's GPS with a non-labbed prop.

Best I have been able to acheive has been 53 GPS at around 4600 (hard to tell accurately on the gauge)

Attached is a scan from the 2002 article that was sent to me and a shot of my gauges at speed. I'm pretty much right there at 4500 rpm with the HO and 500.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1280500453
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1280500453

My brother has one
 

I just got off the phone with my brother from TX. He has that exact boat (red) with a 496HO and turning a 24 pitch Bravo prop. The prop came from the factory labbed, but it was bumping the rev limiter. Had the prop modified to take a little rpm out of it (cupped) and now it turns 4800 rpm and he will run 65-67 mph GPS depending on load and conditions. That is around 10% slip.

As others have said, you definitely should be running faster than 53 mph if the engine is actually turning 4600 rpm. This calculates to 24% slip. You should be running about 10 mph faster at that rpm. Have you verified the tach is accurate? Maybe try and borrow a labbed Bravo prop. The engine power is good if it can turn up to 4600 rpm, so I would focus on the slip/efficiency issue. I think it was also mentioned to check the straightness of the hull. If it has a significant hook that can hurt efficiency. Good luck!:drink:

4mula,
I would completely agree with you on the slip and speed. As a matter of fact, the whole reason I started this thread was because I felt the boat had more to offer.

As far as the hook is concerned, I feel that it is not an issue but will absolutely check for it when the boat comes out of the water.

I changed my position a little after I was provided with some additional information. As the chart and picture above show, my boat is on par with the HO and 500 until about 4600. My boat simply will not pull any more revs. The other boats seem to really gain efficiency (less slip) with more revs and the labbed prop setup.

The Raylar cam and ECU flash should get me to the HO specs if not even better. The Bblades recommendation and prop will also get me there.

Double post

I see what you mean about the chart. Those are some high slip numbers at 4500 rpm. I will have to ask my brother if he notices a big drop in speed at a slightly reduced rpm.

Attached are a couple pics of his 2002 262 SS (it's currently for sale). I remember now that the 262 does have a very unique pad style hull. You can kind of see it in the stern pic. Maybe it just takes a little more power (like you are working on) to get it over the hump and break free to get that slip number down.

I have seen that boat online. I think this is a better shot of the hull as it seems to be pretty unique. I just haven;t seen anything similar in my limited experience.
http://images.traderonline.com//img/...mb_550x410.jpg

I've dyno'd several 496 Mags. They make maximum HP at 4600 RPM. It starts dropping after that. Fact is they make just about the same power at 4400 RPM. So, it sounds like the engine is performing correctly since it is pulling a 24" prop to the correct RPM(assuming your tach is accurate). Something is keeping the hull stuck to the water. Was the picture you posted with the boat trimmed up? It looks like there is a lot of hull in the water if it is.

The picture is at a cruising speed, maybe 35-40. I can't be sure. Without currently owning a scanner, or knowing someone that I can borrow one from, what would be another good method of determining RPM/verifying tach accuracy?

A timing light that reads rpm will work. They are pretty easy to come by.

Another question. What is the altitude where you are boating?

Close to sea level

Jason
 

I had a similar issue. We had the boat to numerous marina and no luck. Finally I had a tech at robberties marine in ulster ny and he was the only one to fix my problem. My issue was a faulty nock sensor. Basically it would retard the timing and never make all the power. Try it you never know.