I was going by gerrys set up on the 46, props his are out but I'll recheck, and see what his height is. he has a lil hop at 80 to 85 but cruising at 140 is sweet. like brad said change it to in 1st. if its better then do the gear change, I might too this winter drop to a 1.36. Idon't want to spin anything larger than a 32p the 34p b1 suck.

I have found porpoising to be a function of the center of gravity of the boat and the condition of the bottom running surface. It's telling me the CG is alittle forward of the lifting point of the tunnel. If you can imagine the air pressure in the tunnel all results in lift at a specific point, your CG is slightly forward of that point. Be sure everything of weight is out of the nose. I would do all testing at neutral trim, limiting your up or down to less than 10% from neutral (propshaft in line with the bottom). Next check the bottom carefully for hooks, they will drive the boat back to the water while the tunnel is trying to lift it. I buy 80# bags of quickcrete because they are cheap, add weight as far back by the transom as possible and compare the handling. Yes the boat will be slower, I'm more interested in removing the poroising or seeing the effect. Finally I would sand the bottom to reduce water surface tension. A shinny smooth surface may look good but it sticks to the water. Whatever you choose to do make one change then run the boat, you will never learn anything making multiple changes, but you may get lucky.

its been a bravo boat since day one

50 lb sacks of lead shot ,way less messy