wjb21ndtown

I have an 85 Baja with 330s. The boat runs like a top. Starts up, revs to 4500 all day every day, doesn't miss, sputter, etc.

That said, today when I was winterizing the motors () I was inside the compartment with the motors running on the hose (well, ok, they were running on anti-freeze going through a 5 gallon bucket), and I could hear ticking coming from inside the valve covers. Sounded like something was loose or rattling around in there, both sides.

Would this be indicative of needing a rocker adjustment, or lifters going bad, or??? I would guess that it is a hydrolic flat tappet cam and therefore doesn't need a lifter adjustment, but could the lifters be going bad?

Oil pressure is fine (40lbs at idle), boat runs great. I'd just like to know whats up, so I know what to tackle next spring. If it is valve or rocker related I'm fine. I'm putting on new heads/valves/rockers on it next year. If its a lifter issue I'd like to know so I can put new lifters on while the heads/intake are off.

goldeneyee

Most probably wear to all affected components after 15 years. If you're doing heads etc. you might as well replace the cams and lifters. These cams when new were a gm pollution cam with not much of anything to brag about....

mcollinstn

It's not likely that the lifters will need adjusting, but they could have some trash in the checkvalve ports that let them bleed down when it sits. How long did you run them, and did the ticking go away after running a bit?

The reasons your valve lash might be different over time are as follows:

wear (cam lobe, lifter face, rocker face, pushrod end, valve stem)
bent pushrod
mushrooming valve head (*this REDUCES lash)

Then there is the issue regarding the lifters getting leaky checkvalves. This will cause excessive lash on startup that usually goes away when warm.

You just said, though, that you are freshening the heads next year. If you're that far into the motor, and it's got over 400 hours on it, I recommend lifters and valvesprings. Good old OE equivalent Sealed Power parts are a great value.

MC

wjb21ndtown

Lifters are easy, cams are going to be a b!tch! My rear seat would have to come out, completely, or I'd have to pull the motors to change the cams. I'm not looking forward to that. I wouldn't mind pulling the motors if I had a trailer, but right now I'm stuck working at the marina in the water or on a rack. Seems tough to picka motor out at the dock. I might be able to give the hi-lo guys an extra $50 to stick around 10-20 min. to yank the motors though...


Maybe I'll check the travel on the valves and check that for wear on the cams when I pull the valve covers off. I'd rather avoid replacing cams, even for a power gain, but I'll do it if I have to!

wjb21ndtown

Thanks, yeah, it's getting new valves and springs with the heads. They're fully assembled and all new (or will be by spring). I'll replace the lifters at the same time, seems like a good idea per your advice. I'm not looking forward to cams, but I'll do them if they're worn. I don't think the motor would pull so hard to redline if they were worn though, that said, it would nice to get some extra RPMs.

I don't know if it goes away after time. I'll have to check that this spring. I barely ran the boat long enough to get warm. I pull the T-stats out when I winterize, so I don't worry about it staying at temp for a long time.

lifsvr7

My .o2 if your gonna change the heads and all, might as well throw a cam in there... you'd be happy you did! Worn cam and all new valvetrain is kind of a waste... It'll feel like it has a new life

perky2196

pull a valve cover , start motor , back rocker arm nut off till it starts ticking, take it back down till it stops ticking, then another 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. do the whole side then the other side then there done . some people like to do them cold without it running but i like to do it this way then i know for sure there done right . i personally would not change lifters without changing the cam . cam and lifters wear together. changing one without the other is asking for trouble. just my 2 cents good luck

goldeneyee

Lots easier to remove a seat than to replace heads. Replacing all the parts you have outlined without changing the cams and lifters, in my humble opinion, is like putting a new pair of shoes on a bum......

Sport 280

You did not say what BAJA, but on my 89 280 sport it takes some time to remove rear seat, but it is only way to work on any part of front of engines. Do the seat, change cams. But be careful when removing hoses and water pump if the boat in the water. Also can be a pain replacing timing chain cover with poor access to oil pan gasket.

wjb21ndtown

It's an 85, I think the only model they made was a force. That's what mine is 32' (320 model with 330hps). The rear seat looks like it will be a ***** to take out, but maybe it won't be that bad. I'd like to get rid of the fresh water bucket without cutting it all up anyhow. It'll be a good weekend project...

Now... What cam to put in there??? 370 Mag cam? I don't want it reving past 5000. I know the limitations of the lower end and I would like to keep the cam inline with those limitations.