If I was you I would take the boat back to the engine builder and have him check it out.

ahhh.....solids, well that changes things a bit. My buddy that used to run solids did his once a season. Not sure if they needed it or not. Either way , thats longer than 1 hour.

The marbly noise is normal for the rollers. I guess at this point, you might as well do your first valve adjustment and see if the noise goes away.

Fixx
 

+1 on taking it back to the builder,,only 5hr's on the engines at that...let him do it this way he cant say " you over adjusted them " and put the blame on you for the noise and just in case theirs something else wrong..
also .010 on a solid lifter cam don't sound rite to me, they are usually in the high teen's or twenty's(with the engine HOT)...

what is the grind # and ill tell you the proper adjustment..

.010 is a bit tight. Mine were set at .018 but the cam card called for like .025. Made a bit more power with a tighter lash.

To hell with solids anyway, I have hydraulic now and still spin the same RPM. Modern Hydraulic lifters, while pricey, can easily spin 6000rpm with a good setup.

crane hydraulic roller special part #168731 grind #hr-226/345-2s-12ig. I have both valve covers off now, and am checking lash.

Fixx
 

ok at first you said solid roller and now their hydraulic rollers??? now im a bit confused....

o zero lash then 3/8 turn snug center allen then another 1/8 on the outter hex nut on the poly lock.

I think they are hyd roller cams but ther are using solid lifters in it. I have seen that done before.

Fixx
 

If that's the case then he better figure out what he has before he toughes anything..ot take it back to the builder and let them do it..

Solid cams have a gentle ramp to take up the clearance. Juice lifters stay tight on the cam all the time, so no clearance ramp. Since you have to have some clearance with solids- between .0005" and .009", depending on the cam profile and whether the heads and block are iron or aluminum - adjustment is critical and will have to be done often.
No, it shouldn't be done - bad science and a pain to keep the lifters adjusted on the knife edge. A couple of thou too tight and disaster happens, a couple of thou too loose and it is like the castanet tango under there. Some cam profiles in some aluminum heads will drive you crazy with the noise.

If the machinest didnt put restrictors in the block to keep the oil flow the the lower part of the engine i would go to a isky or a moral hydraulic roller lifter...

Okay to clarify, they are hydraulic roller cams, with solid roller lifters, and roller rocker's. I just double and triple checked all valve lash on the motor with the tick/knock. I think I found the problem. I have one reading as low as 5 thousands, but most are between10-18 thousands. Now Dennis remember the valve cover you thought the tick was under, well the #2 cylinder exh valve has 40 thousands lash. You can literally pick up the end of the rocker and let it fall on the valve stem and duplicate the noise only softer of course because there is no load on it like when it's running. Does this sound like what could be causing all of my issues? So what should I be setting lash at, and how hard would it be to convert to hydraulic roller lifters, do the motor's have to come out for that?

You have solids on a Hyd Roller cam. They will make noise. I know a lot of people that run that setup. They usually lash them between 0.004"-0.006" They run the solids cause the Hyd Roller lifters do not like to spin pass the higher RPM's. There is a few threads on here about that.

Engines do not have to come out to go to Hyd Roller lifters.