Plate Oil Coolers
10-29-2010, 08:47 AM
#21
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As others have mentioned, I have a similar problem. My engine is a NA 557 and 696 hp, also a Dom 1050. I have a Hardin 3" tube cooler with integrated power steering cooler, I believe rated for 750 HP. When the engine was out for boring, stroking, etc. (was a ZZ502/502) the oil lines were changed to -12AN. I figured the -12's would be ok. I can't WOT for long because the boat is over powered and the hull doesn't react well at +80 mph (23 Wellcraft Nova). But when I hold it at around 5000 rpms (+,-75 mph) oil temps climb to around 250*. My sender is in the remote oil pad before the cooler. To protect the engine I use Mobile 1 20/50 V-Twin, and changed every 20 hours or so. Will be intersting to follow this thread.
btw, I asked about your water temp because I drilled 3 holes about 3/16 in. in my thermostat. That lowered the water temps from 170ish to around 155 or so at WOT, which in turn lowered my oil temp some. I did that after numerous exchanges with BT (see post 7). For a time BT was also chasing the hot oil gremlin. Oh... Hi Dave (o:
btw, I asked about your water temp because I drilled 3 holes about 3/16 in. in my thermostat. That lowered the water temps from 170ish to around 155 or so at WOT, which in turn lowered my oil temp some. I did that after numerous exchanges with BT (see post 7). For a time BT was also chasing the hot oil gremlin. Oh... Hi Dave (o:
Anyway, for another line of thought that supports your original question Phil, here is what I experience last year. All season 2009 both engines ran 150-175f oil temps no matter how long I ran them WOT. At the end of the season I put smaller pulleys on the blowers and melted 5 pistons in one engine. Over the winter I rebuilt that engine with new larger pistons due to boring needed. Same piston, just larger. I changed nothing else materially with that engine setup or plumbing wise. This yr that engine runs 220f cruising and will go over 260f if I run hard for a long time, like 20 miles. Moral to the story, piston fit in the bore, wrist pin fit, ring end gaps and bearing clearances can all come in to play as well and the only thing you could do when that is the driver is a bigger cooler.
10-29-2010, 08:48 AM
#22
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You don't want the raw water pump to pull water through the cooler. Theoretically the flow would be the same as after the cooler but if you get into a condition where the cooler was causing too much pressure drop the raw water pump could cavitate leading to way lower water flow.
Thanks for the reply. Will take your advice. The reason I asked is I used to have a 30 scarab with cam driven pumps that were mounted to the timing cover. They pulled the water through the tube style engine oil cooler and then through the bell housing tranny oil cooler. I always thought it was plumbed a little odd and what you say makes good sense.
10-29-2010, 09:01 PM
#23
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well the motor is out anyway so I can mess around in the bilge, so I might just get a 13 plate kit and try it out next year.
Can you drill holes in the top of the bullet of an Imco lower? I do think that a little more water when trimmed up couldnt hurt. I am going to open up the LWP anyway, just wondering if a new hole can be added.
Can you drill holes in the top of the bullet of an Imco lower? I do think that a little more water when trimmed up couldnt hurt. I am going to open up the LWP anyway, just wondering if a new hole can be added.
10-31-2010, 09:59 PM
#24
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We run the 13 plate cooler bellhousing oil cooler with -16 water lines with 12 lbs WP. I think more water pressure like 18-20 lbs is fine, but it isn't mandatory. We use the KEPP thermostat/oil filter mount w/HP6 oil filter and all the oil lines are -12. The oil temp stays rock steady at 218 degrees. The oil temp sender is mounted in oil filter/thermo housing. This is with 750 HP @ 6500+ RPM for extended runs....oil temp never changes.
IMO, the key to controlling oil temp is an oil cooler that exceeds you max needs which allows you to maintain your target oil temp with the thermostat. If you don't get your oil to 212, you won't burn off the condensation.
Also, with all the variables that can build oil temp, it is difficult to pick the perfect size oil cooler.....hence, go large and use a oil thermostat.
IMO, the key to controlling oil temp is an oil cooler that exceeds you max needs which allows you to maintain your target oil temp with the thermostat. If you don't get your oil to 212, you won't burn off the condensation.
Also, with all the variables that can build oil temp, it is difficult to pick the perfect size oil cooler.....hence, go large and use a oil thermostat.
10-31-2010, 10:16 PM
#25
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Thanks BP, that is what i had in mind. I want to be able to go WOT for a hour if i feel like (not that i ever would, too expensive to fix stuff) and not have to worry about the oil temps moving.
