Exhaust Headers / 525 Mercury Racing Engines
12-31-2010 | 12:15 PM
#131
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Merritt Is. Fl. USA
Dean
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Everything is for sale @ a certain $$
Everything is for sale @ a certain $$
01-02-2011 | 07:07 PM
#132
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Posts: 6,283
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From: EASTON MA.
I just my CMI back to the factory last month. They had 200 hours on them. CMI will test, seal, repair (if they can) and polish them out for you if you give them $150 per side plus shipping. It is cheap insurance. They can fix problems if the are just starting to develop. I hightly recomend it every 200 for the first check and 100 after that.
They come back like this!
They come back like this!
dry set up my friends cmi headers leaked after 4 yrs we both run in the ocean.I went with hardin on my new set up 1100hp plus. better header.
01-02-2011 | 07:16 PM
#133
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From: EASTON MA.
01-02-2011 | 07:25 PM
#134
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From: EASTON MA.
you got me thinking now on the bringk of buying to sets off Etop headers for my twin 496ho and a read n this post a they allso come apart and leak not as many but some?? i had made my mind up that the Etop were the ones i would buy not too sure now any one had problem with Etop 496 kit ???? paul England
01-02-2011 | 07:32 PM
#135
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From: EASTON MA.
I still have my dry SM dry headers for my spare 509 motor use 8yrs sat for 3 used again for some test runs there fine. my other are the new hardin 5'' dry no time yet. there for a 572 so if I had gen 3s I would use them. but my gen 2s are two small for 1000hp plus.
01-02-2011 | 07:33 PM
#136
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From: EASTON MA.
I believe someone was looking for a single header for a 600 or 700 a couple months back because of a crack issue. I talked to jerry at stainless marine last weak and he says they have had only one failure in 20 + years, an external water leak, he says if the manifold leaks it is designed to leak externally .
01-05-2011 | 10:14 PM
#137
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From: Bell Canyon, CA
I have the same volume and pressure coming out the exhaust as I did before the drains were installed and have had NO temperature increase in the exhaust or pipes. I pull the boat after each run or at max. after a weekend and the motors get a thorough fresh water flush.
The picture below shows no significant water coming out the tubes, plenty of water out the tailpipes, and no steam.
The idea of leaving water sitting in the pipes to me makes no sense if you can get it out. Besides the corrosion factor, let's say you do have a weld failure or crack, if there is no water sitting in the tubes, there is no water to drain back into the cylinders.
Most damage occurs from the motors sitting for awhile, the water slowly seeping into a port. Go to start it up and Boom!
The only drawback I have found is you do get little stains from the water dribbling down the transom. Nothing a little Spray-Nine can't fix.
The picture below shows no significant water coming out the tubes, plenty of water out the tailpipes, and no steam.
The idea of leaving water sitting in the pipes to me makes no sense if you can get it out. Besides the corrosion factor, let's say you do have a weld failure or crack, if there is no water sitting in the tubes, there is no water to drain back into the cylinders.
Most damage occurs from the motors sitting for awhile, the water slowly seeping into a port. Go to start it up and Boom!
The only drawback I have found is you do get little stains from the water dribbling down the transom. Nothing a little Spray-Nine can't fix.
01-06-2011 | 03:12 AM
#138
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From: Delaware
I like it too. If you look at the picture he posted of the boat at the dock they are just above the waterline at idle speeds. I may do that to mine this winter, seems like safe insurance. I drain mine after every use anyway, but this would save me the effort of taking off the hose clamps.
01-06-2011 | 05:40 AM
#139
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Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Hollywood, MD, USA
