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Labor Cost on Changing Valve Springs
I am planning on having the valve springs replaced on my HP500s carbed (225 Hours), and I am curious what kind of labor per engine I will be looking at being billed (hours wise)? I have a good mechanic that normally works on the boat, but I have also been stuck with very large bills following service, as I haven't negotiated the cost before the work has been completed. This time I want to know a ballpark on labor hours I will be looking at being charged on this job? I also don't want any surprises when I get the bill 4 months later (they are a little slow on their billing)
Lastly, based on everything I have read, the Isky 8005 SP is the way to go? Best value for the money? Thanks for the help! Blake |
going to depend on a couple of things...going to be tuff with twins in there...may end up having to pull manifolds to get in there to compress the valve springs. what style manifolds..how long have they been on, salt water etc..not going to be fun..guessing 5-8 hours per engine, and that's real rough...Rob
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I've always pulled the heads to replace springs cause the spring compressor will not fit through the spark plug hole.
:party-smiley-004: |
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It really depends on the room in the boat. Some are just easier to pull out and do the work on the ground. It can end up taking more time to do them in the boat instead of taking them out. They shouldn't charge more than about 5 hours each to pull the engines and drives.
I would not only change the springs. Change out the retainers and locks to 10* models instead of the 7* that it comes with. They are only a few dollars more. I would also change the valve stem seals while you are there. It's cheap insurance. You will have about $300 in parts per engine if you are changing the above parts that I mentioned. If they are on the ground, you are looking at about 5 hours each to remove the exhaust and valve covers, change the springs, retainers, locks and seals, set the valves, and put the covers and exhaust back on. Eddie |
I replaced the valve springs on both engines in my 311 with the motors in the boat.Pulled the manifolds and spark plugs to put clothesline into each cylinder to hold the valves up during the swap.The time to do each engine including setting ignition timing was 12 hours,but I'm old,a younger guy could probably do it in 10.
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Originally Posted by bunky1957
(Post 3265327)
I replaced the valve springs on both engines in my 311 with the motors in the boat.Pulled the manifolds and spark plugs to put clothesline into each cylinder to hold the valves up during the swap.The time to do each engine including setting ignition timing was 12 hours,but I'm old,a younger guy could probably do it in 10.
I agree with doing new retainers, locks, and seals while you are in there. |
Originally Posted by waterboy222
(Post 3265195)
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Originally Posted by Young Performance
(Post 3265201)
It really depends on the room in the boat. Some are just easier to pull out and do the work on the ground. It can end up taking more time to do them in the boat instead of taking them out. They shouldn't charge more than about 5 hours each to pull the engines and drives.
I would not only change the springs. Change out the retainers and locks to 10* models instead of the 7* that it comes with. They are only a few dollars more. I would also change the valve stem seals while you are there. It's cheap insurance. You will have about $300 in parts per engine if you are changing the above parts that I mentioned. If they are on the ground, you are looking at about 5 hours each to remove the exhaust and valve covers, change the springs, retainers, locks and seals, set the valves, and put the covers and exhaust back on. Eddie Also, You say 5 hours per side if they are on the ground, what do you think a total would be for them to charge, as for removing engines, completing the work, and putting the engines back and setting up? Thanks for the info! Blake |
I use retainers and locks from Competition Cams for your application.
The retainers are 740-16 (about $55.00), locks 612-16 (about $25.00). The seals I use are a fluoroelastomer seal with a steel jacket. I don't care for the PC teflon seals. The seals I use run $32.00 per set. As far as labor, you are looking at 5-6 hours per side to pull the engine and drive. The labor to pull the exhaust, valve covers, swap the springs, retainers, seals and locks, adjust the valves and replace the covers and exhaust should run about 5-6 hours per engine. Total for a twin engine should run 20-24 hours of labor, plus parts. Hope this helps. Eddie |
Originally Posted by Young Performance
(Post 3266290)
I use retainers and locks from Competition Cams for your application.
The retainers are 740-16 (about $55.00), locks 612-16 (about $25.00). The seals I use are a fluoroelastomer seal with a steel jacket. I don't care for the PC teflon seals. The seals I use run $32.00 per set. As far as labor, you are looking at 5-6 hours per side to pull the engine and drive. The labor to pull the exhaust, valve covers, swap the springs, retainers, seals and locks, adjust the valves and replace the covers and exhaust should run about 5-6 hours per engine. Total for a twin engine should run 20-24 hours of labor, plus parts. Hope this helps. Eddie |
I was not including removing the heads. There is no need to remove them if you are just changing the springs. If it needs a valve job, then obviously the heads will need to be removed.
Eddie |
You should be more concerned with the quality of the mechanic performing the service than the cost ...cheap , unqualified labor always bites you in the ass later .
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Originally Posted by HALLETT FAN
(Post 3266542)
You should be more concerned with the quality of the mechanic performing the service than the cost ...cheap , unqualified labor always bites you in the ass later .
It usually creates more problems in the end but not always i guess.. |
Originally Posted by wjb21ndtown
(Post 3266301)
Sounds like it will be around $1,600 (20 hours @ $65 per hour + parts). If you're mechanically inclined at all, I would take the heads off yourself, drop them off at the machine shop, and pay the mechanic to put everything back together. It should save you about 1/2...
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Originally Posted by Young Performance
(Post 3266290)
I use retainers and locks from Competition Cams for your application.
The retainers are 740-16 (about $55.00), locks 612-16 (about $25.00). The seals I use are a fluoroelastomer seal with a steel jacket. I don't care for the PC teflon seals. The seals I use run $32.00 per set. As far as labor, you are looking at 5-6 hours per side to pull the engine and drive. The labor to pull the exhaust, valve covers, swap the springs, retainers, seals and locks, adjust the valves and replace the covers and exhaust should run about 5-6 hours per engine. Total for a twin engine should run 20-24 hours of labor, plus parts. Hope this helps. Eddie |
Originally Posted by Philm
(Post 3266694)
5-6 hours a side to pull engine and drive and reinstall seems a bit high. I guess that is a fair estimate but I would expect it to take less time than that depending on the room available in the engine compartment.
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Originally Posted by Philm
(Post 3266694)
5-6 hours a side to pull engine and drive and reinstall seems a bit high. I guess that is a fair estimate but I would expect it to take less time than that depending on the room available in the engine compartment.
By the way, my shop rate is only $65/hr. That's not an excuse to charge more hours, just stating my rate, as most are at $90+/hr. |
It took me 10 hours yesterday to pull 2 engines start to finish on stands and hatch back on. And I'd done these many times. I'd think on a boat that is unfamiliar to you it would take much longer.
If you have more than about 200hrs on those engines I would certainly opt for pulling the heads and doing a valve job at the same time. The incremental expense will be minimal. |
Originally Posted by blue thunder
(Post 3267350)
It took me 10 hours yesterday to pull 2 engines start to finish on stands and hatch back on. And I'd done these many times. I'd think on a boat that is unfamiliar to you it would take much longer.
If you have more than about 200hrs on those engines I would certainly opt for pulling the heads and doing a valve job at the same time. The incremental expense will be minimal. Geez, my humor - :bigbird: |
Originally Posted by Young Performance
(Post 3267233)
And it may. You are correct in that it depends on the boat. Some are much worse than others. Some need interior removed, some have rusted fasteners, some need the hatch removed, etc. It takes time to do it right. Everything needs to be covered to protect the paint and upholstery. As a shop, you have to factor in all the time it takes to cover everything, take them out, remove the bell housing, coupler and flywheel, and get them on a stand, and pick up everything. It's not just the removal.
By the way, my shop rate is only $65/hr. That's not an excuse to charge more hours, just stating my rate, as most are at $90+/hr. |
Thank you Jeremy. I consider myself lucky that I get to do something I truly love to do. i enjoy going to work everyday. Sometimes it can be frustrating, but what isn't? It makes those good days that much better. If you didn't have some bad days, then you wouldn't appreciate the good ones as much:evilb:
Keep after it buddy. Hope to meet you one day. Eddie |
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