You must have me confused with someone else. No carwashes, I am a Dentist.

No carwashes ever, must have me confused with someone else. I am a Dentist.

whoops. sorry. my short term memory is not good.

:drink:

OK. Then it was a new X1 1.65 drive 300hr @425hp broke the 1.65 X1 upper gears followed by a second brand new X1 1.65 drive 350hrs @600hp broke the 1.65 X1 shaft but the X1 gears were all still ok, finally a third brand new XR 1.50 drive 100hr @600hp wore out the upper 1.5 XR gears correct?

If I remember correctly your 600HO still uses the stock 425HO engine oil cooler and you shut down WOT runs as soon as the engine oil temp gets to 250F. That being the case based on my testing of an X1 1.5 your drive oil temps should not get hotter than that especially with your better drive shower. What drive oil do you use?

Well kinda.

I have the stock oil cooler going to another larger cooler (two oil coolers) plus a thermostat etc.

I don't run engine oil to 250. I stop below that. :drink:

Use AMS Oil AGM. Always have on all those drives. Change every 25 - 30 hours MAX.

Just think of all the oil you save when you go with Arneson. :evilb:

Sometimes engine oil creeps up there though..

BadDog did you ever check the mph vs rpm on that 27 Mirage Plus prop to determine the % slip on your boat?

My mistake. What is the size of your additional larger oil cooler? Did you retain all the stock 496HO oil plumbing lines and fittings along with the stock oil cooler and just splice in the extra oil cooler?

I can buy a lot of oil for the price of any drive much less an Arnesen. The Arnesen sounds like the perfect drive for your type of hard charging boating. I mostly just cruse around with a load of folks or wake board.

Is the "AMS Oil AGM" Amsoil Severe Duty 75W90 or exactly what?

SD,
I completely agree with your thinking (that the Arneson conversion is the way to go compared to the bravo alternatives), but when you're looking at well over $50k to convert over twins, I would suggest you might be better off selling the boat and buying something with better drives already on it...

What I don't understand is if you convert to a scx but use the "sc" lower you are still using a extremely weak lower, at least in my case. I could have bought a scx or something else by now when you add up the 15 sets of lower gears I have ate up in past 10 years plus what went into converting my bravo to the Max Worx stuff AND buying a complete new max worx upgraded drive for a spare and all the rebuilds/bearings parts and oil. My boat is getting old now though and I own all this crap now so I am not going to spend 10,000 plus dollars on another new drive, Smitty

What I've heard is that the SCX lower doesnt go thru the
water real well, unless its set high enough where its surfacing,
most are running deep, and thats why thy're using the more efficent
SC lower