cowboy5214

I recently bought a 88 240 sport with a 550 stroker lol, dyno was at 600 hp torque was in the area of 620/640 can't remember, any ways it was dynoed at 6600 rpm, it has adjustable rpm's the guy i bought it from says the rpm are 200 less than the dial, right now it is set at 5800- the 200 so 5600 yes my tach is not working so i can not be sure the boat runs 77 to 78 mph if I turn it up to 6000 rpm will it be ok . the block is a 540 tall block with 502 z06 heads the heads are not done but the engine builder said if he does the heads it will give me 150 hp more but the motor was built to have the heads done. so if you could let me know what u think thanks


P.s yes I am living on the edge with a bravo 1 lol

CAM

What first comes to mind is why so many "lol" in your post? As for the heads, the builder was probably reffering to a BUILT set of ported heads complete with new roller rockers, spring, retainers and new mounting hardware to keep them planted in higher RPM range.
My last thought, if you have all that done to the engine is to upgrade your drive before it downgrades your boating experience unexpectedly...

ezstriper

well 1st off never heard of a 550..what bore/stroke is that ?? yes good heads will make a huge difference....but if you are concerned about the drive why pull the pin the rest of the way LOL

Young Performance

First, I would love to know what he is going to do to those heads to make an additional 150 hp. That's not gonna happen. He may be talking about changing them out to another set of better flowing heads, because you will not gain 150 hp from porting a set of heads on a N/A engine.
Next, never heard of 550 ci. As asked in the previous post, what is the bore and stroke. Also, if it is 550+/- ci, I can't see how it would only make 600 hp all the way up at 6600 rpm.
You need to know where the engine made it's peak power. Next, you need to get a functioning tach. You can't tell anything without it. You need to prop the engine near it's peak rpm, whatever that may be.
Lastly, no Bravo drive is going to be very happy at 6600 rpm.
Eddie

cowboy5214

Sorry guys it is a 540 tall block stroked out to a 550

jeffswav

You need to do a little homework, find out what crank, rods and pistons were used. That would tell us what bore and stroke you have. Your post comes off a little strange, give some more details about your heads and cam also.

Rookie

iTrader: (4)

If it is the boat and engine I think it is, (if you bought it on the Westside of Michigan I know it well) it is a Merlin block 4.25" stroke with a 4.560" bore. 555 cu/in

rchevelle71

iTrader: (1)

First thing is to fix the tach, a LOT cheaper than a drive, or a set of heads.

Griff

Really???????? No such thing. To get 10 ci more you would have to bore it some goofy amount.

Maybe you should worry about fixing the tach and finding out more about what you bought, before you worry about changing stuff.

A bravo drive can live just fine behind 600hp if treated right.

Rookie

iTrader: (4)

Ok, Seeing that you are close to Holland Mi I am going to assume the engine in question is the the one I referred to earlier. You have a Merlin block with a Scat 4.25" crank with SRP 4.560" pistons. It came out to 555 or 557 cu/in. You have Edelbrock ZZ502 heads. The piston head combination gave it more compression than desirable. The heads were then sent to JimV (Valako Race Heads) to have the chambers ported to get the compression down to ~10.5:1. He might have also done something to the short turns. You also have a Crane 741 cam. The engine dynoed ~610HP, 632TQ between 5600-5800. If this boat is the Airborne Baja. The boat runs real strong and might need more prop. It also has a Teague lower on the Bravo.