Offshoreonly.com

Offshoreonly.com (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/)
-   General Q & A (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q-20/)
-   -   Rotella 15W40 (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/252174-rotella-15w40.html)

RunninHotRacing163.1 04-27-2011 07:20 AM


Originally Posted by wtfo (Post 3388054)
That's kinda silly.

Everyhing I've read says that for the best wear / abrasion resistance between "grey iron" surfaces, it gets better with zddp additive until around 1200 ppm and there's little benefit after that. Comp cams, Lucas and several others make well done formulations that will put the zddp levels around that point when added to regular automotive oils (synthetic, non-synthetic and blends). Such additives are formulated by chemists with substantial specific experience combined with testing before products are released so they will increase scuff protection without creating a foaming issue.

Just my experience and impressions based on a lot of reading and some advice from engine builders, mechanics, etc.. that I trust.

Respectfully submitted...


ps. Your intuition is nothing short of amazing. Believe it or not, I really do happen to have a PhD in chemistry... ;-)

+100 :drink::drink:

outriggers 04-27-2011 08:23 AM

I use synthetic Rotela (blue jug) in almost everthing around here, wife's Range Rover, truck, tractors, generators, gas or diesel. Boat gets Mobil 1 V-twin 20-50 with some cam shield. www.cam-shield.com

minxguy 04-27-2011 11:34 AM


Originally Posted by 07DominatorSS (Post 3388042)
Yes really.

I would like to know then, what is too much.

I have been running oils with over 1600 PPM for decades and never had a foaming issue. Never even heard that foaming is an issue with zinc until your post. Honestly, I think you are mis-informed.

Ken

JRider 04-27-2011 12:20 PM

I have a 575sci with stock flat tappet cam. I run whatever diesel oil (Delvac, Retella) 15/40 is on sale and add a bottle of STP (high zinc content). One has to ask how much zinc is in the bottle of STP?

I get some gas dilusion in the oil after some hard running so I dont mind the thickening of the oil with stp. I also chang my oil often enough I cant justify the price of synthetics. I would have to say that the oil is not even close to being broken down when I change it...it is more diluted that anything. The main advantage of synthetics is that they dont break down as fast...if the oil does not get to a break down point what is the sense in running synthetic?

I run with a guy that changes his oil (Amsoil) after every day of running! I think that is overkill...and expensive. I think I will tell him to save the used and I will run it in my buick riv 3800 daily driver!

I am not even close to an expert...this just comes from (problem free) experience.

35fountain 04-27-2011 12:54 PM

I always said
The cost of synthetic oil doesn't come close to the cost of broken engine parts

Just my 2 cents

dogturd21 04-27-2011 04:13 PM


Originally Posted by 35fountain (Post 3388205)
I use Amsoil 20-50 Full synthetic oil

http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbu...t%20Tappet.pdf

AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils Phosphorus Zinc Level
Level (ppm) (ppm)
AMO 10W-40 Synthetic
Premium Protection Motor Oil 1265 1378
ARO 20W-50 Synthetic
Premium Protection Motor Oil 1266 1379
HDD Series 3000 Synthetic
5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil 1266 1379
AME 15W-40 Synthetic Heavy
Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil 1267 1377
AMSOIL Synthetic Racing Oils Phosphorus Zinc Level
Level (ppm) (ppm)
RD20 Dominator Synthetic
Racing Oil 5W-20 1424 1575
RD30 Dominator Synthetic
Racing Oil 10W-30 1424 1575
RD50 Dominator Synthetic
Racing Oil 15W-50 1424 1575
AHR SAE 60 Synthetic Super
Heavy Weight Racing Oil 1265 1375

I use the exact same oil. Now Fountain, WTF are my exhaust risers !! :)

Fountain4402 04-27-2011 04:21 PM


Originally Posted by 35fountain (Post 3388551)
I always said
The cost of synthetic oil doesn't come close to the cost of broken engine parts

Just my 2 cents

but the problem being is this is personal opinion. With a normal boat and driver I would like to see a comparison test of dino oil and synthetic. I have ran dino oil in everything but my 2010 camaro as GM says to do it. ANd I have never had one engine problem.

The key to oil is this. 1. You change it. 2. You monitor it. 3. You put oil in it. After this its anybodys guess

07DominatorSS 04-27-2011 09:46 PM


Originally Posted by minxguy (Post 3388484)
I would like to know then, what is too much.

I have been running oils with over 1600 PPM for decades and never had a foaming issue. Never even heard that foaming is an issue with zinc until your post. Honestly, I think you are mis-informed.

Ken

Ken, if its formulated from the start with it, no big problem. But when you start messing with the formulation, i.e. adding zddp additive, how does anyone know what is too much? I know this may sound stupid, but why then not just run straight additive in the crankcase, if, supposedly you can't add too much???

minxguy 04-28-2011 06:01 AM


Originally Posted by 07DominatorSS (Post 3389055)
Ken, if its formulated from the start with it, no big problem. But when you start messing with the formulation, i.e. adding zddp additive, how does anyone know what is too much? I know this may sound stupid, but why then not just run straight additive in the crankcase, if, supposedly you can't add too much???

I would agree with everything you are saying and I won't comment on the obvious bait of your last sentence.

What is the level for foam? You stated it would happen, at what level?

Some of us would like to know.

Ken

35fountain 04-28-2011 08:08 AM


Originally Posted by dogturd21 (Post 3388747)
I use the exact same oil. Now Fountain, WTF are my exhaust risers !! :)

smart oil choice....Risers ??...What Risers ?? LOL


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:02 AM.


Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.