Rotella 15W40
 

I have heard a pile of good things about this oil, and it seems pretty reasonable, is there only one form of it? I have heard there are 2 versions, one for an engine with spark plugs and one for engines that fire on compression [diesel] which one do you guys recommend for a marine application?

Thanks!
Michael

I run Rotella in commercial diesels and love it, run it in my Cummins powered truck too. I am sure it would be decent for a boat engine, but with so many good synthetics out there they are tough to beat.

If you run the Rotella use the gas engine version, the diesel version has different additives to deal with that particular type of engine

You actually want to run the diesel oil, it contains zinc, which is what makes it excellent for marine applications.

How do you tell the difference between the gas and diesel oil?

Michael

Do a search on previous oil threads, there is a fella on here that does extensive oil testing and he monitors what the current ratings are and current additives. He really knows his stuff but I can't remember his name at the moment

Ditto we run Rotella in the heavy equipt & semi , & 6 wheeler and Brad Penn in the boat motors ... and if your worried about Zinc pick up a bottle of ZPD :drink:

Micheal, Rotella is "goof proof". The oil has both diesel "C" and gas "S" ratingings on the bottle.

Ken

If its certified for gas use by the American Petroleum Institute (API) then it will have the Sx certification, like SL, SM etc. If its certified for diesel use, it will have Cx where x = D, etc. For gas, the certification level is now at SN (at least). I do not follow diesel so I cannot comment there.

If the oil has both the Sx and Cx approvals then its rated for use in both, which is actually somewhat common. Its possible to have a very recent Sx rating and an older Cx rating, and the reverse can also be true. Keep in mind that the most recent Sx ratings are not always better for older engines, as they tend to reduce levels of zinc and other additives that are better for older engines but possibly bad for catalytic converters. Much of the push for these newer standards is an attempt to get cat converters and other emissions equipment to last longer. The push for lighter weight (like 0w-20, 5w20) oils is mostly for fuel economy reasons.

I would recommend using an oil optimized for your application (gas vs. diesel) - if it meets the other certification then thats a bonus. I think Rotella comes in a full synthetic version now. I personally do not use Rotella but I have heard lots of good things about it, and no complaints.

Fixx
 

And just to make things more confusing their are several different types of rotella,,walmart being grade 1 and being worse of many. :eek:

Wow! A lot to digest, i run a 454 EFI, its a 1995 which I think is hydraulic roller, but, not sure. bone stock except Stainless marine exhaust. I put MAYBE 50 hours a summer on the boat.

If anyone can tell me if the motor has a hydraulic roller set up or not, I would appreciate it. I had the entire top end of the motor done 2 years ago.

Thanks!
Michael

1995 should be a GEN V, and should have flat tappets. But, that was around the changeover to gen VI i believe. Post a pic of your timing chain cover.

Whoever did the entire top end for you should know. Or look at your reciepts. Roller lifters are more expensive than flat tappets by quite a bit!

I just stopped at "Wally Mart" and the 15W40 they sell here is in 9.5 litre jugs(about 10quarts) its "Rotella T"
I dont see much else on the label, will this work and/or what or where should I look on the label?

THANKS!
Michael

Boat is at cottage, but, Thanks! What will be different about timing cover? I will look when I go next week.

Fixx
 

stamped steel,gen v cast alunimum with a smoothe face,gen VI,roller cam..

Thanks! I will have a look next week, then get oil, I assume if its a flat tappet cam I shouldnt use Rotella? Unless I use the additive as well?

A few minutes of reading here and you will have all your answers.

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...ucts_home.html

http://www.deloperformance.com/produ...FUa8KgodMEETFA

http://www.mobil.us/USA-English-LCW/...aspx?WT.srch=1

I sent Hydrocruiser a PM recently about the Rotella, Delo, and Delvac
diesel oils sold by Wal-Mart. He said they are all extremely similar and
equally excellent. Prices range from $9.50 to $12.00 per gallon. I use
Rotella T 15W-40 conventional now but would not hesitate to use
Delo or Delvac if they go on sale!

I called the number on the Rotella container about a month ago and asked specifically about the zinc additive. The person told me the zinc additive has been removed from Rotella T and Rotella products. Valvoline VR-1 is the most available oil that still has zinc additive, it's in a silver bottle not white. Straight 40 is what I use in the naturally aspirated marine engines, 50 in supercharged. Diesel engines do not have high spring pressures on the lifters due to the low rpm, they really dont need the zinc. Hope this is helpful.

so why not just run mobile one (or your favorite synthetic) and put zddp additive in it?

Are you a chemist? If one was to add too much Zinc, it will cause the oil to foam, and you lose all protection of the oil. You should NEVER add anything to any oil, PERIOD!

For what its worth I use rotella diesel oil in my ford diesel and my boat.

? Really?

What is too much zinc? Over 1200PPM, 1500PPM?

Ken

i use it in the diesel and in the boat. Just picked up 16qts for the twins for about 50 bucks at walmart. Shell rotells oil is the best bang for the buck. It has an SM rating on back which I beleive is good for gasoline engines.

Oil is something that everybody has opinion. I for one feel people get label crazy and spend way to much money on oil. Now if you are racing or have a crazy set up then sure I would probably go with some crazy oil. but if you are the average joe smoe with a 454 or 502 the standard oil that meets manufactures specs(even though what merc calls for is straight 40w, and even most service departments wont even do straight 40w) will be fine with what they use. I see no reason for the average boater to spend 10 bucks a qt on oil. If rotella keeps my diesel kicking and semis kicking its goog enough for the old BBC.

Ditto

have had good luck with Delvac as well

Get it from a good supplier of industrial lubricants. I only ran that in the marina forklifts, travellift, trucks etc.

Five gallon buckets are the way to go, plus you have a container to put the oil in when finished. Save $5-10. My truck takes 13 qts alone

Yes really.

That's kinda silly.

Everyhing I've read says that for the best wear / abrasion resistance between "grey iron" surfaces, it gets better with zddp additive until around 1200 ppm and there's little benefit after that. Comp cams, Lucas and several others make well done formulations that will put the zddp levels around that point when added to regular automotive oils (synthetic, non-synthetic and blends). Such additives are formulated by chemists with substantial specific experience combined with testing before products are released so they will increase scuff protection without creating a foaming issue.

Just my experience and impressions based on a lot of reading and some advice from engine builders, mechanics, etc.. that I trust.

Respectfully submitted...


ps. Your intuition is nothing short of amazing. Believe it or not, I really do happen to have a PhD in chemistry... ;-)

Agreed!

I use Amsoil 20-50 Full synthetic oil

http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbu...t%20Tappet.pdf

AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils Phosphorus Zinc Level
Level (ppm) (ppm)
AMO 10W-40 Synthetic
Premium Protection Motor Oil 1265 1378
ARO 20W-50 Synthetic
Premium Protection Motor Oil 1266 1379
HDD Series 3000 Synthetic
5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil 1266 1379
AME 15W-40 Synthetic Heavy
Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil 1267 1377
AMSOIL Synthetic Racing Oils Phosphorus Zinc Level
Level (ppm) (ppm)
RD20 Dominator Synthetic
Racing Oil 5W-20 1424 1575
RD30 Dominator Synthetic
Racing Oil 10W-30 1424 1575
RD50 Dominator Synthetic
Racing Oil 15W-50 1424 1575
AHR SAE 60 Synthetic Super
Heavy Weight Racing Oil 1265 1375

+100 :drink::drink:

I use synthetic Rotela (blue jug) in almost everthing around here, wife's Range Rover, truck, tractors, generators, gas or diesel. Boat gets Mobil 1 V-twin 20-50 with some cam shield. www.cam-shield.com

I would like to know then, what is too much.

I have been running oils with over 1600 PPM for decades and never had a foaming issue. Never even heard that foaming is an issue with zinc until your post. Honestly, I think you are mis-informed.

Ken

I have a 575sci with stock flat tappet cam. I run whatever diesel oil (Delvac, Retella) 15/40 is on sale and add a bottle of STP (high zinc content). One has to ask how much zinc is in the bottle of STP?

I get some gas dilusion in the oil after some hard running so I dont mind the thickening of the oil with stp. I also chang my oil often enough I cant justify the price of synthetics. I would have to say that the oil is not even close to being broken down when I change it...it is more diluted that anything. The main advantage of synthetics is that they dont break down as fast...if the oil does not get to a break down point what is the sense in running synthetic?

I run with a guy that changes his oil (Amsoil) after every day of running! I think that is overkill...and expensive. I think I will tell him to save the used and I will run it in my buick riv 3800 daily driver!

I am not even close to an expert...this just comes from (problem free) experience.

I always said
The cost of synthetic oil doesn't come close to the cost of broken engine parts

Just my 2 cents

I use the exact same oil. Now Fountain, WTF are my exhaust risers !! :)

but the problem being is this is personal opinion. With a normal boat and driver I would like to see a comparison test of dino oil and synthetic. I have ran dino oil in everything but my 2010 camaro as GM says to do it. ANd I have never had one engine problem.

The key to oil is this. 1. You change it. 2. You monitor it. 3. You put oil in it. After this its anybodys guess

Ken, if its formulated from the start with it, no big problem. But when you start messing with the formulation, i.e. adding zddp additive, how does anyone know what is too much? I know this may sound stupid, but why then not just run straight additive in the crankcase, if, supposedly you can't add too much???

I would agree with everything you are saying and I won't comment on the obvious bait of your last sentence.

What is the level for foam? You stated it would happen, at what level?

Some of us would like to know.

Ken

smart oil choice....Risers ??...What Risers ?? LOL