The May June issue of powerboat mag has an entire article about this. If you have checked for the oil galley plugs. Then the other two issues they cover are the oil pump which they say should be a mellings 10778-c which has grooves cut in the housing to prevent cavitation or they sead to use a 10778 mellings which is the same as above but with out the cavitation protection, but they both have the correct reef valve spring. The other issue they covered that I haven't seen mentioned in here is you bearing clearances. They say the main bearings should be .003 in on 1 through 4 mains, and .0034 on rear, and connecting .0027 to .003. Your bearings on the cam is something else to check. I am not sure what the clearances should be on those. Hope it's just the pump because the bearing can be a lot of work. Good luck Eric.

Yes mechanical and electric are both the same, i read about the ones under cam sprocket today and intake that is our next step.. Appreciate all the help guys...
The motor is a generation 6 with morel lifters and new pushrods.

The motor has only ran on a trailer 4 times now for 5 min sessions mainly cheacking this issure.
The boat is not in the water so there cant me cavitations issues, motor is basically level
The original oil pump was damn near laying on the bottom of pan, we riased it up a **** hair (3/8) lol and re shaped pan a bit..
Again original pump ran like a bat out of hell before rebuild.
We checked main tolerances when installing but they were fine before we rebuilt anyway. Motor only cam out to get new head and cam , but then said **** it and bored it .030 and through domed pistons in it with cometic gaskets .027 I think to got 9.3:1 compression. Has new timing chains thats why i cant see it missing oil galley plugs but well see, any one have pics of these plugs???????????/? thanks Adam

You still do not get it. I relize the small oil cooler, restrive fittings and lines are not the cause of your current problem of low oil pressure. That setup will not support more HP, you will run your oil hot and destroy your engine. I know thats one of the things I did wrong. After you blow it up you will blame everyone but yourself.

Here is what I did to improve oiling. I now have a 3" combo cooler from EMI, there are many other companies that make them. I switched out all the lines and fittings to 12AN, get a new filter relocator, I use the one from canton racing. Make sure the center valve on the oil pad is removed and the one on the side is plugged or has the 30psi valve. I also used a rotory tool and cleaned up the ports on the filter housing. Use a oversize oil filter and synthetic oil after break in. Hope this may help you. I have not had a engine failure since I did this.

Pantera on this forum the post "restrictors or plugs" He has pictures of the lifter valley plug locations. His question does not apply to you, hydraulic lifters cannot use restrictors.

Im going to check if the blogs are in the intake manifold and under cam gear?

Regarding the oil cooler ill look into changing it out, just want to get psi right and get backon water for a little while ill take it easy on the motor and install a oil temp gauge.

Did you have the crank ground. If so are you sure the correct bearings were used for reassembly. It's really starting to sound like you need to disassemble the entire engine and recheck all your bearing clearences.

Took of intake manifold today plugs were in . Will check for the ones in front of cam tomarrow...

Didnt do anything to crank, i did check bairing tollerances when assebled...

I am wondering if plugs are in front of motor can it be the bypass springs in oil filter?

Its pumping like a champ to the distributer housing when i spin with drill....

What clearance did you set the rods/mains? You should cut open the oil filter and look for metal before running it any more.

The bearing clearences on the crank, mains and rods pretty much determine your oil pressure, of course unless a plug was left out. As blue thunder suggested you may want to cut open your oil filter. You may have spun a bearing and now have excess clearence there. Or the worn crank ate up the new bearings.

I assume you put new bearings in it. New bearings on a worn crank don't always work out well.
Kind of like putting new brake pads on a old worn out rotor.