Low oil psi 454 500HP
#41
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Bob m had me check the o ring under rear
Rear rear main it was missing the o ring so I will try to start it out of the boAt tomarrow, the oil pump was a hv77m I think ..will check tomorrow , the oil lines go from the outside of adapter to oil filter outside then back through center of filter into motor.
Rear rear main it was missing the o ring so I will try to start it out of the boAt tomarrow, the oil pump was a hv77m I think ..will check tomorrow , the oil lines go from the outside of adapter to oil filter outside then back through center of filter into motor.
#42
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The pan had a slight dent in it nothing insane, so we tapped it out and the old pickup had touched the dented service, so we fixed pan and adjusted the new one a little higher , measuring to keep it 3/8 of the bottom...
Since the rockers were loose the motor was making a ticking noise, so were going to adjust with motor running to get rid of that problem, the oil is straight 40 weight, used in diesal trucks, we put this in after trying the 15w40 and haveing low psi
Since the rockers were loose the motor was making a ticking noise, so were going to adjust with motor running to get rid of that problem, the oil is straight 40 weight, used in diesal trucks, we put this in after trying the 15w40 and haveing low psi
sounds like your doing the right thing. listen to these guys on here, they know what they are doing.
#43
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I solved the issue.... Thanks to everyones help....
We put the wrong main and rod bearing in. We took out stock flat top pistons that were stock so we assumed the crank was stock. So we put stock bairing on, today i dug through my old stuff and found .01 on bairing then we discovered this was out issue, should have boat in tomarrow thanks again guys.. Adam
We put the wrong main and rod bearing in. We took out stock flat top pistons that were stock so we assumed the crank was stock. So we put stock bairing on, today i dug through my old stuff and found .01 on bairing then we discovered this was out issue, should have boat in tomarrow thanks again guys.. Adam
#44
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I solved the issue.... Thanks to everyone's help....
We put the wrong main and rod bearing in. We took out stock flat top pistons that were stock so we assumed the crank was stock. So we put stock bearing on, today i dug through my old stuff and found .01 on bearing then we discovered this was out issue, should have boat in tomorrow thanks again guys.. Adam
We put the wrong main and rod bearing in. We took out stock flat top pistons that were stock so we assumed the crank was stock. So we put stock bearing on, today i dug through my old stuff and found .01 on bearing then we discovered this was out issue, should have boat in tomorrow thanks again guys.. Adam
One other thing. Don't mean to disappoint ya but.............aint gonna make 500hp!! Have fun!
#46
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FYI - just because 1 shell says 1 under or over doesn't mean they are all like that. I rarely put an engine together that has a straight run of all the same bearing shell thicknesses.
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Pickle: We did check 2 rod bairing clearances when we originally put together and they were in spec with the plastagauge, we did rush reason being it took a month for a cam and set of springs to arrive. **** happens seemed as if motor had never been torn down do to stock flat top pistons, we assumed wrong apparently,
500hp is what bob m told me, y do you say other wise?
I do still have slight ticking in scorpion rockers, had down 3/4 turn, and also adjusting while running. I take it i need to readjust or is this ok?
500hp is what bob m told me, y do you say other wise?
I do still have slight ticking in scorpion rockers, had down 3/4 turn, and also adjusting while running. I take it i need to readjust or is this ok?
Last edited by pantera232; 05-07-2011 at 08:04 PM. Reason: add
#48
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It is very common to mix a standard upper bearing shell with a + or - .001 shell to achieve correct clearance on the journal. Just because you found one does not mean they are all -.001. You need to find someone with a dial bore guage to accurately measure the final clearance of each journal. A typical engine assembly by a qualified person requires the engine to be assembled three times. First all bearing shells torqued in place and measured, compare to what is required. Dissasembly, install correct cocktail of bearings and torque, verify results, dissasemble. Finally clean everything and assemble the final time with the crankshaft in place. Remember to check end play, you may have to remove material from the rear main bearing shell if it is to tight. The same applies to the rod bearings. Torque and measure twice, then clean and final assemble. A properly measured, cleaned, and assembled short block including filing rings and degree the cam will take about 8 hours. I watched a guy at an engine rebuilder supplier put one together with an impact. He completed the short block in just under an hour, he didn't measure a single thing, he was really proud of his speed.
#49
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All the bearing were not standard size they all had a .o1 size on them.. We made a mistake and put standards in there and had low oil pressure as soon as we put the new .01 in oil pressure shot up...