Stereo issue with amp
 

Ok got all the speakers in and hooked up the head unit and only the tweeters worked. The amp came on with power but isntantly went to a fault light. This is is what I checked, i made sure the power and ground wires were correct, the speakers wires were on the correct poles. It was a new amp, 600w subs were 8in pyles beleive they are 400w.

The only think i can think of is the amp was in cabin and I was running 8ga wire, so from there to battery is probably 10-12 feet maybe it was to long for it.

ANy other ideas.

the length isnt the issue there. i would have to think a wiring issue

yeah I dont know the blue LED light came on in amp and the book said something with connections. I double checked everything. I didnt have the ground directly to the block, but that shouldnt have mattered.

The inline fuse seemed kind of flimsy and the wires inside it seemd to be barely scewed in but they were screwed in

That's probably a little light for the power wiring but that shouldn't cause it to instantly go into fault mode.
Does it instantly go into fault mode with NO speakers connected?
Check the voltage at the end of the power cables where your hooking the amp to or try hooking the amp up temporarily right next to the battery - SHORT cable. That could rule out or in your long power run.

yeah true, it flips straight to fault. My thoughts that the wire might be small but its should work the amp book even said 8 ga would work. I guess I can try it closer to the batter thats an option.

Fault light are usually due to the amp shorting or nOt enOugh batt to supply the power. Was the motor on? Batt charged up? Do you have to much hooked up to amp and it can not perform at that ohm load? Turn gains all the way down and see it stays on.

Battery was new and charged the battery switch was set to both and engines were off. Its a 600 Watt amp, subs were 8in 400w a peice. I had the gain set on low and nothing, then put it mid way and still nothing. The amp should handle those two speakers fine. I guess re-check the wiring, if thats good maybe it a chity amp

Where is yOur ground at? You said tweeters wrk whatare they hooked up to

i used ground on the battery, tweeters are hooked to the deck.

i had that happen once..was a shorted speaker....dissconnect all the speakers and turn the amp on..if it still does it then theres something internaly in the amp...if not then hook one speaker at a time till it happens again...and the last speaker you hooked up is probably shorted.

Exactly what he said, the only other thing would be battery voltage needs to be at leat 12+. Should really be closer tto 13V. The only other thing could be voltage of the remote turn on wire. Some amps are more sensitive than other when it relates to how they behave. This should also be at least 12V, you can jump the battery + terminal on the amp to the remote to rule this out.

How many subs? Are they DVC/SVC (Single voice coil or dual voice coil)? If you have more than 2 subs and the subs are wired in parrallel, you may be dropping the resistance too low and the amp may not be able to handle it. That is something to check too. A lot of amps are stable at 2ohms and going less could cause problems. You need to know the specs of the amps and subs, then wire them accordingly so you get the right resistance.

Truth be told most amps will turn on and run under 9 volts. A majority of the time your system is on its drawing enough to drop below 12vts. So with everything disconnected and only ground, remote turn on and positive connections hooked up. If the amp faults immediately the amps cashed out. Most of the time its the power array inside. Time for a new one. You can call the manufacture and send it back or take it back to the shop you purchased it at and they will exchange it for you. hope this helps.

amp was new and was a 600w two channel, speakers are 8in 1 1/2'' high temperature voice coil ,Frequency response: 25-2.5kHz. Speakers were hooked from speakers to AMP with positive to positive and negative to negative, they were daisy chained etc. The first time I turned the AMP on they gain was on Low and then went to midrange. The inline fuse for the power wire was one of those there you put stripped wire into it and clamp it down with an allen screw.

one question is it had a remot wire for the head unit which I wired and it a had a switch with looked like telephone wire cord for another remote.

The telephone looking plug is usually for a bass remote that connects to the amp.

Did you disconnect the subs and power up the amp to see if it kept power with no load on it?

I messed around with it again and think I fried it. Or its defective. I ordered a Sony Explod 600 W amp it will be here tomorrow. I will try that again and see whats going on.

4402, before you hook up the new amp I would use a multimeter and check the ohm load present at your sub wire leads. (If you haven't already done that) you could be walking down the same road to a blown up amp if its has been wired incorrectly or you have a shorted coil some were. This would only take two seconds to complete and would give you some answers as well. If you need some help pm me and I will walk you through it on the phone or email. JT

Especially on that Sony.. They haven't had the best track record for equipment and like the "protect" mode if the resistance on your sub setup is too low.

ok thanks. Yeah I got a meter. If you could PM me the steps. Like I said. The wires are brand new and + wire is on + pole of battery and like wise for - wire and pole. I had both battery switches switched to both.

Update.
Got the new amp hooked it up no go. Then I moved the amp closer to the battery and got power and 1 Ohm with a shorter ground cable. Seemed to not hit like it should but it was working. I will shorten the power wire and speaker wires should that do it? Its also a 4 channel amp, should I bridge it or not. They are 400 watt subs

It sounds like you should really take it to a stereo shop so you know it is done right. Just to install an amp should cost too much. They know what they are doing and it will save you the headache. Good luck

thanks. I have hooked up in a car before with no issue. I really think it was the length of the ground cable, speaker wire, and power cord. Tomorrow Im going to shorten everything, clean up all the connections. I think it should be good at that point.

I have done may sound systems in cars also, I even did the systems in my last to boats and it is different. In my new boat I had it done professionally and all I can say it WOW!!! what a difference and I also wanted it to be someone elses problem if there are issues. I'm sure you will get it all worked out. Good luck and keep us posted.

4402, Give me a call your speakers are out of phase. common problem

the right pole is going to the right pole on speaker wires. So your saying I have the left hooked up as right and vice versa

What is the fuse rating for the amp itself?

there is 2 x 25AMP fuses on the AMP

so are these dual or single voice coil, and what ohm are the voice coils, sounds like its more of an issue with your power and ground wires than speakers it will normally play for a little bit before it shuts down due to to much of a load, I used to wire up my subs down to .5-1 ohm for db drags and they would play for atleast a song before they over heated and shut down

Can you temp. connect to a battery with a real short length of wire? 8ga is questionable for a 12' run (actually is 24' run, you add the pos and neg wire lengths together) Even thou the manual states use 8ga, the manufacture has no idea on the length of wire you will use, so they can not recommend a wire size with any accuracy.

i would defiantly say you have an issue with the pos, neg, or remote wires.... and i seriously dont think it has anything to do with how long the wires are at this point

all fixed and it was the lengh of the wires. shortened the power wire and now have 2 ohms going to it. Works great thanks for all the help

did you stick with the 8ga just wondering, I just finishing installing a jl 600w amp in my boat and had no issues at all running 15ft power cable and ground but I also used 2ga wire

did you stick with the 8ga just wondering, I just finishing installing a jl 600w amp in my boat and had no issues at all running 15ft power cable and ground but I also used 2ga wire

yeah it was 8 gauge. So its under the back seat for now. Im sick of working on it it and well see how it goes. Maybe next year Ill move it back to the cabin and get some bigger gauge wire

good to hear.
Most people don't understand wire length is the major issue with DC power. Go big or go home. ;)

yeah i gambled on the wire and it didnt work. So well see. If If I want to move it should only the ground wire be big or does both of them have to be

I would pull big wire for power and ground you can use a block and step it down to what ever size you need right before the amp that way if you ever want to run more amps you have the hard work already done, if there is any chance you will run more than one amp I would pull 0g wire then drop it down to 8 or 4 right before the amp

Both wires same AWG.

ok thanks yeah when I get back to working on it ill head to the depot and get some thick chit