Have the motors back in my boat, they are running great! One small problem, we took my stainless marine tails and made them about 80 percent dry, and then dumped the rest through dumps. Kept just enough water in the pipes to keep my rubber hoses cool. Problem is I am still getting some reversion at idle even with the changes we made. So I think I may need to make these stainless tails full dry by adding to the inner and outer pipe right thru the transom, and maybe mixing a little water at the end to keep the clamp on mufflers cool that I will probably have to run, and then dump the rest out through the water dumps. Question I have is the inner pipe 3.5 OD and the outer pipe 4.0 OD on these set ups? I believe this is the case. Lastly, if I turn the idle up to about 1050 rpm's I can get rid of almost all reversion. At 850 rpm's I have puddling in the manifolds. At the 1050 just a very small amount of moisture at the very back of the manifold. But I am afraid when I engage in gear it will drop enough R's to have the reversion get more severe. Can I live with a little bit of moisture, or should I really be looking to be 100 percent dry in that manifold at all times? If anyone has any added input or tips that would be great.

Personally I would do what you said with the tails. Shifting at 1000 rpm going to be tough on the drive and why take chances.

Rob, I would weld up the one weep hole that is in the pipe now. Then I would weld another inner stainless pipe the same diameter as the existing inner and have that go through the transom. I would also open up the end of the existing tail and introduce water on the outside of the new welded in piece and between the rubber exhaust hose. This would be dry to the tips of the pipe. This is what I was thinking would be the last resort to help your reversion problem. Sorry to hear that you are still having the reversion problem. When are you bringing that to GH? We were out on Lake Michigan last Sunday.
Jason

I was thinking something similar jason, but I think I may be better off just doing the full stainless setup like yours, and be done with it. I sent Jim a pm to get his thoughts. I know he could handle the welding no problem just need to get my hands on some stainless. I am thinking exactly like your tails only dumping a little water at the very end, and then the rest through the dumps. If I did like you suggested I don't know how I could ever get the tail out again cause it would be welded to the exhaust tip which is bolted to the transom, really no way to remove it. If I have Jim cut just behind the factory weld at the end of the tail then he can access the inner pipe by cutting the outer pipe back a little further, then slide the outer over the inner and weld away. Bingo dry to the tip. Who's boat where u on at GH? We where up at Hardy for a little blast. I just want to get this dealt with before I have a major issue on my hands.

You wouldnt weld to the tip thats bolted to the transom. You would remove and discard those tips. Then, you get some sealing rings, that are basically a trim ring, that holds a slip fit rubber gasket, in which the tailpipe would slide thru. So your risers would be solid stainless all the way to the end, you'd install them from inside the bilge, slide them thru the cutouts in the transom, and bolt on to the manifolds.

Oh I see, now I undertsand. I just found some dry stainless marine tails used on ebay. I just bought them up so this should take care of the problem. I don't want to have to worry about it. Next question, I need to remove the tips that the exhaust hoses used to attach to, and install these trim rings along with the silicone gasket. Is this corect? From the websites I have vistited, it looks like I need a 4.5 I.D trim rings and then the silicone gaskets, for my 4 inch tails. Does that sound about right?